Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Finished, thank you so much for all the help. It was a pain to put the prius in maintenance mode as while doing the procedure there is no indication on the display that the car is in maintenance mode. I found out later that the indicator of maintenance mode is the car icon with exclamation mark. I bled the system, topped off the coolant reservoir, checked the oil a couple of times and topped that off as well. Everything seem to be working fine, car couldnt move right now though as the brakes are frozen, the fact that it had been parked for several months didnt help especially with all the rain we had this year. Tomorrow's agenda is to service the brake system, a much needed wash and detail.

It took a few seconds for the car to shrug off that rattle that most 3rd gen prius' are known for, after that it has been smooth, just a very slight rattle at higher RPM, I have to find the source of that noise as the motor itself is very smooth and quiet.

The wires coming out of the temp sensor seem to be squished between the EGR cooler to air intake pipe, I need to figure out a solution for that as over time it may cause a short (may be its my OCD).

 

THE FULL SWAP! ANYONE?
of those who have got a gen 4 intake exhaust manifold EGR cooler and exhaust pipe I have questions.

1. is the car quieter as I see gen 4 and they are almost silent while mine (gen3 with gen4 engine) is noisy as I suspect the gen 3 intake and exhaust aren't the best matchup, but work.

2.Do you get better MPG with the complete swap?

3.two things.

A. how much play does your car have once in park, mine about 4 to five inches normal???

B. is it just me or does everyone have a metallic popcorn sound coming from the transmission bell housing? I replaced the damper so its not that.

SIDE NOTE

I have a friend who swaps engines on Prius gen 3 exclusively and expressed to me that he has not seen a gen 4 come in for a head gasket.

 

Speaks volumes.

 

That's really wonderful I guess about the Gen 4 engine I don't really know what they've done it's still a ZZ engine and I've had those since the 1zz. I mean it seems to me all these head gasket problems are creeping up in the 230 plus range generally speaking and by then in my mind Toyota's completely out of the game you're over 150,000 mi and those are just the chances you take with any car even though my Corolla with the 1ZZ went 500,000 mi with none of the apparent problems most of the Priuses won't make 240 or a lot of them won't it's just the price you pay so putting in a rebuilt or a low mileage and taking that to the 230 240. It seems reasonably worth it but if you're paying retail for all this and going to wind up spending five or six grand on the car and it's certainly makes me think a lot of other things The 13 is the only car I've ever lost on to me that says something to myself The only car only vehicle I've ever lost on is the 13 Toyota Prius I even have a 2010 here one of the first Gen 3's must have slip through quality control or something because it's up in the 270 range and has it never made a hiccup just luck it's my wife's car I didn't want to buy it in the first place The only reason it was purchased because it's red it's a woman thing

SM-A715F ?

 

That sound like a great sign news...especially since the gen 4's have been out there since the 2016 model year now. Still might be a little early in terms of years to make a definitive blessing on these engines though.

 

Also a testament to how royally they eff'd up with 3rd gen and v.

 

No doubt! including our Prius v ( head gasket ). And our 2010 liftback consumed oil.

That's part of the reason I went with a used Prius C for our daughter after the 2010 liftback was totaled in an accident over the summer. Just not willing to put up with the Gen3 crap anymore! Well...until the Prius v bites the dust, that is.

 

Now that the car has been running for a while I ask those that have been on the road with this swap do you have any concerns?
For me
1.the wires on top of the engine had a clip to hold them on the gen 3 engine for for the the gen 4 no clips. anyone come up with a fix for this?

2. What I call the Medusa of hoses there are a bunch of them going to the EGR does not seem normal with the upgrade I am afraid after long mileage the will rub a hole into each other but time will tell.

 

Man you've seen the Yaris in other markets right they've got some three plus hundred horsepower engines in those things based on one NZ I believe I really want to try a Prius c that's still one NZ if I'm not mistake seems like it would be a nice little car coming from a Gin 2 09 to a c

 

Hello all, I'm planning to swap a 4th gen engine into my oil consuming 2011 Prius soon. I've read through this entire thread and cannot conclude why the thermostat jiggle pin needs to be removed/cut off in order to avoid overheating.

- The part number for thermostat assembly (16031-37010) is the same for all 3rd gen and 4th gen models (2010-2022).

The jiggle pin has a purpose - when installed correctly (jiggle pin positioned at 12 o'clock), it allows for trapped air to vent when the system is being filled with coolant. Removing this pin will allow a constant, albeit small, flow of coolant through the radiator which will prevent the engine from running at its designed optimal temperature.

Has anyone successfully swapped a gen 4 engine into their gen 3 Prius without having to remove the jiggle pin? @RightOnTime Are you removing the jiggle pin on your professional swaps?

I would think that it should not be required provided that the thermostat is installed correctly. Or do the coolant routing and hose modifications required when swapping 4th gen engine into 3rd gen Prius change the cooling system so much that it affects how air is vented through the jiggle pin?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks all!

 

I am also confused as to why I had to cut my jiggle pin on my second, 3rd gen to 4th gen engine swap. The first one never had an overheating issue.
JohnnyChimpo showed a restrictor that was in one of the hoses. Must have fallen out while flushing. I believe I saw one of those in my bucket of antifreeze but I wondered who put that in the bucket. I think that restrictor needs to be in the system, in the proper place. I don't know where it goes nor do I have one nor do I know where to get one, Toyota? I did make a restrictor and put it in the "hose going to the cat" and that did not work. I think it should go in the bypass hose to the EGR cooler. I will try it this summer.
I have tried to rule out, with no success:
the cat EHRS
the EHRS actuator - I tried to take one apart from my old cat, broke bolts, and got nowhere
thermostats from Toyota and auto parts stores
antifreeze types and ratios - I went back to Toyota coolant and found no difference (ethylene glycol) although I think a ratio of more than 50% may be part of the jiggle pin problem, lower than 50% did not fix the problem
Toyota coolant is no longer "special" HOAT, it's not even propylene glycol
continual bleeding of air but there's no air in there

The fact is that if your swapped Prius is overheating, and you need your car, you can cut the jiggle pin and it will not overheat anymore.
I have proven to myself and no one else, that air gets trapped behind the thermostat actuator and insulates it. It will eventually open but often too late. Cold weather makes this a huge problem and less so in warm weather. You should get all your cooling system issues resolved a month or 2 before cool weather (50 F).
My gray v is running without a jiggle pin and has for the last few winters. The heat does not get as hot as my black v.
I put a clamp on the bypass hose for a few days and the heat was hotter.
I think that restrictor is key to the system functioning as designed.
Thanks for your question.
You do not need to cut the jiggle pin.

- Fix That Prius !!!

 

Any input on the Gen4 hose vs tube ? I can’t read anymore. Seems like an inexpensive part to buy at dealership … does it have name or better .. part number ??? Any thoughts what could be ??

I’m also Bonneville Salt Flats spectator-guessing at the thing circled in photo :\ if any help …
see photo….

 

you have an extra bolt in your flywheel. It should only have six I think. I think there’s one after every rivet. I think

 

Im glad yours worked out . Just finished mine too but it just stops running after it starts. I ran a DIAG came back with cam,temp, water pump, knock & maf sensor with high output. Either I pinched s as wire or when i extended the temp sensor put too much or too thick wire on it? Or cross wired it duh. Hope not! , So I swapped all my original sensors that never had any issues but still the same issue.

 

Did you say that you used the Gen 4 clutch plate? I thought I read a few pages back that someone re swapped it because the gen 3 was too noisy and it worked. But then again someone else said the spline opening was too big?? Sooo

 

So your saying the gen 4 Damper WILL WORK??

 

My earlier post didnt quote clearly.. does anyone know if using the Gen4 “elbow” is okay ? It’s same or better than “galvanized pipe” ]•with this connection.. “block to lower radiator hose” ?
Or is it a problem to reuse “G4 elbow” there ?

 

Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid

aftermarket upgrade VVT Solenoid https://www.redbullet.net/

 

NO simply saying a new better damper gen 3 damper.

 

Oh ok I thought you were pointing out that the difference in the number of springs that the GEN four had made it better than the GEN three and that’s the one Your using my bad phew! I almost took my engine out.