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3rd Generation Prius Accumulator / Actuator / brake problem

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by ballisticship, May 10, 2022.

  1. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Hello everyone,

    This will be long, but I’m wondering if anyone is familiar with the problems that I am having. I have searched extensively through the forums, and I have tried to research through the best of my ability.

    My first issue deals with the brake possible actuator / accumulator (I apologize I get the braking system mixed up) but I notice when I am holding the brake at a stop, there is a pulsing air sound, almost like air is escaping. I will attach the audio file (actuator) which I hope works... I added the zip files below. The only way to stop this sound is to press the brake pedal very strongly. I don’t notice any issues with braking though, the car stops without issue. I also notice the actuator will come on almost all the time during stops and stop and go traffic, once every 12 seconds give or take even when the car is at a complete stop for awhile. I also know that when the car is off and I open the door, the actuator will come on and will continue every 12 seconds for some minutes even when the car is not on. I have compared this to my friend’s prius who has the exact same 2013 model and his does not do this at all. It will come on just once when you open the door and once when you brake.

    The next issue, perhaps the most annoying to me deals with the high pitched sound that comes from the same area I believe as the brake actuator area. It’s very high frequency, the best I can describe it as ringing in the ears. If anyone who is familiar with a hearing test, the high frequency levels that they play in the headset to test your upper range hearing. Now I’m not young, and I know there is another post that talks about this issue saying it’s normal in the regenerative braking system, only young hear it, audio nav system speakers etc., but this sound continues at different high frequencies even when the brake is not being pressed or the accelerator although it does change frequencies at times. I will attach another audio file
    (high pitch) and you can hear it more pronounced when the high frequencies change at 38, 42, and 56 seconds even though it is playing through a lot of the clip (must turn up the volume to high). You can also hear it in the (actuator) file in the background. I have also compared these sounds with my friend’s prius and although there is a high pitch sound when pressing the brakes as well as in the background, it’s considerably softer and usually fades out when you let off the brakes. Mine continues at all times mostly when the car is moving and changes frequencies.

    My last issue deals with the hybrid battery. I only have 68000 miles yet I got the P0A80 code. I opened the battery up and noticed heavy corrosion on mainly the negative sides of each cell. I cleaned them all, cleaned the fan, reset the codes (original codes were P0A80, C1259, C1310) and then ran the Dr Prius app and for load testing bottom voltage, it says suspected problem block 9, which I expected anyway because that was already low when I got the code. From what I read, corrosion on the negative side is due to undercharging due to the car not going on long enough trips, or even possible parasitic draw. Is it possible that the actuator always running too often has drained the hybrid battery over time? From what I read, there is a known issue with the Prius 3rd generation accumulator/actuators, and Toyota will only fix it if it’s drawing up certain codes.

    I know this is a very long post but any input on each topic would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

    Arron
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. J2010G

    J2010G Junior Member

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    Hi Aaron. I noticed the same recycle action on my brakes but even worse the anti-skid, traction and brake lights came on the dash. I took the prius to the dealer and he quoted $2700 for a new brake assembly. Lucky for me they did not have stock. I came home and read the manual saying the brake fluid needs to be replaced every 50K miles. So I went to Walmart, got the recommended DOT3 type for $9 and did the replacement. I noticed the cycling, after turning off the car, stops after around 3 cycles. Even more important after resetting the dash warning lights by using youtube instructions, the warning lights no longer light up. So I think with your Prius at 66K miles it is worth a try for $9 cost. Good Luck. Jim
     
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  3. Mr. F

    Mr. F Active Member

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    That the lights go away (albeit temporarily) after resetting them shouldn't come as a revelation. If one is only resetting codes without figuring out what the car is trying to tell them, they should expect a recurrence shortly. The lights are not the problem—they only turn on to indicate that there is an issue. Making the lights go off by wiping codes from memory does not make the underlying problem go away.
    It should require no more than one cycle to pressurize the accumulator when the brakes are not being actively engaged (such as when the car has been turned off). An internal leak in the actuator assembly is relieving the pressure built up after each cycle, and the accumulator pump is therefore having to run again to build up that pressure. Replacement with a known good assembly is the only permanent solution.
     
