Battery Energy Control Module

One round of top balancing will show an improvement but will be short-lived, like 2 - 3 months.

Discharging (bottom balancing) is what gives the longer-term benefit as it is where the lost capacity is recovered.

I'd give the full charge/discharge x3 followed by a final charge a go when you see the HV battery back to where it was in a couple of months time when the ambient temps are lower.

 

The 5 - 10 min it takes to change over from charging to discharging and vice versa should be plenty.

You definitely do not want much downtime (i. e. days/weeks) at the turnaround from discharging to charging. If you are taking a break always charge up the battery and leave it/use it then. If you leave it for a while, always start with a full charge again.

 

HA does say to disconnect the 12V battery (or at least they used to) but does not say for what reason. Two I can think of are 1) it will stop the battery discharging and 2) it will reset all the ECUs including the battery ECU.

Personally, I do not disconnect mine, but I do put my 12V battery charger on it for the duration of the reconditioning exercise to mitigate reason 1 above.

As for reason 2 above, I don't want everything to be reset. But that's just me.

 

I always charged the 12 volt at the same time I charged my battery with prolong.
Hatch and doors open during prolong.

I had the light bulb discharger worked perfect. Used it 3 times. Battery lasted 3 years.
Sold it on eBay for more than I paid for it. Bidding was crazy on it just like when I sold my cat.
I should have waited a few months on the cat sake there going for $1900 on eBay now I only got $1350 for mine 6 months ago,
I highly encourage you to sell your cat now. I bought one on Amazon for $129 and cost $100 to have mine removed and the new one installed and welded,
Car actually runs better and now 6 months later no codes.

as far as using Deoxit on battery connections that’s a good product I use it often but that will just run off those connections you want to use grease it will stay where you put it. I use Redline CV2 grease.
I put it in every electrical connector I run into on the car and I used it on my new Toaster hybrid battery install.

NoOx is good too. Redline makes less of a mess and is bright moly red.

 

Redline CV2 is also the best gun grease I have ever used. My Sigs love it.

google it.

 

Hmm, 249 V after 24 hours, that's high and quick. Not hopeful for your battery lasting too much longer. If you have Dr. Prius or Hybrid Assistant monitor the individual blocks and see what the block voltages look like.

 

The top voltage we see normally see is 241 - 242 V and it usually takes 32 - 40 hours to get to the point where the voltage has plateaued and maintains the same voltage for 4 - 6 hours.

In general, reaching high voltages and/or short charging times are an indication that all may not be well with some modules.

Having said that, the image in post #53 looks pretty good. Only a difference of 0.12 V between highest and lowest with an 8 A draw.

 

How many cycles of charge/discharge have you don already? If you have done three cycles then drive it for a bit and monitor the block voltages. Decide then if you want to tinker some more.

If the voltage difference gets greater, then it is likely more cycles won't help much. You're heading for module rteplacements, particularly if it is the same modules going low on discharge and high on charge.

 

I'd do the complete three cycles then drive the car and monitor. Are you following the HA process? Especially the target voltages of each discharge – 134 V, 101 V, and 84 V?

I'm not saying there is any issue especially based on just one screenshot. The way Dr. Prius graphs the voltages (of which I'm not a fan) exaggerates the difference. To keep it in perspective you have one-tenth of a volt difference between your highest and your lowest blocks. This is well within spec.

See how it looks after another two cycles and remember to finish with a final full (unhurried) charge. It will be interesting to see what the voltage tops out at in the successive charges.

This is a process that shouldn't be hurried.

 

Ok, I misunderstood so that is good then.

Shouldn't make a difference, sounds good.

Yes, it would be wise to wait but I would just monitor and do the next recondition in 12 - 18 months unless the car starts showing the signs of a weakening battery. Remember less is more.