What brand brake pads are better than OEM?

Get the proper grease for both. For example, you do not want to use anti-seize on the pins.

I've found Permatex Anti-Seize compound for the pad contact points, and Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant for the pins (and rubber boots) is a good combo. The latter doesn't swell rubber; some pin lubes apparently do.

 

Sil-Glyde is the best. Pick it up along w/ this brake grease from advance auto,

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

Also throw in their 25% coupon to get it the cheaper

 

Keep in mind there are about as many kinds of "rubber" as there are kinds of "plastic" ... it's often wise to let the manufacturer of a particular formulation of "rubber" tell you what might and might not swell it.

Rubber chemical resistance chart

-Chap

 

We put some miles on our cars so the 10k oil interval gets them in twice a year -- my independent always cleans and lubes the calipers while the wheels are off for rotation. They actually use a spray. Never any issues

 

That sounds like a spray with brakleen, pretty much pure cosmetic. There's no way they're going to do a proper brake inspection for the cost of a tire rotation.

 

Spray and lube the calipers? Do they use snake oil? There is nothing to spray or lube. Unless they are just spraying brake cleaner
on it, which isn't doing anything. They would have to remove the pads to clean them and install new brake paster on them, then remove
the slide pins, clean them, and relube them.
As Mendel Leisk said: : There's no way they're going to do a proper brake inspection for the cost of a tire rotation.

 

I always check them while rotating the tires, and never charge myself extra.

 

What? Then you are losing money!

 

Make sure to use high temp silicone grease designed for disc brakes for the pins. Axle grease will seize.

 

It bears repeating that Toyota calls out a specific, non-silicone, glycol grease thickened with lithium soap for that purpose. It's red, and they call it "rubber grease" (their more imaginative Japanese to English translators were on vacation).



You rarely have any need to buy a tube like that, because if you buy their caliper rebuild kits (which include all the rubber boots and seals and other miscellaneous bits to completely rebuild two sides, front or rear), a little packet of the correct red grease is in each kit.

I find the kits (one each, front and rear) handy to have on hand, so any time I inspect the brakes, if anything needs replacement, I've got it. Usually nothing does, so it's like the umbrella keeping the rain away.

 

They use Sil-Glyde in the Nutz About Boltz video, so I picked up a large tube of that.

The important thing is that you don't use a petroleum based grease that will break down or cause the rubber boots and seals to swell.

I even apply a small amount of Sil-Glyde to the outside of the rubber boots, then wipe off the extra to "condition" the dry rubber material. Almost like putting Armor All on rubber. The boots end up soft and pliable, instead of dry and stiff.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

One or both of the @NutzAboutBolts team were Toyota dealership mechanics IIRC.

 

Just did the brakes using Toyota brand parts. The rear brake pads were stamped Akebono.

 

You can do all of that with the specified, glycol grease too.

Indeed, that's the kind of thing the manufacturer thinks about when they specify what their rubber formulations should be greased with.

It's tempting to think that if there's a video somewhere showing X being done by someone who's a Toyota dealership mechanic, then X is a good idea, but PriusChat is also replete with examples of things Toyota dealership mechanics did that weren't.

 

I haven’t heard anyone find a mistake in the NutzAboitBolts Prius videos.

 

It IS a pretty short list I’ve noticed:

They use 20 ft/lbs torque, and use lots of anti-seize, on 3rd gen plugs. Spec is 15 with dry threads.

they pull the back seat bottom to get to the hybrid battery fan. Not necessary.

they disconnect coolant lines from throttle body when doing intake manifold cleaning. Not necessary.

a partial drain of the coolant system prior to Exhaust Gas Recirculation cooler disconnect would be a lot less messy, eliminate the need for line clamping, which is mostly fruitless anyway.

 

Perhaps not mistake but when i checked a video about egr and IM cleaning the actual passages to each cylinder were not mentioned nor cleaned. I think this was corrected afterwards but still. Even experienced mechanics are puzzled with those channels so it is no wonder. Had to explain to my mechanics the same and he said he has never seen that kind passages before.

I respect people people sharing their videos very much, pls do not get me wrong, but it is good idea to check several videos and posts and then make own conclusions

 

Good one. I’ve noticed post editing comments added to YouTubes, for this sort of thing. Something can be missed or mixed up during filming, and a simple text comment added after can clear it up.

 

I am also wondering the engine oil change. Car is nose up in jackstand and the drain hole is in the front edge of oil pan. Does it drain completely? I always level the car to get everything out. Sometimes there’s lot more coming when levelled (depending on car).

speaking of which, can Gen 3 Prius oil be changed using jack? The plastic cover can be opened with jack in place? I mean the center jacking point

 

hawk are excellent pads, mostly unknown but well known especially for big trucks... powerstop has a complete drilled and slotted kit for whole car rotors and pads, excellent setup, there will be a noticeable increase in brake power/effeciency. $285 from amazon or rockauto...