Death Rattle... clean manifold & EGR, new plugs, no change

What is wrong with getting a one hour diagnostic from a Master Tech at the dealer? It almost sounds like some assumed troubleshooting step was misinterpreted leading to a dead end. Now we are ready to pull the engine? I would spend a couple hundred with Toyota first. Often the answer is simple.

 

I don't know how long it takes a torque damper to die of old age ... it just isn't something I hear of happening.

I suspect any amount of increased oscillation shortens that time, whether codes are set or not.

 

The reason I wouldn’t bother is because they’ll just claim a standard excuse such as blown head gasket. They’ll replace the head gasket and claim well that was bad also when the engine exhibits the same problem.

QUOTE="rjparker, post: 3197810, member: 41651"]What is wrong with getting a one hour diagnostic from a Master Tech at the dealer? It almost sounds like some assumed troubleshooting step was misinterpreted leading to a dead end. Now we are ready to pull the engine? I would spend a couple hundred with Toyota first. Often the answer is simple.[/QUOTE]

 

I would not tell the dealer what I think it is. I would tell them all the details of what is happening and what was done.

Did you ever get a chance to ask your daughter for any info she may have on the noise/clues? (The daily driver, actual driver not the car, does tend to know the car the best).

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

I do believe Toyota designs these dampers/mounts as replaceable without pulling the engine/transmission. I did see one that was accessible after dropping the front rear carrier (I forget what Toyota calls it) aka subframe. (That was a good many hours of work for me personally)...



REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

Borrow 4 ign coils or buy new ones to test

 

The damper lives in the same position as the clutch of an M/T or the torque converter of an A/T. I am not sure how you would replace it without separating the engine and transmission, unless you've got Scotty to work your transporter.

 

Darn, while there is a way to get something to dematerialize, ie powerful explosive, we're having technical difficulties getting things to rematerialize!

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

Yeah it's not a big difference. At first glance I was thinking it could be exposure variation, but # 1 does seem to have more glisten. Check again when it's sat longer?

 

pretty subtle. Plus, your compression readings look pretty tight.

Do you have an air compressor? That's half the battle. I see leak down gauges for around $50 CDN and up on Amazon.

Another thing worth noting: he barely pays attention to the valve set. The low needle on the right side gauge is a red flag for sure, but he's mainly just looking around and listening. That you can do with a compressor tester hose with the valve removed. Basically apply air pressure to a cylinder at TDC of compression stroke, and look/listen/feel for escaping air.

One thing he doesn't really explain, is HOW he determines he's on compression stroke TDC. The second video goes into detail on that, around 8:30:

 

What's your barometric reading? Most compression specs are for sea level- any increase in altitude results in proportional decrease in gauge readings. What are your fuel trim numbers while driving the car- both with and without misfire? If you do have some kind of misfire then it's going to have some affect on upstream and downstream sensor readings (and fuel trim ).

I use a TDC "whistle" while barring the engine around. Air is forced out of the spark plug hole and through the whistle as the piston comes up on the compression stroke- making noise. You can also do it with your finger over the compression tester adapter hose but then you need a second person to turn the crankshaft.

I then use a long screwdriver down the plug hole as a "TDC indicator". Watch the handle as you turn the crankshaft. Note about where the handle stops going up- then continue and note where you are sure it goes down. Turn the crankshaft back halfway between those two points and it should be close enough to TDC.

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Hi Nor'easter,

My 2013 Prius is doing exactly what you described throughout this thread. I was wondering if you ever determined what was causing the "death rattle"? Thanks

 

clogged egr, leaking head gasket...