Tire Sidewall blown after psi raised to 34

Switched from MXM4 to Cross Climate2, which is better in general to me, if you live in long cold season like here in IN. It has great treads for wet and snow, also makes less noise and braking distance.
At first, I thougt mpg went down but later discovered that it's caused by smt else. Nowadays getting 48-50 mpg
Finally, a bit cheaper than MXM4, mine had a side crack, too

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From the nomenclature I'm accustomed to, including the link you posted, do note that M+S tires are a proper subset of All-Season tires. M+S tires are All-Seasons, but not all All-Seasons are M+S.

Note also that the M+S rating is not a true winter or snow rating. For true winter or snow tires, get the Mountain/Snowflake rating. Some of these are also rated as "all weather", which must not be confused with "All Season".

So far, Google is showing me only tire manufacturers that recommend it, not any states that require it. So please show us some confirmation of your claim, or provide better key phrases to search.

 

After 40k miles, I still have about 8/32" of tread left on my Yokohama Avid Ascend GTs. They are GREAT in the rain, too.

 

I've been using the Falken ZE950 on my 2007 Touring for almost 5 years. They've been great and I have no complaints. I replaced the fronts about a year ago or so, because I don't rotate tires. I'm sitting at 52.4 mpg on that car right now with about 600+ miles since it's been reset. Originally bought them because I had a tire fail a couple months after I bought the car and Pep Boys was the only place open at the time and the ZE950 was what they had available. It's worked out pretty well. I don't think Pep Boys stocks them anymore, but your exact replacement tire can be purchased/ordered from Walmart for about $105 per tire. Perhaps they can get them quick or have them in stock for installation.

Falken Ziex ZE950 A/S 215/45R17 91W XL AS High Performance Tire - Walmart.com

 

Yup you can get some good ones. A lot of the times people like me will walk in and buy a matching set of tires and chunk the half way good ones just to get a matching set. Or for some other reason they will replace tires that are still probably still good just because they want all new. I found a sweet deal on some Michelins for my Sequoia and sold the tire shop my old tires that were probably 60% life left. Just didn't need the money enough to keep the old tires.

 

What did you get for those?

 

what about your gas mileage?

 

Unchanged after a few break in miles. I get about 55-60 mpg on the interstate and average about 5.5 m/kWh in town.

Noise is no worse, traction better. Way better tires than the OEM.

I replaced the originals at 5/32" because were were going to go to Colorado and were likely to be in the snow. The car only had 22k miles on it. So I have more tire left atfer 40k miles than I did after 22k on the originals.

 

I always buy only premium tires. Goodyear, Michelin, Continental, Bridgestone. The ride comfort, handling, safety, grip till the 2/32" legal limit thread are good. They often last longer, check the treadwear rating. I avoid any ECO or low rolling resistance tires, they are usually not comfortable and no grip. Just regular all seasons in the South or all seasons with 3PMSF symbol for icy area.

 

2/32" of tread, while legal, isn't really good enough here in the Western Washington Rain Zone. Such thin treads should exile themselves to drier climate zones.

 

I would recommend replacing the whole set ASAP (…if not sooner!) From your picture, I would guess the tyre suffered some damage (kerb-strike, pot-hole). The "Do Not Exceed Pressure" can be found on the side of the tyre, ignore this at your peril. When it comes down to it, the tyres are the last thing between you and the road so IMNSHO don't skimp when it comes to the rubber!!! (You know it makes sense!)

 

It is good enough and we should just use the whole usability of the tires. Going 4/32 is a waste of money and 30% of the expected lifespan of the tires is discharged. The change of the braking distance is so slow and we always adjust how we react and brake.

As you can see, between 6/32-2/32 is when the dry grip and noise level is at a minimum. New tires are usually noisier, have more rolling resistance, and are less handling performance in dry conditions. In wet, the difference is not that dramatic either, it very gradual and we are not of sudden get a 1 or 2 m longer stopping distance. What is the point of driving a green Prius but wasting resources and energy on tires.

 

$100 for 5. Three different brands and one tire was the 18-year-old spare.
Swapped to Michelin LTX M/S 2's for $300 and I forgot the mention all 5 of them were off a brand new jeep so maybe 40 miles on the tires ($400 purchase from the dealership sold wheels for $100). Savings of $900 on new tires and somebody wanted the old tires for $20 ea so not bad.
You could probably do something like this with the Prius as well maybe Prius new take-off wheels. They are kind of rare/unpopular around here so i don't see them often though. Mostly NTOs from jeeps/trucks/ etc...

 

Huh?

Those video comments were about one company's initiative of what they believe should be the standard for the future, not a description of what we have right now. Yes, we'd like to have wet traction stay good to the end of the legal tread life, for environmental and cost efficiency reasons, but those are not the only considerations. Personal safety is also a major consideration for most of us, but is given scant attention in this clip. Their 25-35% longer stopping distances on worn tires are not insignificant.

I also must note how uniform, rut-free, oil-drip-free, and un-glazed their track's wet stopping zone is. I wish my area's roads and intersection approaches were that nice, but they most definitely are not.

As for stopping distances changing slowly as the tires wear, allowing you to adjust you how react and brake, I don't see the relevance for those of us who drive more than one vehicle but don't have auto-calibrated reflexes to each different case. Nor how it applies to weather and road surface conditions that display major changes in an instant. Nor how the forces of nature that occasionally throw sudden unforeseen emergencies into the situation give a sh*t about any of that.

There are many places dry enough that drivers can reasonably run down to the legal minimum much of the year. My wetter climate zone is not one of those places.

 

Even if I tried to ride tires down to the legal limit, I often have to buy a set of new tires with some usable tread still left on them.

1. unrepairable puncture in one tire... I am forced to buy at least two tires wasting one good tire, but more often than not, with a special discount, buying a set of 4 tires is cheaper than just buying two. In this case, I am wasting 3 good tires.
   
2. uneven wear on some tires... even with regular rotation, it does happen especially on older cars.
3. Some vehicle requires all four tires changed at a time. If I have one bad tire that needs to be replaced, I am always throwing away 3 good tires.

Come to think of it, I can't remember the last time I have actually driven a set of 4 tires from brand new to all the way down to a legal limit. It just does not happen often.

 

We excluded accident and unpredictable wear. I talked about majority of us who are lucky enough driving without accident, lemon tires, etc.
Only front tires has to be twin, the rear does not really matter if they are 2 or 3mm difference in treadwear.
My point is, use it till 2mm is not bad and still grip on wet just fine. The legal 1.6mm is still not violated but 3mm replacement is just bad campaign by capitalist tires makers

 

If you never had accidental tire damage or unpredicted tire wear, then consider yourself very lucky. While I agree with you on the point that the tires should last all the way to legal limit tread depth and I certainly try to get the most out of what I paid for, I am almost never that lucky to have all 4 tires wear down all the way to the legal limit.

Just a question. I have done two tires replacement when only one tire was damaged and unrepairable. If I take your advice, and if I have one rear tire damaged say with half of the tread left on all the tires, then what would you suggest to do when it comes to doing the tire rotation? If I change either just one on the rear, or change both on the rear, I am never going to get even wear on all four tires anymore. At some point, I will have to replace three older tires before the end of the life for the one new one. But... it will be cheaper to replace all four tires at that point than replace three individual tires.

 

Because of all that, I'd never do anything other than all four replacement.