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  4. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Thank you both for your replies, recommendations, and insight. The codes that popped up on my reader were the P0A80 (replace hybrid battery), C1259 (hybrid vehicle control system regenerative malfunction), and C1310 (Hybrid Vehicle System malfunction). I also had some lights pop up. I read that the later two codes dealt with basically the bad hybrid battery. I too, was guilty of erasing the code when I cleaned my terminals thinking that it was the reason the hybrid battery was low. The codes did not pop back up since and the hybrid battery works again although, It's only about 38% life per the Dr Prius app (after using the prolong charger/discharger). I was hoping that a code would pop up with the actuator, but unfortunately no code has ever popped up. It's unfortunate I've been reading a lot of problems with the 3rd generation Prius actuator, and am not sure if I should look into just paying for it to get replaced or wait for some code to pop up which might never happen..
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    It is very unlikely the brake booster system caused a failing high voltage battery. It is possible that corrosion is a part of the battery problem although 8 to 10 years life in a hot climate is pretty normal.

    The brake booster/actuator flaw has been known for years. Toyota was replacing them free on gen3s for many years if the system brought up the proper codes. Some vehicles that are under 150,000 miles and are less than ten years from date of first use are still eligible for a new brake booster system from the dealer. Codes are C1391, C1252, C1256, or C1253. Do not clear brake codes, allow the dealer to see them.

    As Mr F stated, a reset or a brake flush is only a temporary fix. Some codes take repetition several times to set again. The codes are usually a warning its taking too long to build hydraulic pressure in these elaborate brake by wire systems. The brake booster can be dangerous when it completely fails to build up hydraulic pressure or when it can not direct the pressure properly. You can suddenly get a very hard pedal with increased stopping distance when brake booster automatic functions are lost.

    While I have a Prius v wagon which is covered by another program, I have located and attached one of the standard gen3 Prius program notifications. It is kind of disappointing that so many gen3 members that jump all over egr cleaning have failed to add input on this thread for two weeks.
     

    Attached Files:

    #5 rjparker, May 26, 2022
    Last edited: May 26, 2022
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  6. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Thank you rjparker, it’s good to know that the brake booster would probably not cause a problem in the hybrid battery. I was surprised that the car would get a bad traction battery at 68k miles and mileage per gallon did not show any sign, but it is true, that it’s a hot climate here. I was also surprised the prolong charger/discharger did not bring as much life to the failing battery as I had hoped. And that thing was not cheap. I was planning on swapping some cells but at 38 percent life, it’s probably better just to replace the whole thing..

    I wrote my previous post before your reply, but it had to be reviewed first by moderators. Unfortunately the codes you mentioned does not show in my Prius (thank you for the attachment), I only have the symptoms pointing to the break booster system, and thus I have read from many posts how Toyota will not pay for the servicing if these codes do not actually show up. My car is well under the 150k and still barely within the 10 years but I may be stuck with having to just buy a new brake booster system as well as hybrid battery… I bought this car used last year in March and although I don’t believe it was sold to me with these problems (these symptoms didn’t exist until recently) I’m pretty disappointed with all these things that are happening and feel I probably should have just gone with a gas car despite the rise in gas prices..
     
  7. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Most likely the brake booster is going bad, its just not taking a very long time yet. Most people see this prior to the codes.
     
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  8. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Thank you for your reply rjparker, do you know if it's dangerous driving around until the code pops up? I don't want to be endangering my life, my family's, or someone else's life on the road if suddenly it stops working. I'll try calling my local Toyota to see if they can do anything about it. Thank you
     
  9. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I would drive it since you still qualify for a replacement until ten years from first use. Normally the codes come up before it fails. I would be careful but it is not like you are in Texas doing 85 on SH130. It might be useful to ask a dealer when the expiration date will come.
     
