As many other threads have suggested I replaced the 12v battery. To no success. Has anyone else experienced this? And if so, did you discover a remedy?
If you ditch whatever tool is telling you there are no codes, then read the codes and post them here, there will probably be more ideas forthcoming.
There are codes stored by the car to tell you where the problem is. You have to get a scanner or bring it to a shop that can read the codes for you. For a 2010, chances are your hybrid battery is at the end of it's lifecycle and will need replacement. But best to make sure by reading codes.
I use a windows based program called tech stream to retrieve my codes, but I'm sure the wireless one you mentioned "torque app" should be able to read codes. I'm just not familiar in using the wireless stuff. But in your picture, it seems the car didn't even get into ready mode. Did you mess with the orange plug on the hybrid battery? If you did, you probably didn't put it back and "lock" it in place. You would need to flip the lever and then slide it to "lock" it in place. Then try to start the car.
Yes, that is correct. Sorry. There are cases when turning it off and on 3 times will allow it to go into ready mode. But it won't do that in this instance.
since replacing the 12v battery (hopefully the new one is good), have you touched the orange plug looking thing on the hybrid battery? did you ever remove it? Do you have enough fuel in the car?
I wanted to provide further update. As it was not the inverter. On the phone it was the hybrid battery CPU that needed replaced. Toyota calls it a Battery Relay Junction Box part # G92Z0-47020. The mechanic said one of the relays had stop working and they don't sell those individually.
If that junction block is what they replaced, then it wasn't the inverter or the hybrid battery CPU. Those are all three different things. Interestingly, the junction box listed for a 2010 is G92Z0-47011. I can't pull up that G92Z1 as a good number at all. (Sometimes there are engineering numbers molded into a part that look like catalog numbers but aren't.) The little computer inside the battery got its name demoted from "battery ECU" in past generations to lowly sensor, battery voltage in Gen 3, but it's still pretty much the same animal. It's 89892-47080. It is disheartening that even the Toyota dealer went through "it's the inverter, no it's the ECU, no it's the junction box". Reading and looking up the trouble codes and following the given troubleshooting steps probably would have nailed it in one. Also sorry you went through that first-step detour of spending money and time on 12 volt battery replacement. We have too many threads plugging that ahead of just finding out what the car is telling you. The manual does advocate a quick check that you've got resting voltage at least 11 to proceed with troubleshooting, but we get a lot of people being led into more effort and expense than that simple check.
If its inside the hybrid battery, and dealer dont sell them, your best bet will be those company that refurbish hybrid battery. I'm sure they have those parts and might sell it to you cheaper that dealer price....it may be true that your hybrid may need to be replace. I would go for cheap parts replacement first then ask them to run diagnostic on the condition of your hybrid battery Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
The dealer does sell the junction block; G92Z0-47011 is a good part number. What the dealer was saying is just that the three individual relays, resistor, and current sensor that go in the junction block aren't separately sold.
Are they still covering it under warranty? Or raking you over the coals? If needed, I probably have a few laying around...
