Dead Prius

Most likely the car was reverse polarity jumped, not shorted. Shorting would do less damage. I would verify the fusible links starting with the link on the battery positive terminal. The second is the main 125 Amp that is essentially under the engine fuse box. Checking voltages per the schematic would be smart prior to pulling the fuse box. Plus there are several fusible links in the engine fuse box.






https://bit.ly/PriusGen3PowerSource

 

You can help jump start a hybrid with another hybrid Toyota. But you cannot jump start a non hybrid with a hybrid Toyota

 

For a situation like this, you will really want to have Toyota's Electrical Wiring Diagram manual at your fingertips, and you will be referring to it often in tracking down what might and might not have been affected by the event. On this wiki page you can see your options for getting access to the EWD. I would have said toyota-tech.eu but I haven't been following how Brexit might have affected that.

For an example of someone carefully and patiently working through the aftermath of that kind of event, you can follow this thread here. In fact, I think DMAndy is in Maidenhead.

 

Power on the white cable means the battery terminal fusible link is ok. But the 125a needs to be voltage checked somewhere downstream (to the right) of it. To access it the fuse panel has to be separated as shown in the first response.

Don't forget the rest of the fusible links as shown with the triple fuse icon.

 

You can refer to this post for more on access to that inside fuse.

Naturally, it is a lot more convenient to confirm it's ok using a voltmeter and avoid digging down to it.

 

@jzchen has wrestled with the same fuse box (for a DRL mod) and found that the outboard side of the fuse box has a couple of plastic pegs that poke through holes in the inner fender. So the whole box needs to move inboard a little for those pegs to clear. That looks difficult, with some other stuff in the engine bay bracketed down just inboard of it.

 

I got stuck trying that if I recall there is a bolt deep down on the fender that I was able to remove but something held that in place also. The best way I believe is to remove the fender and get at those "clips" but I didn't have the heart as the car sat at least one month or two. I just put things back together.

As of now the front right fender needs replacement I will hopefully paint it myself, get it clear bra'd and install it on my own. May make another go at DRLs. (I got tire rubbing 225/50R17 when I was in a rush due to a dent in the right front fender).

moto g(7) power ?

 

Some have accessed the fuse by partially separating the two halves as shown here.


Bottom view of separated box with fuse secured by two screws


Note the fuse can be seen from the top using a good light. Obviously the challenge is access which might require full fuse box removal. The TIS site may have instructions at a cost of around $20 US.


This pic shows the front left side (as seen from the front of the car). Note there is a section about three inches down and a vertical section on the left that you may have removed.


The remaining Thumbnails illustrate a theory of how part of the top is removed, partially highlighted by Chapman in green on the illustration.

 

Further thoughts on accessing 125a fuse:

1. It would nice if one of our resident Documentarians would dig into TIS and find a Repair or Replace Instruction on this fuse (sold separately by Toyota). Yes I am looking at you Mendel particularly since you and the Op are both subjects of the Queen.

2. A similar problem was discussed for another Toyota in another forum where the answer was partial disassembly of sections of the fuse box directly in front of the fuse access. That blogger stated removing the sections required pushing into the slots while simultaneously pulling on the section. A difficult dance since there were a couple of slots that needed this at the same time. He suspected there was a special tool to make it easy, something Toyota has been known to do.

After viewing my fuse box again, the above seems possible. See pics.


and

 

It might be possible to just drop the plastic wheel well liner and look up, and see where those pegs poke through.

I can't quite tell whether those look like straight pegs that just slip through the holes to help position the box, or more like clips that would take some force to pop out.

A while back I ordered a used fuse box for cheap online to study how it went together, and it arrived with those pegs broken off. So that's another way. They took chunks of the side of the box with them, so I might not call it a good way....

 

I'm in HI until Thursday that will be the next chance I get to search my files and look at the fuse box. (Sorry about this).

moto g(7) power ?

 

Fuse box is three layers as far as I know. (At least the Prius c one I got that I disassembled). What the heck is that odd shaped area for? I was able to pull that cover but there was nothing really underneath at least that I can remember. (It's been a really long time so I could be confused)....

moto g(7) power ?

 

I looked at this possibility this morning and it appears the fuse box goes into a steel inner liner with a bracket the fender attaches to using two bolts. That bracket has maybe one inch clearance with the fender still in place. If a guy had an appropriate tool maybe the fuse box pegs could be released without fender removal. It seems to be one of those things where assembly is easier than disassembly. But I hear Mendel is on the case now.

 

Here! Don't go nutz about bolts!

moto g(7) power ?

 

Here's the bare-bones engine bay fuse box removal/install instruction from Repair Manual; haven't really looked it over. Can look some more in a while.