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Gen 3 Prius timing

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Garra671, Nov 9, 2020.

  1. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Ok gotcha, I wasn't clear on that. Is it a reg Prius hatchback or Prius v (larger version)? Engines the same but just in case thread is moved.
     
  2. Garra671

    Garra671 Junior Member

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    It’s a 2012 Prius V
     
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  3. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    I have the exact same car (Prius V 2012) and also did head gaskets job on it I made sure my piston 1 and 4 were at top dead centre and alighted the timing marks based on gasketMasters video but when I put everything back together I was getting loud metal on. Metal clunks and yes I had plenty of oil in it, the only thing I can think of is my chain tensioner didn’t tension the chain full and the chain was slapping around I turned the car off right away ! I opened it back up to the timing case to make sure nothing was broke or loose, I turn my crank shaft by hand eveything seems smooth but I notice slack in the chain during mid way of a stroke, should my chain be tight at every position? Will appetciate any feedback
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If the crank seems to turn smoothly by hand, can you keep spinning it until the marked chain links line back up (may take several full circuits of the chain before they correspond to the cam marks again)? Then you'll see if the timing slipped at all.

    I would not expect to see much slack at any point if the tensioner is doing its job, but then I don't know how much slack you mean.
     
  5. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    Here is a video of me turning the Crank by hand
    Ok well I saw few other videos where they turn the Crank by hand mine looks the same but my timing marks have not lined up I dont know how many revolutions I must go for it to line up can I use an impact wrench to turn the crank ?
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I would avoid using an impact wrench to turn the crank.

    The number of revolutions you might need can be calculated (when the sprocket tooth and chain link counts are known) like so. For this engine it takes 70 crank revolutions to get from marks-aligned to marks-aligned-again. The cams turn at half crank speed, so that's 35 cam revolutions. If you're just counting the times the painted chain links go by, that's 9 times.

    Of course if you found the marks already aligned you wouldn't bother turning the crank at all, so 69 crank revs, or 34½ cam revs, or just under 9 times around for the chain, would be the maximum you'd ever have to turn to find aligned, if you didn't know where you were starting. On average, starting from random unknown places, it'd be about half that.
     
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  7. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    After you installed the timing chain tensioner, did you "unlatch" it so that it can function and take up slack in the chain per the service manual? That has to be done before starting the engine. If not then there is the possibility that it is now out of time - which can result in valve to piston contact. I might consider disassembly to recheck cam timing and to make sure no chain guides were damaged. If timing is confirmed to be off then I would pull the spark plugs and look inside the cylinders to see if there are any contact marks on the piston tops.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  8. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Coming from “been there, done that” land, take the spark plugs out when checking timing mark alignment. LoL
     
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  9. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    thanks so much for the great explanation I wasted so much time trying to figure why the timing never lined up I took the timing cover off 3 times already trying to fix this issue, I would turn it like 3-4 times and I would give up and I would pull the cover!
     
  10. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    the first time I started the car I didnt know that the CHain tensioner didnt automatically deploy with the engine it made winding sound and my engine shut off but I also had forgotten to hook up my ground wire to the engine block so I got COIL Pack Errors engine Light I hooked up the ground and started it again and it started but I had loud engine knock ! so I turned off the car right away not even 2 secs and I have been trying to figure out if my trimming jumped or not or I caused damaged to Valves/pistons I will need a camera scope eh ? to look through the spark plug I am guessing Thanks for your feedback
     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Repair manual says you need to rotate crankshaft slightly in direction opposite to usual, to get the tensioner to “release”. If I’m not mistaken, “usual” direction is clockwise? During that counter-rotation you might hear it release?
     
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  12. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    Yes I have to go a tiny bit counter clock wise to have the tensioner release also curious is my crank shaft sprocket suppose to be all lose when there is NO chain on it like it comes off by hand very easily
     
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  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I think that may not be a problem. It might be held in place axially when the crank pulley is installed and torqued down, and in normal operation it's only ever pulling the chain in one direction.
     
  14. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    well I got the timing set perfectly and it took way more then 10 full revolutions to get it to line up but it finally lined up with all the marks and I put everything back together and started the car after Head gasket job cause I was loosing coolant and this was the cause the rattles and knocks I was getting and also I was blowing white smoke out the tail pipe so here is a video of my car running I had similar rattle before I did head gasket job on it seems like I didnt fix anything after so much Effort if anyone has any clue what this knock sound is please let me know I am thinking its my COILS now!
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    What are you calling a "full revolution" here?
     
  16. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    from when I see the timing markings and they go all the way around I thought of that of that as full revolution
     
  17. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Could you somehow have ended up with a chain with a different number of rollers than 140?
     
  18. Berserk DIYer

    Berserk DIYer New Member

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    So, here is to hoping someone sees this and is willing to lend sone advice, as I still can't post a new thread.

    So, timing...I'll jump right in. Let's say you've got a gen 3, a 2011 to be specific. The timing cover abd chain are off, the cam carrier and head bolts are out, and the only thing left towards a head fasket replacement is lifting that section off and getting started!

    Knowing that the cams are not where they need to be and the timing chain sprovkets are not where they need to be, how does one time the engine properly when putting back on the chain?
    Also, I would assume some type of sealant is in order when replacing these large metal chunks of engine back together yeah? Assuming all the surface prep has been done of course. Doesn't the gen 3 repair manual have all the torque specs in it? Thanks guys! Any advice you have would be great!
     
  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Last link in my signature is full engine section.
     
  20. Berserk DIYer

    Berserk DIYer New Member

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    Mendel, thank you again my friend. You are absolutely right. I still can't post aboit my timing issue on account of the no new thread thing. Maybe the count is 10..maybe I'll have to just be patient until I can finally ask everyone, because I haven't been able to find jack on this. I'll keep at it!
     
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