OEM Traction Battery Dead After 3 Years?!?!

Definitely need the sub-code of the error codes... In meantime have a look at the large white plug that only connects 4 wires near and slight towards back of car from the hybrid cooling fan. Sometimes that plug has corrosion and you get bad voltage reading error code for cooling fan. But again, without knowing subcodes you're playing a bit of a guessing game here.

 

T = 2018. The manufacture date is 4 Jun 2018.

That could very well be your problem or at least part of your problem. A good illustration of why a torque wrench should be used.

 

Occam's razor

 

I've found the lowest clutch setting on my screwdriver guns is near identical to the torque on those bus bar nuts... And then I double check them all with a mini-socket wrench because there's 56 nuts so it's really easy to overlook one...

 

It was the case bolts though.

 

OP stated:

I will say this, the car/battery hasn't given me any CEL/Red Triangles yet, but its practically un-drivable. Any time the car is in, what I'm calling, a "high energy state" (driving up a large hill, going 80 MPH on the interstate, etc), and the traction battery state of charge is low (two bars or less on the multifunction display) the car will slowly loose speed until its almost dangerous, like 35 MPH on the interstate.

I'm going to throw it out there. I don't think you have a HV battery problem. I think you have something else going on with the car. Find someone in your area that you could perhaps swap batteries with to test?

But if your car is at 2 bars while driving on the highway, there is a problem with the car. The engine should be supplying the power and the battery should effectively be on a float charge/discharge. You have an issue where the battery is trying to make up for a deficiency in the engine (or some type of drag) and draining itself. Once it gets to 2 bars it's discharge control limits are reduced significantly, so that's why you're seeing those symptoms.

Same thing happens if someone is sitting idle with the AC blasting and then tries to drive away while the battery is at 2 bars. The car acts like a dog until it charges the battery a bit.

 

When swapping with a new Toyota pack, the main HV cables still need to be attached to the bus bar and relay, along with the HV cables going to the car. If these are not torqued enough the connection can oxidize, building up resistance over time until the connection starts to overheat. I don't think this is what's causing the issue, but would be simple to inspect once you have the cover off.

 

Get a mini vci and techstream…

 

Step One
Get Dr Prius data

 

You've got a 2006 Prius with 220,000+ miles. Might you just consider off loading it and buying something else? I mean, it sounds like it's had a good life.

Here's a thought. I just got offered $14,500 for my 2016 Prius C w/61,000 miles. That's a big "up" from $7,800 just 2 years ago. Granted each and every used car market is different. So your prices may vary, but - fix that thing and sell it. At least I would.

Either way, good luck with whatever you choose.

 

Yes one could do that . Then I'm part of the Bullshiet. Uhh no. This is the whole problem now. It's pure ignorant to me. But like most things going on now. Trifiling..200k daily driver is worth 2K and that probably pushing it . Period. Because that's what ignorance and greed bring to light . No thanks. I've done ok not to have to participate.

SM-A715F ?

 

I now read these messages instead of the daily brain teaser in the newspaper.

 

i put them through google translate

 

+1

What does match is a broken piston skirt. I have seen this on a few Prius. The engines will still run smoothly with the broken piston. It does produce enough of a knock that the variable valve timing get retarded to the point of reduced engine power. The engine can't make enough power to maintain freeway speeds and battery charge. The Prius will drive normally with a fully charged battery because the battery is making up for the loss of engine power. That is short lived because any battery will get run down quickly.

A broken piston will not necessarily produce trouble codes.

The check to confirm a broken piston skirt is to remove the oil pan. That's a couple of hours of DIY work.

 

Can you generally find the evidence by removing the stamped lower oil pan, or only by removing the whole cast one?

 

My Camry I could see above the girdle reasonably well Priusthat girdle shrinks and shifts seeing the two on right maybe challenging.

 

I also purchased a brand new battery ($1650) a few years ago directly from a local dealer and installed myself. I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure the battery comes with a 5 year warranty, and 10 years if installed by the dealer. The dealer you purchased from (or really any dealer) should be able to get you a new one for free.

Also, miles should have very little impact. I'm in the opposite boat. Only have 38k on an '06 when it needed replaced in 2018.

 

Just going from memory of what I've read here: with Toyota USA think it's 3 years warranty if dealership installed, one year if DIY.. Not sure if there's a "miles" element.

 

I would suggest if a new battery solved the problem the op would have said something more since December.

 

This is the first time I've read of a brand new OEM only lasting a few years. Are you sure it's not some other problem? What are your error codes. As for warranty Mendel mentions it above this post.