What is the voltage of traction battery?

Without central air I can run my house indefinitely on 3kW. 90% of the time I'm sitting around 0.3kW. It's only the occasional microwave or blow dryer that "requires" more. If I just want lights and internet, I can survive on 500W.

 

Because this topic comes up so often, but scattered around all the different model/year-specific forums, I started a general one in the "Knowledge Base" forum and tried to collect a bunch of the existing links.

Electric power from a hybrid, connecting inverter to the high-voltage system | PriusChat

 

When it's in ready mode, it'll act like it's in ready mode. Don't overthink it. It'll stay in EV till the EV level is depleted. The ICE will start and run till the battery is sufficiently charged and shut back off. wash, rinse, repeat. Just like when you're driving.

 

So it can supply 3,000W at idle in ready mode? That's all I'm worried about. If it can't supply 3,000W the inverter is going to over-discharge the traction battery.

 

Do you have a ScanGauge, Torque app, or anything that can show you the battery charging current? Have you ever watched it when idling in READY and it's charging the battery?

With your 352-ish volt Prime battery, 3,000 W is about 8½ amps. Have you ever seen charge currents in that ballpark while idling? I'm pretty sure I've seen larger. In my liftback I'm pretty sure I've seen high teens at times while idling.

With the lower-voltage liftback battery, mid-teen amps would only be about 3,000 W. In a Prime, 14 amps would be more like 5,000 W.

By the oddest of coincidences, PlugOut Power's supported vehicle list shows the 3 kW unit as recommended for a liftback, and the 5 kW unit as recommended for a Prime.

Another way to sanity-check it could be to look at the engine curves, and see that right down to about idle RPM, the engine itself is still good for nearly 10 kW when you load it down and the ECM responds with the throttle. And that looks to even still be within the 230 g/kWh efficiency region. (At lower loads, 3 or 5 kW, sadly, it is not. But then, what g/kWh are people getting from their commodity generators?)

 

Bonjour,
Pour ce qui est de la tension de la batterie HV
Sur ma P4 PHV de 2017 j’utilise l’application OBD Link avec le transmetteur LX
En été, le compteur m’indique :
370 Volts après une charge complète
310 Volts à la fin de la décharge au moment du démarrage du thermique.
Je vous donnerai d’autres mesures au prochain hiver par temps très froid.

 

combien avez-vous payé pour votre prime?

 

Couldn't get my elec bill that low if I tried.i don't even have a plugin car yet

 

... and some doors or windows open too?

Coming from an all-electric house that originally had only direct electric resistance heat, I can't imagine that much juice even on the coldest winter days ever experienced here before I started the efficiency improvements.

 

Dad's house is similar or worse. WWI-era with no intentional insulation downstairs beyond a layer of tar paper under the siding. The attic was still bare as I grew up, but converted to finished (and insulated) bedroom space a quarter century ago, very sharply reducing downstairs heat loss through the ceiling.

It was originally heated by a fireplace and wood cookstove. A central wood-burning furnace was added, probably a decade after post-WW-II arrival of electricity, and consumed a huge about of wood. At least it was very well supplied from natural timber mortality from several hundred acres of adjacent forest, there was no need to cut and cure any green trees.

To save on the very considerable woodcutting labor, dad inquired about converting to electric heat sometime in the 1970s, when the Pacific Northwest was on another all-electric push with its cheap abundant hydro power. The utility worked up its estimate of needed furnace size, and talked him out of it, as the electric cost was unaffordable even under the very cheap prices of that era.

After several years of deliberations about an alternate heat system to cover for his declining mobility and ability to keep the furnace fed (and upgrading to double pane windows), we finally put in a large ground source heat pump six years ago. It has been great. Though his electric bill is very high compared to the highest mine ever was before my own heat pump conversion, at least it allows him to stay there over the winter. And eliminating the prodigious wood smoke production (he never understood its toxicity, so made virtually not effort to make it burn cleanly or efficiently) has helped everyone's lungs.

Whoever lives in it next will want to strip the interior to the studs and insulate it. And update the utilities. And close up the very many entrances enjoyed by the rodents and critters looking for a warm winter haven.

 

You might explore some of the energy conservation subsidized loans and grants available in your state. It depends upon where the house is located and which utility companies serve it.

I admire your ground-source heat pump. I've been noticing that several municipalities are trying to ban burning any hydrocarbon fuel for heating new buildings. That means no natural gas or fuel oil or even pelletized wood. It's a well-intentioned effort, but not well thought out about what alternatives are practical in various locations. The electric grid certainly is not up to projected demand for all-electric buildings ad the growing number of plug-in electric vehicles.

One interesting technology which I have been following is the using heat exchangers with existing underground water and sewer utilities as an alternative to driving wells or laying fields of tubing for geothermal ground source heat pumps. There are several successful installtions of this technology including the retrofit of an an elementary school in Valley Stream, New York.

But, as you note, the biggest economic return is making the investment in insulation and weather-proofing -- although it's painful (and frequently not possible) to have to make the front-end investment.

 

He did get a tax credit incentive for the heat pump. That link also leads to an incentive for residential insulation. But the blocking issues now have nothing to do with finances, and plenty to do with a very frail senior citizen still living there and having veto power. It just won't happen while he is still living there, so must wait the next occupant.

Seattle is going after natural gas, and some nearby cities and suburbs are looking at it too. Some are going after any new gas connections whatsoever, while others are considering banning just new space and water heat while exempting cooking.

The intent is to push new living units to electric heat pumps. Having a considerable installed base of electric resistance heating, this is in parallel with efforts to free up capacity by nudging those legacy electric users to upgrade to heat pumps. I did my part by mostly converting long ago. Some resistance heat remains at the far end of of the house, and I am considering displacing most of that by adding another minisplit for comfort, backup, and extreme conditions. But it won't run enough to ever 'pay back'.

This summer's record breaking heat wave, and the considerable heat stress mortality it brought, has added to this movement to replace natural gas with heat pumps. The later automatically bring cooling, which the majority of dwellings still lack due to our (pre-climate-change) history of mild weather.

Around here, oil heat has been mostly removed for cost and ground contamination (tank leak) issues, and wood (non-pellet) has been sharply reduced by air quality programs.

Some years back I heard of a mini-'gold rush' to acquire rights to the heat content of neighborhood sewage flows, as sources for heat pumps for large buildings. But I haven't looked for followup news on this.