CatShield vs. CatSecurity catalytic shield

I have the MillerCat installed on my two Prii (Gen II)
>>Has anyone had any issues with rattling? Or any issues at all?
No
>>Also, what is the typical cost to have it installed?
I've had it installed (parts+labor) at Dave Frost Auto in LA (authorized MillerCat installer) for $300 total. He gets the part for $150 each as he buys it in bulk, and installs it for $150. I have seen the install price range quite widely. I recommend comparing prices of authorized installers.
>>Lastly, are both companies affiliated with Toyota ?
MillerCat is an authorized toyota aftermarket part. I dont know what that means other than, Toyota has green lighted this product to be carried and installed at their dealerships.

Hope this is helpful.

 

I bought the Cat Security shield and had it installed in Spring. I also bought stainless steel rivets (to replace the aluminum ones that came with it) and rubber-backed washers. I think I was charged $150 for labor. So far no rattles.

 

There's loads of companies selling these right now because they are super cheap to make... And keep in mind they're a deterrent, so quality is not that relevent because all of them can be cut through or pried off with a pry bar. Just buy the cheapest $100 one you can find and get a friend who has floor jack and jack stands to install for a 12pack of cheap beer and a pizza! Only takes a half-hour.

 

I see you're in California, I would add be careful of smog checks also. Make sure the shield (which ever you choose) can see through the "holes". Smog requires the tester to "see" the cat. Each smog station is different of course, one station may let you pass and others may hassle you to remove it (or charge you to remove it).

 

Yet another reason for installing your own cat shield... That way you'll be comfortable with removing it. As in cheap & easy to remove next time you have a smog check... A crow bar and a 10mm socket on a cordless ratchet can have that shield off in 5 minutes or less if you practice.

 

Seconding the advice to find a cheap one and install yourself — they really are only a deterrent, like bicycle locks, if the thief wants to get it off, they can, pretty easily, no matter how much you pay for it. I found one on ebay for ~$100. It took me about an hour to install, but I took my time, it was pretty straightforward, as long as you have a drill (and jackstands of course). Most will want you to install using rivets, but then you have to buy a rivet gun, and taking it off (if you ever need to do that) would be a hassle. I used self-drilling metal-to-metal screws (to avoid rattle, install using bonded washers like these). For added "security," you can epoxy some rivet heads on to make it look like they are riveted on, like this person did. All in the name of good fun!

 

I remember in elementary school when I realized all the cheap bike locks kids used on their bikes would snap just by pulling the bike out of the bike rack as hard as you could. I did NOT start stealing bikes, but my view of the world was shook and I was confused as to why no one got their bikes stolen very often?

 

Miller probably says its replaceable because if you check out their installation guide (link below), their shield is made so that you attach rivet-nuts to your car undercarriage, in holes that are already in the undercarriage, and then you hold up the shield and screw it to the rivet-nuts. But they claim the screws have proprietary heads that makes them difficult to remove without the proprietary tool. if you did want to remove it, just get your tool out and remove the screws.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0447/4758/7749/files/Stainless_Steel_Prius_Gen_2_Installation_Guide.pdf?v=1625241470

Which level of screws are right for me?– MillerCAT Corp

Compare this with the other shield products where you basically have to drill a bunch of new holes into your undercarriage and then you are supposed to rivet the shield directly to those holes you just drilled. If you want to remove it, you will have to get a tool to remove those rivets, like grind their heads off or whatever. Alot more hassle and mess than unscrewing security screws with your security screw driver.

I tend to agree with everyone else, the best shield is one you actually put on the car as soon as possible. The differences are not that much. A true thief will get through rivets or through security screws if they are determined enough. You can see threads on this board where they just took a sawzall or something and cut right through the shield itself - so the screws vs rivets debate in that case was completely irrelevant.

The shield is a deterrence mechanism more than anything. Thieves are calculating risk v reward in their head and that shield makes the risk go way way up because it slows them down, and it makes their job a lot noisier. The thieves that attacked my car apparently were slowed down enough or deterred enough so they only cut the pipe, didn't finish the job by attacking the shield itself, and ran off. If i didn't have the shield, they could have taken the cat in a few seconds.


Oh, as to the temperature... you can actually read both your Cat temperatures using an OBDII scan tool and an app like Torque Pro. I haven't noticed any significant difference in mine after the shield install. Spikes to 1300 then down to 1000 degrees F like normal (summertime)

 

A crow bar between the shield and the underside of the car can bust through any kind of fastener you use very quickly...

 

I got the CCM shield for $160 shipped. I used all the rivets and screws that came with it on the installation. No rattles. No more stolen catalytic converter (so far).

 

to be clear all the commercial ones i have seen connect directly to the frame / body , i have never seen one attach to the plastic.

 

It really doesn't matter which one you get. Int's important to get one.

All those marketing claims like stainless steel and special security screws appeal to the purchaser, not an effective enhanced deterrent for the thief. Any battery powered angel grinder will make quick work at removing these fasteners.

Cheap additional deterrent includes painting the car and most of the exhaust with VHT header paint like this and placing catalytic "converter engraved stickers" so they are readily seen by potential thieves,

 

What's the point of the "catalytic converter engraved" sticker? I would think that thieves could just cut out the valuable part if the car's vin# was engraved in the body of the cat? I'm about to replace my cat and like the idea of that header paint as a deterrent - maybe spray on "after market cat" directly on the body so I don't get some idiot thief thinking it's a valuable one.

 

The point of the "catalytic converter engraved" sticker is the same as the video or burglar alarm sign. It is an extremely cheap theft deterrent.

 

I'm just curious, how will engraving on the cat (or just stating that it is engraved) deter theft? Is it possible to easily cut out the valuable part of the cat therefore rendering the engraving useless?

 

Make lots of engravings all over it? Then make a stencil and high temp paint them all?

 

I get the impression that the only thing that will deter these thieves is if they realize that the Cat is an aftermarket one with a scrap value near zero. The bright paint might help point this out and/or a sticker or spray paint that states "aftermarket cat installed". I highly doubt these thieves are selling the cats on Ebay or as replacement parts - they're almost definitely just going to scrap the valuable sections. Wouldn't surprise me if some of the scrap dealers have a pretty good idea that they're buying stolen goods.