Catalytic Converter Protector

Not yet, but I'm toying with it. Gen 2 are the most lucrative for cat thieves. Each generation since has used less rare metal, so is less tempting. But I still might get one. At the shop where I work part time we put them on all the Gen 2s that come in on trade or auction before selling them. In my first two weeks I've replaced one stolen cat and installed a shield on that car plus putting them on two or three other Gen 2s.

 

We installed a Miller Stainless Steel cat shield last year and have had no issues. The kit included Torx style anti-theft security bolts and bit as well as spacers to alleviate scraping the frame. Rather than putz around under jack stands, I found a local garage/repair shop that popped it on for $50. When properly installed, there are no rattles or other foibles.

The main purpose is to make your cat converter far less desirable a target, and lazy-a$$, ne'er do well, dirtbag would-be thieves will move on. A decal/window sticker to that effect also helps.

 

I installed the Cap City Muffler shield on our Prime about a year and a half ago (see post #252):

What did you do to your Prime today? | Page 13 | PriusChat

No issues with the install and no rattles either .

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

I ordered the Miller Cat Shield and spoke to Peter in Sacramento. He said yes his can be installed on my 2021 Prime! He also recommended adding the Cat Strap and alarm (Ohio) so I ordered those too. Karl Malone Toyota Dealership here said they’ll install everything so I’m feeling a lot better about all this cat thieving crap! Thanks to all of you for the lead!

 

I ordered the Miller Cat stainless shield for my 2018 PP. Had it installed by a local authorized Miller Cat installer for $170 out the door.

 

I installed a motion alarm on my prime the first month I got it. It's gone off several times, and the car is parked on my driveway. This last weekend, I installed a cheap CAT shield by CarAmore. Just in-case someone is daring enough to try to cut the CAT out of my car with the alarm screaming and lights flashing at them.
Those aluminum cross braces are surprisingly soft. I bolted them up with M5x12mm security Torx with lock ring washers. If I would do it again; I would go with M4x12mm instead. Several holes I drilled was off by about 0.15mm - so I had to pull the shield down to align the 8 bolts before buttoning them up. The M5 screws fit snugly into the pre-drilled holes; there was no room for slight deviations. That's why I would step down to M4; so you'll have some wiggle room - if you don't get the holes in the exact spots.
It actually took me more time to gather all my tools, jack up the car, block the wheels - than it took to install the shield myself. A second person to check alignment on the far end of the shield, would've been helpful. I was able to get it almost dead center, rear shield is about 1mm towards the passenger side. There seems to be at least an inch clearance between the shield and the secondary CAT, at it's widest point. No rubbing or rattles. The kit came with rivets, which I declined to use - because I'm in a CARB state and an uptight inspector my want to eyeball the CAT. Keeping the bit taped inside my car, in case it needs to be removed.

Total cost was $65 plus my labor. Motion alarm was $15 and shield was less than $50.

Hope this helps anyone thinking about installing a CAT shield; but IMHO - you also need a motion alarm. Otherwise these thieves can simply go about their business; if there's nothing drawing attention to the car they are under. Hint: If a person has a reciprocating saw in their hand, they are not fixing the car - They are STEALING something.

 

Great info, thx. Do you have link to motion alarm?

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I used this: Car Motorcycle Bike Scooter Alarm System Anti-theft Remote Control Engine Start | eBay
Instead of using the wimpy siren; I went to a 12vdc relay and attached to the hazard lamp & horn relays. I researched an OEM Toyota motion switch; but I think the part alone was $150-$200. That would've eliminated the secondary fob.

If you don't what to do a bunch or wiring, you can use this : Loud 113dB Wireless Anti-Theft Vibration Motorcycle Alarm Bike Security Remote | eBay Quick and easy, but you'll have to change batteries every quarter or semi-annually.

 

Thank you. Where do end up placing the device?

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I wouldn't call them "people." They are very violent criminal gangs who work in large teams, carrying baseball bats and guns. If you ever run into them, do not confront them or even look at them.

 

Yikes!


Btw, I'm sick and tired of hearing people complaining how hard, and how long it takes, to work on cars.
Below is a quick 1min video showing how a catalytic convertor on a Honda can be removed in under 1 min.
WT-FREAK?
Note, with some Honda cars, the bolts holding the cat pipe to the exhaust manifold are easy to get to.

And, in "fantasy world - Southern Calf", things like mega-rusted exhaust bolts don't exist.
Btw, in real-life "fantasy world - Southern Calf" is a freaking desert! (with a lot of human tech and intervention to make it livable)
Hence, why people in SoCal often ask "??WTH is rust??". Well, stop living in the freaking desert, and you'll find out.

Code:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcE1_r51FmU

Brazen catalytic converter theft caught on camera in Stockton
Jan 11, 2022ABC10

 

Must be bolt-on at both ends of the CAT?? Only sounds like about 2 bolts being spun loose, so fast.

 

I've got a stainless steel MIller Cat protector, prominently placed decals, and try to be discerning as to where i park.but geeeze, they have to crack down on scrap metal dealers that accept the converters. Why the heck is that so difficult?!?

 

It may depend on the model and year of the Honda?
Also, some thieves use an exhaust pipe cutter, since it's "silent".
For a Honda, I've seen videos of thieves using a sawsall in the back of the cat.

Code:

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-GR18210BK-10-Inch-Chain-Cutter/dp/B0015SBWXK

Grip-On 18210BK 10-Inch Chain Pipe Cutter
Price: $80.50

 

I got the same thing.
I ordered via Amazon, since it was easier.

I worry most with long-term parking lots/areas.
Like any commuter lot: Train, Subway, "Boston T", etc.
Or, concerts, sports games, events, etc...

 

Here is my dual use catalytic convertor theft deterrent device. It also doubles as a brace/chassis stiffener. And you can feel the difference. The vehicle both feels heavier (this thing is like 20 - 30 lbs) and stiffer into turns and such.

Looks like 1/4 inch steel. So pretty tough to grind through in a pinch. But its bolted on which still is a deterrent. But Ill take it.

It is a Toyota OEM TRD part.

 

Maybe down the road you can sub some more difficult bolts. McMaster Carr is one good source, in the States.

still, seeing that they hopefully just move on.

 

Really? You're that sensitive?
But then, I can hardly get mine to accelerate when I have 40 lbs of groceries in the back, so anything is possible...

Back on topic: Why aren't the police trying to crack down on this trade of stolen Cats?
They have to be sold somewhere?
I just read about some thief caught with hundreds of sawed off cat converters.
Who is buying and recycling these expensive things?
The recycle businesses have to know most of what they process are stolen items.

 

I have aftermarket wheels that are a bit more performance orientated than the OEM wheels. The Prime is so good that you can do these inefficient mods and still get good mileage.

Yea... the Prius is a solid platform. The engine is underpowered, but that isn't important when it comes to handling. The GEN 4 is the first generation of Prius sold with rear double wishbone independent suspension. A real needed upgrade from past Prius models that featured a torsion beam.

So yes! Handling is greatly improved! And very much needed... If the Prius did not include handling/suspension upgrade, I would have went for a Tesla or whatever vehicle looked decently equipped with good MPG.

The Prime's weak points are just the small sized disc breaks and obvious underpowered engine. But pound for pound, engine str aside, it is a great platform and can take some corners at speed with the right driver.

You can change out the wheels, suspension, and add bracing and still get great fuel economy. After all older vehicle's are all underpowered by today's standards but what set them apart were the great handling and availability of good parts.