Yellow paint marks on oil filter cap

that was me being sarcastic. We need a sarcastic font.

On the serious, I’ve had issues like that with over torqued filters on many Prius before. Just use your dominant foot and push the wrench. It might take a couple of times, don’t kick it either. Just keep your feet on the wrench, continue to put constant force on it. It will slowly rotate I mean very very slow. I’ve done this many times at our Prius meet ups, haven’t failed yet. Just make sure car is securely jacked up. I get poo poo’d on here when I mention this method.

 

Candid @Grit? Makes you stand up and take note.

 

Here is a nice write up of the spin on conversion, I followed this on my 2010:

The 2016+ Toyota 2zr Engine oil filter conversion - Armstrong Family Blog

 

oh, I guess you're referring to another thread ?

in this thread, the op is doing a dump n fill until he can get the old filter off... that's really not a big deal. I'm in favor of it because hopefully it will end up with two oil changes at closer intervals from this ;-)

 

I've watched shadetrees "line up the mark" on things before , after doing a service on a machine. apparently standing their scratching my head and saying "why did you do THAT ?" wasn't enough to require an answer, they just grunted and kept going with the next amazing maintenance project.

I'm going to bet whoever over tightened that cap was playing connect the dots without thinking or logic.

 

Torque to click....great, but what torque setting? Until it clicked

 

See post #18:

Second*, third and fourth gen info attached. Second gen was spin-on, third gen is permanent housing, and fourth gen has both styles.

* File simply titled “oil change” is second gen.

 

My post was more of a running joke between a few friends. We asked someone what they torqued the wheels too and the response was "torque to click". Didn't know the actual torque setting, just that the wrench clicked....

Similar to someone aligning paint marks.

 

Ahh, gotcha.

 

My hunch is it was torqued once, and somone put the two marks as match marks, to indicate the angle to turn. Might be a little misguided.

 

lol ! I think we might know the same people !

what's really fun is the manual/rule followers that read the instructions, question NOTHING, and then attempt to apply 85ft/lbs to a 6mm socket head cap screw.

after the head pops, someone will say "why did you break that ?" and immediately be told "I set it to the book!"

... then everyone knows ...

 

lol !

another one I've heard:

"they torqued it to spec at the factory, so all I have to do is match their marks and I'm good"

 

Yeah it’s often a case of misreading inch pounds as foot pounds, then doggedly getting out the half inch drive torque wrench, applying twelvefold torque, and popping off the bolt head.

a little bit of common sense goes a long way: the Repair Manual will give torque values for most every bolt/nut, even small locator bolts (coil hold-down bolts for example), but it’s not mandatory to torque each and every one.

 

I have a Triumph motorcycle. I'm constantly triple checking to make sure I'm using the correct ft. lbs after reading the spec in newton meters.

 

In some shops it is standard operating procedure to paint mark the drain plug (and oil filter cartridge housing, I guess) right after it is tightened (torqued to spec?). That way the tech (and management) has a quick visual reference that this step was performed before the car is released.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

The perfect answer to a simple question !!!