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How much driving to fully charge the 12V?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by pasadena_commut, Mar 5, 2021.

  1. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I think you're getting a little dramatic there. You might be overthinking things, just a tad.
    Yes, fairly regularly. Where exactly in the RM do you see that it says the DC/DC converter only puts out 14V?
     
  2. RRxing

    RRxing Senior Member

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    Musta been the redesigned tail lamps. ;)
     
  3. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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    14.4 here

    14.4.JPG
     

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    #63 alftoy, Mar 17, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2021
  4. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    It seems that for most battery manufacturers, that the "safe" recommended charge rate for AGM is 0.1C. So a 35 Ahr battery would be 3.5 amps, and so on. There are lots of opinions on the web that 0.2C is just fine. Given that the battery in a Gen2 can last for many years with no current limit on charging (is a constant voltage system), I go with a 6A or 10A AGM setting on my smart charger (depending on battery size) and not worry about it.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  5. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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    I was curious what would happen if I charged my Prius battery with the 15 amp charger. Prius has been in storage for the winter and I had a 1.3 amp maintainer on it. Took the maintainer off a week ago, so I decided to try the 15 amp charger, only because it had a digital readout. Took the Solar digital tester and tested the AGM battery, set at 350CCA, tried both AGM settings, tester showed battery could be charged, the CCA showed 500. Still can't figure out how the tester tests AGM. Hooked the 15 amp charger up and took a video for 45 seconds. Now I'm not using the 15 amp at all for the AGM, was just curious what the reading was going to be.



    Charger stabilized at approx 5 amps for the 45 seconds, then I disconnected the charger. Normally I'm charging the AGM with the Ctek 7amp and maintaining the AGM with the BatteryMinder, have 4 BatteryMinders, bought 6 years ago when Northern Tool had them on for $20 each. Also have assorted other chargers, my go to is the Ctek. Yuasa actually sells a rebadged Ctek.

    Ctek and Chargers.jpg

    I'm quite diligent maintaining my auto batteries, have 5 vehicles, couple farm trucks parked for the winter, batteries stored indoors.

    Batteries.basement.jpg

    The Toyota battery in the photo belonged to a lady friend, she is taking care of her 102 year old mother during Covid and parked her van for the winter. She went to start it after a month and the battery was dead, boosted it and took it to the local Napa. They told her she needed a new battery so she replaced the battery but told them she wanted the old battery, which kind of ticked them off. She was thinking she might be able to get warranty since it was 4 years old. She ended up letting me have it, brought it home and used my assortment of chargers to resuscitate the battery. Mainly used the Ctek charger. Was able to get it back over 665CCA depending on the tester, the blue one is a cheapy from our version of Harbor Freight. Just did the test, battery has been sitting for a month or so. I give all the batteries a top up charge every 2 months while they are sitting in my basement.

    Solar test Toyo battery.jpg Princess.test Toyo.jpg
     
    #65 alftoy, Mar 17, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2021
  6. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    On the previous page of this thread I wrote in a post about the expected battery voltage:

    That was all I could find. It did not seem reasonable to me that the inverter would put out exactly 14V, but either the HBC manual is sloppy (the most likely explanation) or it really is supposed to be capped at 14V.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    14.7 is the most common voltage I ever see in my 2010 when in ready.

    13.8 is what I was used to seeing in my Gen 1.
     
  8. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    I haven't been taking notes on the various Prii I have worked on, but my 2006 DC-DC converter does put out 14.0V +/- 0.05V

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I wouldn't read too much into that. The RM says "9 to 14 V" or "10 to 14 V" in many, many places in the "Specified Condition" column.
     
  10. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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    #70 alftoy, Mar 18, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2021
  11. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Just because a current source is CAPABLE of providing 60 amps under the right conditions, does NOT mean that it will under all or even most conditions.
    And what is provided does not all go into the battery. In fact under most conditions, most of it goes into running the car.
     
  12. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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  13. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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    This video explains it, but noted also that it was providing 10 amps to the battery until he turned on all the accessories and then input stabilized at 5 amps.

     
  14. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Interesting video, but that is a 4th generation car, and the battery being tested is a conventional lead acid, not an AGM like in the 2nd generation.

    Two good takeaways:

    1. The voltage on the battery never goes above 14.00 volts. So at least for that generation it really does seem like Toyota set that as a ceiling.

    2. His offhand comment that the headlights on the 4th gen pull 4A while those on the 2nd gen pull 18A. That probably shows up in the MPG for night driving. (Although the price of the LED components in the 4th gen are crazy high: LED Headlights on Gen 4 Prius | PriusChat)

    I believe there is a problem with his methodology though. When he zeroes the current clamps he does so far from where they will be used. Not good. DC current clamps are super sensitive to the fields where they operate. This explains the otherwise inexplicable measurements at 8:52 in the video where the auxiliary battery is reading 0.8A in while the inverter output is reading 0.0A out. If the battery current was real it would have to come from somewhere, and the only possible source is the inverter.
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    There are also just flat-out limits to the accuracy of Hall current clamps. It looks like he's using a Fluke i410, which is made for measuring currents up to 400 A DC. (An i1010 also looks like that, but would be even more overkill for this use.)

    I have an older Fluke model similar to the i410 and I just avoid using it to measure currents that won't be at least a handful of amps. Using it to measure fractions of an amp is like tightening little inch-pound screws with your 1/2" drive torque wrench.

    i410.png

    You can see how any reading in the neighborhood of 0.8 A barely emerges from the error bars. Even asking a question about what it means when readings of two different i410s differ by 0.8 amps is kind of begging for the answer "Cottleston, Cottleston, Cottleston pie".
     
    #75 ChapmanF, Mar 19, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2021
  16. Albert Barbuto

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    Sitting for five days, OFF the charger... IMG_2010[1].JPG
     
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  17. alftoy

    alftoy Senior Member

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    18AH? One of your Prius batteries? Isn't a Prius AGM 45AH?
     
    #77 alftoy, Mar 21, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2021
  18. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    What is the model number of that DMM? Shall we check its specified accuracy?

    It may also be useful to get the brand and model number of the battery, to check its specs for anything special about its chemistry.
     
  19. Albert Barbuto

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    Starting at post #28, the debate begins concerning the actual resting voltage of an AGM battery, after a full charge.

    The 18ah battery is NOT used in the Prius. Rather, it is the newest AGM battery I have at home, which should have the highest resting voltage.

    Two meters are now attached for a voltage reading. (See pic.) Meter accuracy is unknown.
     

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  20. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    A classic case of "surface charge", I think.
    Put a small load on it for a few minutes.......like a single 12 V light bulb.......and then read it again.

    Also this: