2010 Warm Air When Engine Runs/On (AC Heater Servo Regulator 063800-1100)

So the AC blows cold air when it's on the HV but as soon as the engine kicks in, the cold air becomes warm (not hot) air. Doesn't matter if the car is moving or stationary. Web searches reveals that it could be the A/C Blend Door and/or Blend Motor. I removed the glove compartment and can see the motor. It looks like maybe a teeth is missing (the gear moves). The part number on the motor is 063800-1100. I can find the part number on eBay but that's about it. I can't seem to find it at parts.toyota.com. I tried looking at the diagrams on parts.toyota.com but I can't seem to locate the motors. At rockauto.com, I found the item but the part number doesn't match -- it also doesn't include the gear....

• Can someone help me find the parts (motor and/or gear) on parts.toyota.com or rockauto.com (or some other site that sells them new vs used on eBay)?
• Also, any hints on a guide to removal (esp, the bottom half of the dash to get to the motor) -- I can only see 1 of the 3 or 4 screws?

Thanks!

P.S. The other two motors works fine. The recirculate door moves properly (I can see the flap move with the filter door removed). As does the direct air foot well -- that motor also turns and air does flow to the foot well.

 

If I don't move the car, the engine runs for a short time (30 seconds?) unless the battery is low. And as this is a new problem (I replaced my '08 with this 2010 five days ago), but from what it seems like, yes, the AC works for the first minute of the day while the engine is running.

 

So you're thinking that the engine running for 30 seconds in the morning creates enough heat to overcome the cold A/C air to become warm air? Hmm.... not being a mechanic, I can't disagree.

As part of the troubleshooting process, I did use an OBDII and using Torque both and Car Scanner, neither shows any codes. I had driven ~300 miles before reading the code. I don't have techstream so there are things that neither Torque nor Car Scanner can read...

So while on the highway from Orlando to Tampa, when the engine turns off during a coast or what not, the AC would run cold but when the engine kicks in, less cool air .. throughout the whole trip. Unfortunately, driving at high speeds, the engine doesn't turn too often, so it was a less than cool trip but the system wasn't blowing high heat so it was tolerable without having to turn off the AC and/or open the windows, even during the 3-6 PM heat. It was about 89-92 outside, so it wasn't too bad with the cold/warm cycle of AC but with the windows close and no AC, it would of been deadly.

 

Sorry, so a little history.

• Day 1 -- Dealer detailed the car and turned the HEAT on high to "dry out" the carpet and seats. Drove home; ~20 miles and did not notice issue.
• Day 2 -- drove to Tampa -- notice the problem -- stopped at Pepboys and they did a VERY quick visual said maybe freon was low. Picked up a freon can with analog gauge for $60. Attached to the low port and the needle on the gauge is in the green zone (~40). There was some bubbles in the inline visual thingy -- I 'added' (pressed the handle) freon anyway -- the bubbles are gone and the needle moved a tiny little bit, maybe ~41. Drove back home in the afternoon in cooler than outside temperature but not cool enough to be comfortable. At home, web researched the issue, found similar issue on priuschat and priusforum.
• Day 3 -- Drove the car to and from work and the issue was still present (~40 miles round trip). Looked at the motors for the first time, I only checked the two (recirc & floor) -- I did not change the temperature to see if the blend door gear turned -- brain fart. However, I did tried to turn each of the visible gears by the teeth, including the blend door gear, they moved from none to less than a millimeter.
• Day 5 - This morning, my brain did re-engage and I had my son change all three settings (recirc, floor, and temp). All three gears move. When changing the temperature between hot/cold, the blend door actuator motor gear does move. The gear (white) on the blend door actuator motor seems to turn in sync with a black gear. And they 'seem' like they might fit together but I can't tell since it's behind things -- I see only the top of both gears and they are close to each other. It is the black gear that looks like it is missing a tooth ... I can't tell from the parts diagrams the location of the black gear. One kicker ... the AC seem to be fine this morning on the way to work, including while the engine is running.

 

I did check and it's fine ) see Day 2 above).

 

This is the can that was used: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/ac-pro-a-c-pro-ultra-synthetic-a-c-recharge-r-134a-kit-20-oz-acp-100v/11917719-P?navigationPath=L1*14922%7CL2*15020%7CL3*15922

 

They did detail the engine ... probably with a pressure washer. If the inverter pump failed, it threw a code and the dealer cleared the code; would the code come back? I have driven the car over 200 miles since the detailing ...

 

It was a large green zone... and the needle was in the middle. It can't hurt for the needle to be in the higher 1/3 of the green zone, right?