Prius V Instrument Cluster Styles

This one looks like it doesn't have the multi info display. A Picture with flashlight lighting might confirm. The paper label is blurry, but the listing text is clear the part number is 83800-47M60

 

I can give your friend a start. Based on the number of times I have removed and reinstalled the MFD:

Step 1) Remove the panel with the Start Button, Park Button, and the shifter. This should be possible using fingers only, and a rocking motion. I have removed this panel dozens of times, and the clips are really sturdy. Re-installation is a matter of lining up the clips, and giving the panel a good whack with the palm of a hand.

Step 2) Remove the upper glovebox with the door to the lower glovebox open., This should be possible using fingers only, and a rocking motion. I have removed this glovebox dozens of times, and the clips are really sturdy. Re-installation is a matter of lining up the clips, and giving the glovebox a good whack with the palm of a hand is several places.

Step 3) Remove the Air Vent assembly. This should be possible using fingers only, and a rocking motion. I have removed this Air Vent assembly dozens of times, and the clips are sturdy BUT NOT AS STURDY as the glovebox or panel. Re-installation is a matter of lining up the clips that go into the shelf between the vent assembly and the IC. This requires more care than with the glovebox or the shifter panel. Once everything is lined up, give the vents a gentile whack with the palm of a hand.

Step 4) There is a shelf between the Air Vent assembly, and the Instrument cluster. I removed this panel one time three years ago. I was trying to reach the place where the GPS antenna would be installed, if my 2013 Prius V two had such an antenna. I don't remember details. IIRC, the shelf came out easily, and re-installed easily using the techniques above. IIRC no pry tools or sockets were needed.

NOTE: the vent assembly in the "pre-facelift" models is a different part number from the "facelift" models. The obvious difference is that the "pre-facelift" version has 3 vents, and the "facelift" version has only 2 vents. I suspect that they clip in the same way, as other PC members have purchased a used "facelift" vent to match the 510057 unit they have installed in their pre-facelift Prius V.

At this point, the front of the cluster should be accessible. Unfortunately the shroud that covers the cluster is molded into the dashboard, and does not come out this will make it hard.

Looking at the images on eBay, the instrument cluster has many plastic clips. Studying the replacement cluster should reveal the best way to remove the cluster. It will be tricky.

I hope to find out this afternoon, as my wife is off today and our 2017 is in the driveway. I want to get a look at the paper sticker on the back of the cluster in the 2017. I will post photos.

 

Apparently, hard to do:

Step 4) plastic shelf is very easy to remove.

The cluster should look at this point:


Obvious next step is to remove the two Phillips Screws that are holding the frame piece that make up the inside sides and bottom of the top of the shroud.



I removed the two shroud frame screws, and the frame shroud is still firmly attached along the top edge seam. Note that this seam between the shroud frame and the dashboard panel on the top of the shroud is highly viable to the driver. I did not want to try any pry tools (even plastic tools) until someone else chimes in with advice.

 

Thanks... I probably would never have found them, and made a really ugly mess out of the bezel frame / dashboard seam. Even with removing the rivets, the bezel does not come out easily.


Note that I lost the pin in one of the plastic rivets. They fall out easily.


There are a total of 8 screws now visible. 3 on each side, and 2 on top . The two on top are really tiny, and easily dropped.


The 3 on the left side:


I decided to quit while I was at this point, and wait until Wednesday when I can have the car again in good daylight.

 

Thanks, you saved me a lot of grief.

I just want to make sure I fully understand. The picture below shows the three screws on the left hand side. I want to remove the two screws that are circled, and not the screw that has an X through it? The same two screws on the right side would also be removed.

 

Thanks for saving me the lookup of the clip PN. I was planning to order new floor mats for my 2013 anyway, and my dealer offers a substantial discount if I order online, then pickup in person. Order placed for clips and floor mats. Done.

I have not ordered the new cluster yet, because the eBay seller has not confirmed if the part has the "multi info display" or not. I want to pull my 2017 cluster to see the part number on the paper label. I hoping it will be different from "83800-47M60" on the eBay unit.

Once I have the two part numbers, I will contact the dealer to verify it will work.

There is also the issue of getting the Odometer to be set to match. Having the car suddenly lose 20k miles in the CarFax database when I get the cars annual safety inspection next year will raise red flags. I also want to know if the VIN number is stored in the cluster.

 

Wow only 26k. I put more than 20k a year as an Uber driver. 7k just since the end of June.

My reason for changing the cluster is mostly cosmetic. I like the lower trim level version better (closer to the 2013 version). If it costs hundreds just to get the ODO / VIN right, then it would not be worth it. My wife's car only has 43k on it. In two years (when it might become the Uber driver car), it might have 63k on it.

 

The value is certainly an issue, but the Title status is a much bigger issue.

Uber and Lyft do periodic background checks, and if they might see anything suspicious on the Carfax report of the 2017, They would have the right to bar me from using that car on their platforms. A car with a suspicious drop in mileage might automatically be considered a "Reconstructed" Title by their insurance companies.

With that in mind, if I change the cluster, I would insist on having it set to the approximately correct ODO setting (+- 500 miles).

 

That might work as far as resale is concerned. I am considering a swap where my current car has 43k miles, and the replacement would have 23k miles. Carfax has a record of my car being inspected in July 2021 at 42K miles. In July 2022, I will need to get it inspected again, and if I do the swap with the eBay cluster with 23k on it, the miles would go down. This would be a red flag.

My experience with Uber and Lyft is that they tend to put your account on hold for slimmest of reasons. They can take weeks to reverse a hold on your account (which is why I have to drive for both). There is effectively no appeals process. If the insurance company that writes the 1 millon dollar commercial insurance policy does not like the Carfax report, I can't use that car for Rideshare.

 

I have found a member who may be able to set the Odometer to whatever I tell them to, for a more than fair price. I want the odometer to read more miles, so that it reflects the actual miles on the car.

I got the existing cluster out of my 2017, and the paper label says 83800-47F31. The eBay cluster that looks like it is be the one I want has a part number on its paper label of 83800-47M60.

I called the parts department at my dealership this morning. They cannot find the part numbers from the paper label in their system. They confirmed that the part numbers that show up on their website shown below, which are for a 2017 Prius V US. The part numbers pre 5/16 are the same, except that they end in 0 instead of 1. Given my experience with Multi Function Displays, when the last number increments from zero to one, it has been a backwards compatible improved part that supersedes the previous part number

My dealer's "Partznet" affiliated website list the following for a 2017 Prius V has different part numbers from those on the paper label.


The eBay cluster is cheap enough that at some point, I may just try it.