    #9 rjparker, May 28, 2022
    Last edited: May 28, 2022
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  10. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Thank you for your reply. I saw that date of first sale was in early December so there's still a few more months time left until 10 years. I do hope the code shows up while I'm not in a dangerous situation. Ah the fastest I go here on the freeway is 60 here but I always try to drive defensively. I called up someone I dealt with before at Toyota and left a message and will see what they say.
     
  11. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Even though it is brake by wire, under complete failure the brake booster uses a solenoid system to directly connect the pedal to the hydraulics. The dash will light up making it obvious. So even with a total failure you have some brakes. The emergency brake is cable operated to the rear brakes and in theory could help a little. However the hydraulic brake power boost and regen braking go away, making the normal braking much harder. The needed codes don't all wait for total failure, my understanding is the hydraulic pump has to run for a couple of minutes to set one of the most common failure modes.

    Another consideration is parts availability. Some members have reported long delays. In most cases Toyota covers a rental if the repair is part of their customer support program.
     
    #11 rjparker, May 28, 2022
    Last edited: May 28, 2022
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  12. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Thank you for that great explanation, as long as some braking exists, albeit harder, that is good to know. I think back to those times where there were runaway stops for the large trucks in case they lost their complete braking capability on the downhills; good to know that won't be the case.

    I am not sure if the codes will pop, but I hope they do. This condition in my car has been going on for some months now, and has not been getting worse from what I see, and sometimes even goes away in some moments. Actuator keeps coming on at always around 12 seconds repeatedly, no less than that, unless I brake many times in a row. Good to know about the parts availability, although I do have an old 91 Camry without AC that I've been driving around when my Prius was being charged.

    Thank you again for all of your replies and knowledge rjparker. And also the other two who initially replied. When I didn't get a reply for some days, I thought I had to just figure out everything on my own.
     
  13. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Update. So a couple codes finally popped up C1253 C1256 and P0A80 but I guess the C1253 and C1256 disappeared but was stored in the memory since the ABS traction lights went away. I know the bad hybrid battery is one code and the other for the brake booster. I took it in to Toyota, and they said my accumulator is the problem, which is separate from the brake booster assembly covered under the program. They will change out the brake booster but it will cost almost $2000 for the accumulator and close to $4000 for the hybrid battery. So I guess I will be taking the car back after and trying to work on fixing the accumulator and battery on my own. Thank you to everyone who replied.
     
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  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    all the best!(y)
     
  15. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Call Toyota Corporate on the Brake Booster. I don't think that is right.

    The hybrid battery is another story, but I would check with projectlithium.com ($2,170) and newpriusbatteries.com ($1,789) for just as good new cells for less. Might require finding an independent hybrid shop for installation.
     
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  16. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Thank you for your reply, I wanted to try to "educate" myself before calling corporate but it's very confusing and probably even more so across the different generations of Prius. The dealership person was nice and friendly and didn't charge me for the diagnosis. However, they ended up not doing the brake booster pump change either because my hybrid battery was too weak, which is needed to change out the brake booster. So he told me to get the hybrid battery changed out, accumulator changed out, and then bring it back before October when the program expires. I'm not a car person, all this accumulator separate from the brake booster and all this is too confusing. I'll try calling corporate but without a fundamental clear understanding how they all work together, I probably won't get far.
     
  17. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    If you are driving the car the hybrid battery is good enough to do the brake booster. You are not expected to know every buzz word and technical detail. Realize the dealer is living off of service these days. They make much more when you pay versus Toyota Corp. Most service advisors are on commission.

    Just call corporate with your vin and any paperwork the dealer provided. And the codes they read. Be sure to tell them you are under 150k miles and less than ten years from first use. Tell them you understood the brake booster pump and the brake master cylinder should be covered.

    The battery is your problem after eight years or 100k miles, whichever came first.

    9486F5EB-94DA-4997-B2D2-B0D84E3DA532.jpeg
     
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  18. ballisticship

    ballisticship New Member

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    Thank you for this, I really appreciate it. I will call them tomorrow. I understand about the hybrid battery also which falls on me. I will reply once I get ahold of them and let you know what they say.