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Solar Panel Mod Controller

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by AzusaPrius, Jul 6, 2020.

  1. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I had gathered the 60 watt capacity for the panel from somewhere upthread (or in one of the other similar threads), but I had never stumbled on a spec in the repair manual itself. Turns out it was in there waiting for me to find it, among the "operation precautions" at the front of the solar ventilation diagnosis section:

    80w.png

    ... so, maybe up to 80 watts tops, depending on exactly which V and I numbers Toyota gave there. Eleven years ago when it was made, anyway.

    I think this buck converter is still probably not going to go poof in the near future, but I may continue to keep my eyes open for a version that does constant-current mode with the sensing on the high side.

    All in all, a pretty satisfying mod. After less than a week of sitting (and not all of it sunny), my aux battery now happily sits at 12.7 V after dark, which I grew up thinking was a pretty decently charged lead-acid battery (even though some higher numbers get bandied about here). That's a lot better than it was after a year of COVID and before this mod. The charge voltage in good sun stays right at 13.1 and doesn't fool the low-voltage disconnect into thinking the car is ready.

    A pleasant thought is that a day in decent sun with this could nearly or completely offset the load of a small efficient fridge.
     
    #41 ChapmanF, Mar 13, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2021
  2. fuzzy1

    fuzzy1 Senior Member

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    Not necessarily. If those figures are Isc (short circuit current), and Voc (open circuit voltage), as PV modules are commonly specified, then it cannot be an 80 watt unit. PV max power is always less than the product of those two figures, 60 watts sounds reasonable.

    OTOH, if those are the Imp and Vmp at the maximum power point, then it could be an 80 watt unit. But that current and voltage are usually buried below the topline specs. The safety folks focus on Isc and Voc.

    Here is a representative modern PV I-V curve. Back in the old days, the curve didn't fill the rectangle nearly as well, so I dropped much faster with increasing V.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'm sure your analysis is closer to correct. I just simplemindedly multiplied the two numbers Toyota supplied, just to get a quick upper bound on what the power could be.

    Reworded the earlier post slightly.
     
    #43 ChapmanF, Mar 13, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 13, 2021
    fuzzy1 likes this.
  4. hoffeck

    hoffeck Member

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  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Noticed robust ventilation action around midday today, while supplying 13.1 V to the battery at the same time. Now that's what I'm talkin' 'bout.
     
  6. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    Alright it has been a while since I added the solar controller.

    I will now be adding a USB powered by the solar panel so when the car is OFF I can still charge my phone.

    This also has a type C quick charge 3.0 port that directly plugs into the stock cigarette lighter plug connection and gives power when the car is on

    Install pictures to follow.. Screenshot_2024-05-29-10-46-14-1.jpeg Screenshot_2024-05-29-10-46-29-1.jpeg Screenshot_2024-05-29-10-46-33-1.jpeg
     
  7. AzusaPrius

    AzusaPrius Senior Member

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    Half way done with the install of the solar powered USB addition.

    Lost track of my extended USB cable so may need to order another one.

    Anyway the C 3.0 charger is connected.
    Easy plug n play and all tucked away.

    Once I find my extended USB cable or order another one, then I will connect it to the USB port and route the other end to the rear of the car to the solar charge controller USB ports.

    Then I will have USB power while the car is OFF all powered by the solar roof. 20240529_132605.jpeg 20240529_133936.jpeg 20240529_134534.jpeg