Charging hybrid battery with RC Charger

Make sure you find an old computer power supply for the charger that will work, they aren't included in version 2 charger I linked to..

 

My bad, to many different ones out there called v2 I guess I made a mistake and got the old version 2 sky-100090 anyway I believe it should work only paid $35 and am not in a rush, if the new one advantage is speeding the progress it’s ok I can wait little longer, anyway will you recommend any specific setting?

 

Can you do all 28 packs at the same time, to "balance" them with that device?

 

Absolutely not, for balancing I have a prolong deluxe kit if I need to do that anyway this modules are not going back to my car they out the car and casing I have a newpriusbatteries kit installed in my car, my idea with this is work with the modules outside the hybrid battery casing clamping then together and find out the remaining good modules in my old 28 modules and probably made them available for sale, as you can imagine I can’t use the prolong with the modules hanging out the hybrid housing.

 

I asked because you talked about balancing them. You really wouldn't need to do that since you are selling them.
Unless, you sold two as a "balanced pair"???

Did you run Techstream or other software that told you the pack was bad? And where the back modules where?

 

Yeah that will work... Power supply is built into that one so it runs hot so cooling fan on it will help. They also charge slower so keep a close eye on temperature of what they're charging so it doesn't get cooked.

 

Ok, you may guess why I have a prolong hybrid deluxe kit, yes you guessed I already have the p3000 code and after opening the battery I replaced 2 modules and good for 4 months and again another module replaced and one day driving I have a RTOD and the code p3000 and clear the code it came right back battery pack was hot, next day clear the code and everything fine, I never drive more than 20 minutes except that day I got the p3000 so I believe I may have a bad module in the pack so I want to find the culprit lol, it’s personal between me and the pack that took $1600 of my bank account, then I can sell them making sure the culprit of the code is out, regarding the diagnosis all I used was dr.Prius app, so I don’t know where the bad modules, just suspect modules and anyway still pairs, block 4 and 8 and abnormal temperature in center of the pack, I still curious about the capacity of the modules after the prolong reconditioning, dr.Prius saying I have 101.69% score (old battery pack) like new battery but I still open to learn all I can out this modules.

 

I notice that the imax do not stop until it reaches the amps limit I setup so that may mean overcharging the battery (not good) so I see if I don’t charge any higher than 8.4 volts I don’t even have to worry about inflation of the cells in the modules because inflation of the cells doesn’t happen unless the voltage rises to 8.6- 8.7 volts.

 

Inflation of the cells will happen at any voltage if the modules aren't clamped down together in the rack. They aren't designed to be charged unless the sides are compressed.

And don't trust imax chargers to give you accurate readings, they weren't designed for modules this large and sometimes will make you think a module isn't fully charged when it is or more commonly tells you it's fully charged when it isn't. Best to use them to charge modules in stages and not all at once so you don't overheat anything.

 

I just playing for learning purposes with this modules and I learn I can’t trust the charger to tell me when is full I agree with that but I guess you haven’t tried charging modules no clamps on them I did it I have nothing to loose this modules are no going back to my car, so believe it or not the modules do not inflate up to 6 amps that I have available unless they charge over 8.4 volts, this is a test already done 5 times, have you tried?
For what I see everywhere the inflation happens because people are setting the charger to 7500 and in my test that always will be way pass 8.4 volts, I am about 4300 when I hit 8.4 volts so I will inflate if I try to continue to the 7500 target, so that is the problem, also charging a bad module can be a way to get inflation at any voltage, as you mentioned but anyway I will continue to research to see if 8.4 volts is not a full charge and if I need to charge over that voltage then you 100% right.
Thank you anyway I really appreciate you comment.

 

So continuing to experiment with the modules, I decided to see if I can charge pass the 8.4 volts without inflation of the modules by reducing the amps to 0.5 and it makes not difference it still started to inflate by 8.5 but interesting the module doesn’t get damaged it go back to normal shape overnight by the way am talking about a little swelling no a completely almost explode module, just to be clear.
Adding up something else was looking at the imax b6 ac manual and it suggest that battery can be charge up to 1.5 volts cell that multiply for number of cells (6) 9 volts for 9 volts definitely modules need to be clamped but I guess it’s good to know that up to 8.4 volts it’s not necessary.

 

Hi you need two metal sheets, cut to the module
Size than use those metal clamps.

 

Do anyone have a way to know when the battery is fully charged with the imax b6 ac this charger doesn’t detect the delta to stop, I do notice with a thermometer that temperature in the cells start to raise about 8.40 volts charging at 0.3 amps it takes forever but am not waiting for this, so I have a security camera monitoring the imax display so when I see the voltage fluctuation I manually check if temperature is raising and if so I finish the charging but do anyone know a more easy way to figure the full charge.

 

Ok so I'm new to all this I see so many people talking about different charging and discharging. I want to make sure I have my HTRC 240 set correctly so for charge I set at 5amp. Discharge set 1.0 amps 6.4V and 3 cycles charge to discharge. User settings cycle waste time is 10min. Low input cut-off 10v
Temp cut-off 120F. Capacity cut-off 6400mah with AC 75w. I haven't started it but from reading this is what I came to. Don't want to start without some help and ideas and if this is safe to do so

 

Wow really not a single person could answer thought this was to help each other kinda disappointed

 

we re all logged onto netflix ask us a movie question instead, you’ll answers galore

 

Lol ok I had a question so I cleaned egr valve and all the components put everything back together now I'm getting a bunch of codes p0102, p0113, p0123, P2135 I'm pretty sure all the sensors didn't go out but everything is plugged back in hoses and all and now this. Having so many issues right now just ready to get rid of this gen 3 2010 prius. What should I do?

 

Have you cleared the codes? I take it the engine IS running? How is it running?
What did you use to clean the sensors???

 

Yep cleared and the codes immediately come back. I used brake cleaner on mass air flow and soft towel on Map sensor. Here's the codes I'm getting basically seems like the electrical wiring is gone bad.]