Still P0401 after cleaning egr !! should we drive it?

You could be the first person on PriusChat to try to find out!

But that would probably call for some serious planning of how you would compare them in order to actually learn something.

There's clearly a dimensional difference with the Gen 3 change where the wiring won't reach.

And clearly some reason they changed the ECU programming.

 

Engine coolant bleed bolt missing?

 

Get in touch with Toyota engineers? Is that even possible?

suggestions for them:

make that component available separately

revise material of the ramped portion, to aluminum, steel, whatever

 

Plastic seems to be the root of more than one problem area; the engine coolant pump comes to mind too.

 

I'm far from a materials engineer, but isn't it common practice to purposefully make one part weaker to guide where failure happens? Maybe designing that part to wear down prevents something worse from happening.

 

So how does it feel, threaded down on the valve stem? Nice positive stop?

 

Birds waking up here.

 

Darn tootin'. If it isn't built up enough yet to hold, why find out later?

The spare I've got here will thread down and stop with a nice clean tok, and not show any sign of being persuadable to go any further. Under sort of reasonable torque, say twisting it with your fingers as hard as you might to change the channel on an old TV (if anybody remembers those). Or holding the valve, just by the rotor, in a horizontal position with the elbow attached and sticking out to the left. About that amount of torque, for sure.

(There's an obvious reason not to just try to figure out what maximum torque you can apply before something gives. A more careful approach could be to get a 12 V battery and actually measure the stepping torque the motor produces, then make sure your new ski jump can hold at least that, maybe 150% of that. But that would be more involved.)

Then it should very easily reverse and spin the other way. You definitely want to feel that the stop only stopped it, that it didn't drag up and over or get caught or snagged in any way.

 

I know, it's like me when I slip with a tool and gouge my hand, I always want to put off looking and seeing how it is.

If you are able to dig through it again by moderate hand-applied torque at your workbench, then you know and you didn't go through the labor of putting the whole car back together to find out.

If you confirm it stops like a good stop should, perhaps you'll be right and it's a short-term repair, but I also won't be at all shocked if it gives you another ... how many km did you say are on the car now?

Or at least until your next full throttle hill climbing on a 40 ℃ day incident.

Not sure about that; rotors in motors get made from metal all the time. The important thing is not their electrical conductivity but what they do with magnetic flux, so they end up being made of thin metal sheets stacked together rather than solid blocks. I suspect they went with this material for cost and weight and they believed it suitable, but maybe didn't count on the temperature it ended up hitting on that day.

What's originally there looks to me like a run of the mill white lithium, though I am no forensic grease wiz.

I often sidestep such questions by reusing what it came with, if it isn't obviously toast. But if you went and completely cleaned everything, then you shouldn't have compatibility issues from mixing greases, and whatever seems reasonable might well be ok. You might want to keep a note of what you do use, so if it ends up turning to rock or eating the rotor or something, we'll know "ok, here's a stuff not to use."

 

My chickens are screaming at each other.