2013 no actuator code yet - 147k

When you open the door in the morning, listen for the brake booster pump operation. Usually it will run for 10-15 seconds. Go to ready with the ac on low, no radio and your foot on the brake. Listen for the pump again. Now you know what it sounds like. Sit there for two or three minutes listening without the brake applied. You should not hear it. When its getting bad the pump may cycle on its own every 30-60 seconds. Sometimes when driving at every light.

Normally a good pump runs once in the morning just prior to driving. Maybe once at a light, usually not. While driving you may not hear it running but a bad one cycles all the time. The usual code is excessive continuous runtime on the pump but that may take several minutes of continuous running. There are other codes for the master cylinder which also qualify.

If your brake booster system is not cycling frequently, you may be ok. But if it is then consider the following.

Don't let somebody read the codes and then reset them especially if you get some brake lights. Don't let them disconnect the 12v which will also reset codes. Be sure the dealer can see the codes. Most aftermarket code readers can't read brake codes anyway but they can reset them.

Finally, the most frequent use of the brake pump occurs at low speeds when the regen system is not slowing the car. So drive slow in the neighborhood while stopping often to smell the roses. Don't take the car on long trips in an effort to stay under 150k miles if at all possible. The deadline is Dec 31 or later if under 150k miles.

 

all models, but not all cars. might be a good time to trade

 

It's not a hiss. It's a motor noise.........

 

tough time to car shop because of demand and high prices, but your car is worth a lot more than normal, so it's a fairly balanced equation.

 

Anyone hazard an estimate what a dealership would charge for the repair, if you just go in flat-footed?

One wrinkle: there’s two gizmos on the firewall, and one or the other, or both, may need need replacement.

I’ve read the lower, less accessible gizmo (with the word pump in its name?), is a bear to access. The original Repair Manual instruction required dropping the sub-frame. Dealerships understandably were dismayed by this, and Toyota came out with a revised instruction and some special tools.

 

The revised instruction (T-CP-D0H-A510-D) and the special tools came out right at the time there was a recall on a bunch of those lower gizmos (they had been built with a slightly undersized bellows, that would bounce inside the can over bumps, and crack). Nothing like knowing you're about to have to replace 87,060 of the things, to motivate coming up with a way to change it that doesn't involve dropping 87,060 sub-frames.

 

When Toy replaced my system that I had already replaced with used said it was a $2200 dollar fix....

 

Good to know, thanks. I can drop that kind of $’s at the dentist without breaking a sweat.

Would you consider DIY’ing it, say cobbling some of the special tools and with Techstream ?

 

Around here it is a $2400 dealer job using new parts. Many have changed them without special tools. This recent video is pretty good. There are different part numbers so just any used part may not work. At minimum it would be best to have techstream or let a mechanic with it finalize the job.

 

At the very least, reading through that document gives a great preview of which parts of the job are most likely to be hair-tearing without the custom tools. I'm pretty sure I'd be referring to it closely, whether I had anything like the pictured tools or not.

 

I did it with sears tools and a lot of swearing.....

 

Next will be the traction battery, water pump and the dreaded inverter failure.
Have you had the inverter firmware updates And to top it off...... the icing on the cake.......blown head gasket

 

Thanks all, trying to download that video for posterity.

 

Nice video, but don't take the plugs out of the new unit's fluid connections until it's all in place and you're connecting the lines.

If you're following Toyota's precautions, you'll also be putting little baggies over the ends of removed lines until you are ready to reconnect them, and avoiding any cloth gloves or rags from which fibers could get into the system.

That last one seems a lot like the kind of rule that only gets made after somebody incurred a cost....

 

Join the toy website enter your vin and you can see what has been done

 

Also, if you have Techstream, you can just view the calibration IDs for the different ECUs in the car, and compare them to what the campaigns should have updated them to.