My 2013 Uber vehicle died after making a loud noise.

Boy, with the stock air-box and air-intake snorkel nixed, you've got enough room to swing the (proverbial) cat in there. And yeah, those clamps are much gentler on hose.

I tried ordering some (of that clamp style) once, but had some issues sizing them. I should have done more research: the diameter range on the ones I got resulted in clamping that was barely adequate. Also, installing them required pulling hoses off first, which can be a royal pain with barb connectors.

I've read (in the tips section of this site: https://www.new-line.com/ ) that hoses are not needed with barb connectors, as long as everything's sized properly, so ran with that. Keeps the install very neat/compact.

 

Jump packs don't need constant top up though, they're pretty much isolated when not used. I carry a Clore JNC660 in the large plastic tray under the hatch floor (on our 2010 hatchback), lots of room there. Funny thing: I've never needed it for our car. So far, knock on wood...

 

Yeah, I like the K&N filter, because there is no way any rodent can enter the air intake. Here's a photo of my friend in Florida that I helped him fabricate.
https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/collections/hps-performance-air-intake-kit/products/hps-shortram-cold-air-intake-kit-11-17-lexus-ct200h-827-502

 

Yeah under one of the front seats is a good choice.

I was thinking about that egress too: nice little room under the air filter, sheltered and warmed (when the engine's run). I put 1/4" rodent mesh on the end of the intake snorkel.

 

You don't want to store the Lithium-Ion jump pack in the engine compartment. The heat of the engine will damage and likely discharge the batteries.

Only lead-acid batteries need to be "topped off." Connecting a lithium-ion battery to charge continuously would shorten it's life appreciably.

The best option would be to charge the jump pack through the front lighter outlet. The jump pack has a LED gauge that tell what the state of the charge is.

The jump pace comes with one way diodes that only allow the current to the clips work in the correct polarity. It will not receive a charge that would come from the car's charging system or the 12 volt battery.

In my case, I have a cable with lugs attached directly to the battery terminals with the connector to the jump pack coming out of the edge of the carpet.



When the battery died, all I did was to flip the back seat down, plug in the jump pack, went back to the driver's seat, started the car and drove it home.

No damage can occur to the jump pack, because the diodes in the line would not allow any charging current or current from the battery to go to the jump pack.

Here is a photo of that cable;

 

Nice thing is that this one uses the universal EC-5 connector.

Gromittoo, it might be a good choice.

 

I haven't seen this thread since the middle of pg 1 at which point I could think of anything constructive to add.
I took a look at the jump pack and got sidetracked into my batteries projects of which 2 are being worked on ATM. I have a couple others on the backburners as well. I was going to comment of that before I read through the other posts in this thread including the trip to Ithaca a couple weeks ago.

This may be way off since it's about an 02 Civic EGR
I did an EGR valve and pass ages, cleaning the pass ages with the engine running.
A month later I got 2 new Evap codes The EGR valve sticking again and the new code for the Canister shut valve. I ordered the shut valve. Than had to get a new canister cause I couldn't remove the valve from the canister without mangling both.

 

Oh yeah, another possible bust on being helpful as I don't have personal experience with the details and is only what I thought from looking up the B1000 code using google instead of my default search site.
I got a lot of hits for Toyota B1000/31 and if you take a look back at the post that showed all the subcodes
( was that site B1000 Code Electronic Control Unit ) ?
subcode 31 says a general checksum error.
Again, no personal experience other than reading posts of Honda Can Bus reverse engineering types
From what I've gathered, the checksums are part of the communication protocols used on the CanBus to verify communication data between ECU's.
edit: keeping in mind there's really no substitute for techstream and your specific models repair manual for diagnosing the codes your car shows.

 

ScanGauge 2 would have retained the codes that could have been readily retrieve even if the ICE was not running but the 12 volt was OK.

 

I was just armchairin from my seat here in front of the screen.
Overheating light coming on temporarily then goes away | Page 2 | PriusChat

At least I read the all posts in this thread before I posted. And that's not always the case for me, unfortunately.