Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

HA! mine has it and have been bleeding it by removing the hose!

 

Push a piece of clear tubing onto the spigot; then you can clearly see when coolant reaches that level.

 

what size tube?

 

What do we think on just replacing impeller?

 

Ah c’mon...

 

Sorry not home to measure just figured you knew of the top of your head. I had hoped to pick one up on the way home.

 

Yeah sorry, getting testy. Might be 1/4” od spigot, but not sure. I have some 1/4” id surgical rubber tubing (great stuff btw) and I seem to recall it was a nice snug fit. Maybe.

 

In situations like that, if it'll save me an extra trip, I've been known to do something like buy half a foot of the three closest-looking sizes and take them all home and see what works. Probably comes to what, couple bucks?

Of course I've also been known just say "tube that's a little too small to fit on? meet heat gun..." and that way a smaller inventory of tube sizes fits more things.

 

Good to know. I tend to use oil and lube that hole.

 

I have a large years-old tube of "silicone brake caliper grease and dielectric compound" which I actually don't use on my brake calipers (I use the Toyota specified greases there), but boy is it the ticket for making too-small hoses go on too-big things. Such a small amount works, you don't even need to be able to tell it's there.

 

Let me get this straight and recap.

had a misfire due to dirty intake traced and confirmed issue by unplugging EGR no more misfire.
went home cleaned Intake which was clogged. then of course CEl came on P0403 cause I unpluged EGR. NOW put everything back together.
P0403 still there egr plugged back in should the Cel go away right away or do I need to drive it for a bit.
I read in another post it took 40 miles for cel to go away after new EGR install. Cant drive it at the moment as I needa new water pump.

 

You ought to be able to clear the P0403 from all of the columns except 'permanent', and have the CEL turn off.

The code should go away from 'permanent' on its own after 40 trips where the car judges the EGR circuit to be normal, or, if you are impatient, after doing its confirmation driving pattern (essentially warming up and then ten minutes of driving above 12 mph) followed by a universal trip.

 

Would that be the same for the VSV purge valve large leak? IM thinking this cause of the its part of emissions and that requires car to go through some kind of cycle.

 

For every trouble code, there's a "confirmation driving pattern" shown in the manual. They're different because of course each pattern is supposed to get the car to do the things where the operation of that system can be confirmed. Then there is an earlier, overall "Diagnosis System", "DTC check/clear" section that covers the parts of procedure they all have in common.

 

got it thanks. I just need to wait for my pump to come in.

 

So got a new pump installed and put back my old EGR along with the VSV purge valve.
I drove it around and egr and vsv codes went away guess they jut need to go through a drive cycle.
here is a pick of the VSV with some PCV glue worked like a charm. I call the job a success. here are the tools I consider priceless.

the best is the Jemel orange angle electric ratchet makes quick work of hard to get to bolts. the extra oil collector I keep just for coolant. it is expensive so I just put it back in when messing with coolant system.

The table will save your back from bending over the LED work light I got at harbor freight for sale 20 bucks, super bright I was able to work on the car at 4am plenty of light. The tools you see here saved me so much time. ask me anything. The blue trey is good to keep your tools or the parts you take off organized and easy to move. I have also included a pic of a rubber bumper from a door you can use to run the car with EGR hole plugged. Might come in handy and finally this is less than 200 miles on the oil catch can. this normally ends up in the intake, How is this normal oil in the intake just crazy.

 

Hi everyone. Just bought a not running 2012 V with 264k. Seller was told it was a hybrid battery issue. I said to myself, I can handle that. Turns out it was blown head gasket. Didn't even check the dip stick while looking at it.

I would greatly appreciate help identifying the correct 4th gen engine to buy. I've read the 5th Vin digit must be A or B, but most of the sellers I've contacted do not have that info. I'm looking at one from jdm west coast on ebay. It's 2016-2018 and the coil packs seem to be oriented correctly with the electric connections facing to the rear of the vehicle.

Cool waterfall coming out of the oil pan, uh? Live and learn.

Will this engine work?

Thanks in advance,

Blake from Austin, Tx

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Paging @Ragingfit

 

The pictured engine can be made to work with the mods that @Ragingfit did to his, or you can disassemble the engine to the short block(take the head off), and get your existing head rebuilt, or get a reman head for your current engine. I chose the second option in mine. I used the newer engine parts to rebuild my old head.

 

Thank You very much. I'm not too savvy at head rebuilds so I will do the mods and make it work. Thank You again.

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