What are the list of tools and parts for a 2018 Toyota Prius Prime Oil/filter change?

1) It depends. I can't speak for the 2018 Prime but Toyota swapped the cartridge filter for the canister late in the 2017 model year for my Prius. I have the cartridge on mine. Someone else on here can tell you which one you have.

2) This depends on which type of filter you have. There are aftermarket filter wrenches that fit. Mine is 64mm for the cartridge filter housing.

3) Yes and Yes. Due to the infrequent oil changes (twice a year for me), I just buy my parts at my Toyota dealer, but others on here buy from other on-line retailers.

4) Nothing more than the appropriate wrenches and something to collect the drained oil.

 

Here is the thread you need to read.
Official 2020 Toyota Prius Prime oil-change instructions | PriusChat
As pointed out the PP changed from paper type (i.e. cartridge) to metal type (i.e. canister aka spin-on) in late 2017. If your PP is 2018, it is safe to assume you need part# 90915-YZZF2 (metal).

 

In the oil filter area of the auto parts store, they have a book hanging from a wire or chain that lists air filters and oil filters. It's a simple matter of looking for your brand, model, and year and the book will tell you the right filter by brand. Pick the brand you want, and grab the filter if they have it. If they don't have it, pick another brand.

I prefer strap wrenches for canister filters.

As already said, you have a canister filter. The gasket is part of the filter. Drain plug gasket replacement is specified in the instructions. Some people re-use them. I think that's an unnecessary risk given how cheap they are compared to a new engine.

I like to remove the whole splash shield rather than just the little door over the filter and drain. That gives me a good view for checking the CV boots and other stuff down there. I use a paint can opener on the plastic rivets and rinse the sand out of them while I have them out so they last longer. (helpful tip from @Mendel Leisk ) You'll also need a 10mm socket for some screws at the front of the shield. I think the drain plug is 14mm.

 

Around 1990 I bought one of these oil filter sockets for a Honda Hurricane (motorcycle). At the time Honda was using a much larger oil filter for automotive application. But within maybe a decade they switched automotive spec over to the motorcycle size. I had one of both, but now the old automotive size socket is redundant. Anyway:

It's heavy gauge stamped steel, 14-fluite, nominally 64 mm inside face-to-face, and pretty much bullet-proof.

No need or point to the extended sidewall with slots for stiffeners, at least as far as I can see. Unless you want to have a socket that's proprietary, can only be used on one filter style.

I believe this is the latest part number for that, and it would be readily available for purchase at any Honda dealership parts department:

07AAA-PLCA100

It may be up around $30 USD, but worth it. Fits Honda, Toyota and Mazda in my experience.

A little hand-driver for sockets is handy for those. I've had one in a US Amazon basket forever, but just opted to take a spare 3" ratchet extension and wrap some friction tape on it, done:



As @jerrymildred says, there's no rubber gaskets for 2018, it's just a simple spin-on filter. You should change the drain bolt washer though.

Tools I use:

Smallish flat-blade screw driver
Paint can pry tool
Regular 3/8" ratchet wrench (sometimes)
Oil filter socket
14 mm socket (drain bolt)
10 mm socket (plastic shield bolts/screws)
Long-handled 1/2" ratchet wrench with 1/2" to 3/8" reducer (good for bolts that need "persuasion")
3/8" drive torque wrench
Oil catch system of some sort
Graduated oil dispensiing pitcher (roughly 6 litre capacity. I need this mainly cus I'm using bulk oil, but it's handy.)
Gloves/rags
3/8" torque wrench

 

yes it is.

Yeah I take off the full shield, with every oil change, on our 3rd gen. Benefits are better access, and you can do other checks, like the CV boot condition, and just a general look for leaks. Also: taking it off completely, you get very familiar with it, and learn to take finesse the fasteners when removing them, and wash them clean of grit (which will jam them, cause them to break). Put a drop or two of oil on the threads of any steel bolts too, while they're out.

I've had the shield off on ours maybe 25 times now (2 oil changes each year, and various more times), and just recently noticed a broken jaw or two on some of the plastic fasteners. I ordered a complete new set, and just replace them as needed.

 

Yeah, what I understood is that Toyota wanted to be environmentally friendly reducing metal waste by using the paper-type cartridge filter on Prius. I believe it started in Gen3... Then sometime around 2017, there have been enough problems with cartridge housing not properly sealed with the o-ring twisted. So they returned to the old spin-on style.

 

Yup. Gen 2 was spin on, Gen 3 was cartridge and Gen 4 started cartridge. They added improved instructions on the filter package for the paper filter right around the time the newer Gen 4s went back to the spin on. Either the O-ring would climb out of its groove if the owner/tech didn't get it oiled well enough prior to assembly or they would put it up against the flange rather than in the groove. The spin on filter greatly reduced the required knowledge and skill.

 

Great job doing your own oil changes....I encourage everybody I know to do the same! Saves a lot of money AND you know it's being done right.
But be careful....next thing you know you'll be servicing your transmission, radiator, brakes, differentials, and throttle body and MAF sensor!!!

 

There's been at least one report here: owner doing first oil change after dealership service (often the "free" intitial services), took the cap off the permanent housing style oil filter, and found NOTHING in there.

When some something can happen, it will happen.

FWIW, I've caught myself, just about to put the cap on, without a new filter.

 

Wow, I've never heard of that! The dealership did reinsert the plastic oil filter housing so tight in my daughter's 2012 Sienna that it broke it. (Thankfully it didn't leak.) I've replaced it with a metal one and told her to only let me do her oil changes from now on.

Probably my stupidest thing I've done while doing oil changes is replacing the spin-on canister in my 1989 Chevy Z-24. Got the job all done, drove it back off the ramps and noticed ALL the oil was coming out on my driveway. Turned out when I removed the old filter, the gasket was still stuck on the car so when I put the new one on it had two so didn't seal. Lots of kitty litter to clean up the oil.

 

Yeah they always say to wipe the machined surface the oil filter mates against.

 

I agree with Mendel, that the Honda filter wrench is the strongest and is the best value at about half the price of the Toyota SST.

You can get it on Amazon, too.