PROBLEM Notification, No Engine Start

how much gas do you have in there? It needs at least 3 gallons for it to register on your gas meter.

since you've done module replacements before, I'm sure you should know all the steps to reassemble the battery. Check your 12v make sure it's got enough charge.

 

Have you bolted down the battery to the car body? It needs to be grounded. Have you plugged back the plugs for the battery ecu from the car? 3 sets of wires

I would disconnect the 12v battery again, just to reset the system and try starting the car after that

 

what's the 12v battery voltage reading?

You've covered the basics on battery installation. Unless there is something else wrong, the battery installation is very straight forward.

There are codes that will give you a better idea where to look. You just need a better code reader to get them.

 

Which obd2 reader are you using?

Have you revisited your recent NPB install to see if you missed a step?

 

Letting a car sit for 2 years, you could potentially have rodent damage, chewing through some wires. Have you had a good look around to see if there is any evidence of wire damage? You can remove the glove compartment and see if any of the wires have damage.

 

Just to clarify, the engine never attempted to start or sounded like it was turning over and 'running' for 10 seconds?

Don't know much about that obd2 reader, or if it is hybrid compatible.

If you haven't cleaned the MAF sensor lately, then you should do that next. It may not help now, but could be a issue later.

 

I have had occasion where the interlock switch (the orange disconnect) on the battery didn't have a good connection. Maybe can try removing that a couple times and see if things change.

 

Just a thought, you did not remove the brake control power supply unit next to the 12v battery correct?

 

Well the easily guessed problems have been covered. Other than trying another orange interlock switch from another car, your next step would need to read the code to point you to the right direction

 

Just as a quick sanity check on the code reader you're using, you could go click that interlock switch open, and then check with the code reader again to see if it shows the corresponding P0A0D code.

 

As strange as this may sound, these things are not perfect. I have had 2 of them work in 1 car but not another. Fuse is good, just don't have an explanation.

 

In #17 I was suggesting deliberately opening the interlock switch, just as a way to check whether the code reader correctly retrieves the "hey, your interlock is open" code. That pretty much ought to work, whether or not there is also some odd problem when the switch is closed.

The same technique can be used by going and unplugging various other things that the HV ECU will report codes for, and then checking whether the scan tool sees those codes. I happened to suggest the interlock because it was just talked about, the OP obviously knows where it is, and I remember what code you get when it's open.