Engine Knock even after cleaning EGR pipe cooler

That's it's location.

If you do the job, get some FIPG.

Some of the studs need that.

 

I hope the plugs turn out to fix the issue. I am leaning towards a very different solution to my rattle under light acceleration. Seems my situation is almost identical to another posting where the damper between the ICU and the transmission was shaking . I am not getting any engine codes and all the rattling only happens when there is light pressure form the ICU. No pressure= no rattling and hard acceleration=no rattling either. Whether a damper swap or a head gasket job both are big jobs.

 

Just got finished doing my egr clean and catch can, not yet sure if I have cold start rattle but it was pinging a bit under load, however it was a warm one (30c)

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No I think motor stays but the inverter must come out so electrical system involved, and transmission must come out too. No choice i guess

 

Did you try high octane to rule out pinging?

 

Thanks for the reminder i will try tomorrow when i go for groceries.

However, I am reading a post by gearhead600 about his damper issues and it is looking almost exactly like my situation. I get no engine codes. I was having trouble defining the noise but the rumbling sounds like loose metal parts in a drum. When i go faster or accelerate hard the parts pull together and no noise, smooth running but at 20 to 30 mph light acceleration I hear the loose rumble. Though my car has only 59,000 miles on it it is all city with about 50% in rush our stop and go traffic which would put extra strain on the damper with all the stopping and starting.

I will try the high octane to be certain. Any idea how to get the correct gen 3 procedure for the damper swap?

 

I will but its already got a full tank at moment, It had a lot of buildup in the intake manifold and cylinder head ports, no doubt I washed more carbon into the upper cylinder when cleaning inside the head ports with carby and brake cleaner, It had that smell of rotten eggs for a minute or so when fired up for the first time

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Did you use an impact wrench or an impact driver? How hard was it to remove the screws?

I plan to clean my EGR circuit for the first time in the coming month. I plan to get the appropriate tools but have no experience with a power impact wrench, power impact driver, or manual impact driver. From what I just learned on YouTube, it seems to me that an impact driver can hold a screwdriver bit, but an impact wrench can only fit in an impact socket.

Does a power hammer drill work?

 

It’s not do-or-die that you have to disassemble the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. I cleaned both ends of the valve without going the extra step.

 

I must have been very lucky. For me the two screws only took a perfect fit Phillips head to get them loose. Then it was nothing to unscrew the rotor and push the stem down. In my case only the stem was sticking the rest was passable. (However, I still have a rumble rattle which I now am thinking is most likely the damper based upon gearhead600 article .)

I saw before that you found a source for the screws so no risk if damaged. Looks like standard bicycle water bottle mount screws but i could be wrong.

 

Are the screws on the EGR valve cover JIS by any chance?

 

Very likely. I have a JIS screw driver, “purportedly” also an impact driver, ie: you hid the head with a hammer and it’s supposed to do a slight counterclockwise twist. Except: it appears to do squat. I have a similar regular impact screw driver with Phillips bits, and it’s worked well with brake rotor retaining screws in past (likely also JIS) so that would be my go-to tool.

 

Yeah I have one of those manual impact drivers as well with Phillip bits but never had any luck with those pesky Honda rotor screws. Always had to drill them out. Might be time to finally invest in some JIS bits before I tackle this EGR system.

 

I've plugged the Lisle Seized Fastener Removal Kit enough times on here I should probably write them and ask for a commission.

It's what I used to get into this EGR valve here. Like buttah.

 

Seems to be a fair bit of corrosion in the stator. How was the stem working? Did it move easily?

 

It did when I was done with it. This was a valve I bought from somebody else as a spare, and I suspect it had been in storage and hadn't been operated for a while. The corrosion on the stator poles was fairly superficial, and I just made sure to clean it off, as well as the matching rust marks on the rotor, so there would be no mechanical interference between the two. I think I used a bit of Nevr-Dull on the stator, not for the aesthetics, but because it leaves a bit of residue behind that should slow further corrosion.

It's convenient that when reassembling the valve, it's hard to keep the rotor spun all the way down on the stem, against the spring; one has to let go eventually before the stator is all the way back on, and the rotor rides a little ways up on the stem. Then cinching the stator down pushes on the rotor and opens the valve slightly.

That makes it easy to check that the valve pintle can be pushed back to a fully closed position easily with a thumb. It moves smoothly back, with a soft whirring sound, confirming that the rotor is spinning inside.