Still P0401 after cleaning egr !! should we drive it?

Hey Wheezy

Yeah I noticed the set on ebay.com with gaskets via that part number you mentioned .. figured maybe not oem.. or old stock

However searching eBay.com.au yield fewer results as most of the cheaper sellers do not ship to Australia, cheapest here is about $330/350 which is still okay (if it's the problem) better than $660 for a used valve from local rogue yards

Will hold out on a brand new valve for a few days in hope a kind pc member out there with four spares in their cupboard chimes in I can see good used valves are cheap common and plentiful outside au

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Not to second guess my own work but to save me having to pull the thing off again for no good reason! can anyone please confirm if a blocked or cracked intake manifold alone can trigger P0401

Chapman I wondered the same for the late 3rd gen valve, opens my horizons

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Thanks Chapman, considering checking it incase some crud was lodged somewhere and showed it's head after install, really doubt it though as I cleaned each tiny orifice with a purpose bought brass brush egr cleaning kit and soaked and flushed it before & after, and oven cleaner, it was flowing clean water out each hole by the time I was done so really doubtful

I thought most people were not getting this code until everything including the cooler is completely plugged

Meh stupid cars lol grumble grumble

Will get there in the end, always do!!

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Actually i will cheat and just remove the egr pipe and punch some compressed air through the manifold

 

Hi Raytheeagle

I too left the lower stud on as a support prop and the nut in my junk box, I do not wish to ever get anywhere near your spare nut count lol

may I ask, do you know if a faulty stepper motor or valve exhibits similar symptoms to a blocked system, I mean having to ramp to around step 25 to make engine stutter?

Cheers

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its spotlessly clean in there, i had it off for cleaning the valve seat, to my surprise my egr system cooler and valve/ pipe work was never really very blocked, a little dirty but not "blocked" .. the manifold was the worse part of my system so i always had a bad feeling cleaning was not going to help!

I will take some shots very shortly .. stay tuned! & thankyou very kindly

 

Here's some pictures,

note when first removing the stator or cap what ever its called, the magnet unwound it's self around two turns (to the position shown in my last photo) just enough to reveal the lower bearing..

Manually wind rotor back down, it "self unwinds" about two turns to same position mentioned above

note some small pieces of plastic or magnet material populating the inside of rotor..

Is it normal to have the little stepped up piece of plastic at the base of the thread in rotor, the piece that seems to get progressively steeper but it's only around 3mm long .. 12 o'clock on my first & third photos on the inside surface of rotor

Note top bearing can slide up and down on its perch a smidgen, maybe 1mm

Note!!! Rotor feels a like it has perhaps excessive play aka side to side movement on the thread it's "worming" on

Note sorry if I don't explain things properly, I do my best! Lol

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the more i look at it the more suspicious i am of that little plastic dick in the bottom of the rotor that i mentioned earlier looked like it was progressively sloped on one end, i dont think its supposed to be sloped! i am guessing its some sort of rotor position sensor as such that works via the little metal dimple on valve, looks like the dimple on the valve has been slipping past (and straight over the top) of the plastic dick!! presumably started due to the plastic thread inside rotor being flogged therefor rotor not running true lol

edit! .. maybe it is supposed to be sloped, however i doubt its supposed to have a slot scribed through the middle of it that corresponds perfectly with the dimple on valve, if you know what i mean, sorry i can not get better photos my phones about as good a as my car right now!

also noticed if i look down the rotor thread with one eye shut (looking from end closest to top bearing) the thread looks flat and flared out much wider (flogged) at the top than the bottom, slightly cone shaped if you will ..i hope that makes sense? sorry i cant explain better

 

ChapmanF thanks for the photo of your ski jump lol .. been trying to get a look at one of these all day! We may have put this to bed, I mean I won't call it early but it's not looking good for that rotor, it's clearly damaged compared to yours.

I was thinking the same way as you, hit it with the soldering iron or some epoxy just for an experiment, I doubt it will last more than a few hours or days because Im pretty sure this starts with a flogged thread so the rotor starts to worm up/down unevenly

Thanks again, you guys rock!

Now, who has a spare rotor to sell me lol ....

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