HELP! 2005 Prius warning lights - told 2 ECUs need replaced and possibly battery assembly

I just borrowed an OBD2 reader from a friend and re-read the codes and this is what I’m getting now.

 

So I have a couple questions.
1. On the OBDII reader there’s 3 options for the DTCs: Current, Historical, or Readiness. What does readiness mean? Or can those codes be ignored? If I only look at the current DTCs then it only gives me P3000 and P0A80.

2. Is the free version of Dr.Prius (The battery monitor) enough to get a good idea of the health of the modules? Or is there a better app I should be using?

3. How do I interpret the results of it? Here is a picture of what I got with the car just sitting idle but do I also need to view it while driving?

 

How can I export the Dr. Prius app data to a .csv? I've tried searching online but couldn't find anything. The record function wasn't even saving anywhere for me that's why I had to just take a picture of the phone. Do I need the paid version of the Dr. Prius app for this? or to get a better look at the battery's health?

 

Okay so I was finally able to get the data output from the app as a .csv and am now looking at it on my computer but to be honest I'm not sure what I'm really looking at. I drove my car around earlier at different speeds with the Battery Monitor running in the Dr. Prius app. But, how can I tell from looking at the data when the battery is in heavy charge vs discharge? Also, I've read that it the health of the battery is also dependent on the voltage differences in the modules?-Is that just the voltage differences between neighboring modules or the overall voltage difference? And, do I need to look at the differences in resistances too?
I've attached the excel file of the data in case that helps.

 

I tried doing a forced charge earlier (car in drive, foot on brake, and push the gas) but it wouldn't charge. Also, when I first turn my car on its almost always on just 1 or 2 battery bars. When I first went to take it for a drive today, it charged up relatively quick by just sitting in idle (the had ICE kicked on right away) but then after driving it around for a bit, going to the grocery, and then coming home, I couldn't get it to ever charge past 2 bars (and it mostly stayed at 1 - even when I tried to force charge it). Also, my overall range for SOC was 32 to 59.
So are these all symptoms that a module is bad?

 

On the drive back the delta SoC fell to 0.81%.
So what is the easiest way to identify which module needs replaced? Would the paid portion of the Dr. Prius app show me?

 

I'm sorry I am just very new to all of this and trying to make sense of it all. Yes, the Toyota dealer gave me the DTCs P3000, P3012, 3014 and 3019. But they told me that meant I needed 2 ECUs replaced. After talking with you, you said if it was an ECU it was likely the one inside the HV battery and to check for corrosion. I checked it and it looked fine but there was some corrosion on the battery's bus bars so I cleaned all those and the bolts. After that it drove great for about 150 miles (even had improved gas mileage) but then all the lights came back on. And, when I used my friends OBDII reader with the Dr. Prius app, I am only getting the P3000 and P0A80 codes. So I guess what I'm really asking is, are the P3012, 3014 and 3019 codes something only a high end OBDII reader, like the one at Toyota, would be able to get? I know they correspond to blocks 2, 4, and 9 but since I wasn't seeing those codes come up on the Dr. Prius app I wasn't for sure if maybe that issue was fixed with cleaning the bus bars and bolts and this was something different going on now? Or is my best bet still just to look at those 3 blocks?

Again, sorry if I'm being difficult I'm just trying to understand it all. But I really do appreciate all of your guys' help!!!

 

Okay, thank you, I will look at Blocks 2, 4, and 9 then. As far as determining which module within each block is bad, does my following logic make sense?
I took all the data from the Dr. Prius battery monitor (from both driving and sitting idle) and organized it in an Excel sheet. I found the voltage differences between blocks for each data point. Then found the minimum, maximum, and average voltage for each Block and each voltage block difference. I highlighted blocks 2, 4, and 9 in yellow since those are the ones I had codes for. Then every time there was a maximum voltage difference of more than 0.5V I highlighted them in orange. Then depending on which side of blocks 2, 4, and 9 these occurred on, I chose the module on that "side" of it and highlighted it in red. So I'm assuming the three modules I highlighted in red are the ones I need to replace.

 

So I replaced some modules based on the codes I had and it drove fine for about 60 miles and then the lights came back on. The only codes I am getting on my OBDII reader though are the P0A80 and P3000. One thing I've been noticing when driving it is, on the display screen where it shows the engine and the battery charge, when I first turn the car on the battery usually shows that it's charged (either blue or green) but then within a minute or so of when I actually start driving it, it falls to just one or 2 red bars. It pretty much always charges back up after a few minutes but the charging does appear a bit erratic - it will go all the way full green and then still show the engine charging it or it will drop low but the engine doesn't start kicking in to charge it.
Any thoughts on this??

 

No, when I took the battery apart the modules were already numbered from the dealer who rebuilt the battery before I bought it and they had module 1 as the one closest to the ECU so that's what I went with for the counting. Are different years numbered differently because I read conflicting stuff online about how to count them?