2010 Toyota Prius overheating issue, Nothing works!

Fan?

 

Sounds like air in the system still... Keep at it... You'll get the air out eventually!

 

Gen 2 is what I'm familiar with and Gen 3 might be different, but when I had an air bubble creating overheating I'd take off the actual radiator cap when engine was cold and top it off. Many others on here have done the same. Maybe try that routine a few times? Also a free OBD2 app like "OBD Doctor" will allow you to monitor engine temperature while driving so you can avoid damaging anything with overheating.

 

Gen 3 doesn't have a radiator cap. It is a degas-bottle system. The plastic bottle isn't just an overflow reservoir; it's a pressurized part of the system, and is where the burped air ends up during burping.

 

Yes; it is used for the initial fill, where coolant is poured into the degas bottle to the B line prior to burping, and at about the same fill level, a bit will come out the bleed valve. Per the repair manual procedure, the bleed valve and the degas bottle are both closed then, and the engine is started and warmed up to deliver the remaining air back to the bottle, where the level drops from B to F.

After 2011, the bleed valve was discontinued, and the rest of the system remains the same. I have not seen the 2012 fill instructions to find out exactly what they changed in the fill and burp procedure with that valve gone. But it only ever played a small role during initial fill and before burping the system.

 

I honestly don't recall if I did this when refilling our 2010 Prius (with the vent open), but I do recall refilling a previous Civic, vent open, and while pouring I could feel a strong gush of air out of that vent, all the while I was pouring.

 

What else would you expect?

 

There are posters here who regularly follow procedures of their own that are different from what's in the manual, and the earth does not open and swallow them up. Anything that gets the air out does the job.

 

You may want to unbolt the coolant reservoir and raise it up a bit while bleeding. Also is the coolant in good shape? Maybe it's getting diluted and old?

 

I just changed the coolant on my car.

I have a 2010 so it still had the bleeder by the sensor on top. If you don't have the bleeder there you could always loosen the sensor while idling.

The procedure I followed was similar to the nuts and bolts video but I did a couple extra steps.

1. Refill the overflow tank till it stops draining down.
2. Run vehicle for 15min on a level surface with overflow cap open. I used Dr prius to go into maintenance mode easier.
3. Close the overflow and crack the bleeder valve by the sensor.
4. Turn the heat on hi and fan to max. Let it idle for another 15min so that the coolant circulates thoroughly.
5. Crack bleeder again.
6. Exit maintenance mode and take the car for a 20min drive with the heat on hi and fans up.
7. Top up the coolant whenever it gets low

I couldn't get my rad fan to turn on from idling because it wouldn't get hot enough. I checked the fans by turning on the a.c. and they both turn on and I monitored coolant temp with the torque lite app and it would hover between 65 and 86c so i figured everything was fine.