Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

115f is cold. 115c or 122c (251f) is too hot. Are the radiator fans coming on at these temperatures? Are these temps on your installed gen4 engine?

Normally you can see the coolant moving in the reservoir as soon as the thermostat opens. I use a small led flashlight pressed on top of the reservoir to easily see the movement.

 

That's new to me. I've never seen that. Where'd you get that engine?

 

Yes, the waterpumps are indeed different.

*Tip: I ordered my OEM Gen4 waterpump from toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com which not only has low pricing, but No Tax (shhhh )

 

* I've started to get overheating issues too, and I am tired of fiddling with this car's convoluted Bleeding Procedure, so I ordered this from Amazon and will try to use it this weekend:

UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit

 

I don't recall hearing the fans but I will check them out tonight does anyone know the actual RPM at the pump should be running at

 

This is a JDM engine came from a company called redco

 

As rjparker pointed out, it sure does matter whether you're talking Fahrenheit or Celsius. At 115 ℉ you're not overheating, the thermostat wouldn't even have begun to open yet. That doesn't happen until 85 ℃, which is 185 ℉. The fans don't start until around 95 ℃, which is 203 ℉. To be getting into overheating territory, you'd have to be at least over 100 ℃, which would be over 212 ℉.

As for the water pump rpm, the ECM will request different rpm under different circumstances, but if you are concerned about a problem with the pump, you might look at how close the actual pump rpm coming back is to the rpm requested.

You could see in my results the actual rpm tending to be 300-ish rpm higher than the request. The ECM doesn't seem to actually be fussy about feedback-controlling the pump to an exact target rpm. It's more like the ECM will send a pulse train that means "about 2400 please" and if the pump reports back 2700 the ECM's like "great, thanks."

There's a trick to those tools too that might not be obvious the first time: you get one chance at a complete fill.

So your preparation matters a lot leading up to your one shot. Make sure the supply jug is above the cooling system, your lines are as free of air as you can get, then pull the vacuum and do the fill.

If you start, for example, with the jug below the top of the cooling system by ten inches, that's as good as pulling a vacuum that's ten inches of water too low, and you'll end up with an incomplete fill anyway. And if you get the idea to recover by opening the vacuum port again, you'll just suck the hoses in and spray coolant all over, out of the vacuum venturi. It's a re-drain and start-over proposition. (At least, re-drain by enough to account for all the volume of the hoses that pinch in under vacuum.)

We will not be going into how I know any of this ... but the last time I changed my coolant, I just used the bleed procedure in the manual.

 

I see my mistake I was reading about folks overheating at 108 c I was skimming through failed to register the c as I'm reading in f, so I'm good it seems. Will still test run tonight and make sure fans kick in. Now keep the pump or order send back as this engine came with supposed 10k miles on it. The little oil it has was like honey. So I find it to be valid.

 

look on craigslist. there is money in fixing these cars someone out there has the entrepreneurship to start a shop.

 

So i changed the measurement to Celsius and it stayed at 94 & 95 and shot up to 113 for 5 seconds then came back down to 95 C. what is driving nuts is the lower radiator hose connected to the water pump is cold so is the radiator and I have not heard the fans turn on. anyway to run the pump manually

 

Sure, click the Active Test button. There's one in there for the water pump (allows you to request 'off' or 3000 rpm). Should also be one for the front fans if you want to confirm those work.

 

Ok but what car did it come from? Mine was from a 2016 Prius and did not have that "gray thing" that could be stopping the flow of coolant.
- Fix That Prius !!!

 

Light flashes at 240 F and stays on at 250 F. The 50% mix will boil at 270 F. I would say if the light stays solid for more that 5 minutes, you have a serious problem. Yes, I know what I'm talking about.

 

Not sure it has that Toyota blue insignia on the valve cover.anyone know what cars besides corolla we share this engine with?

 

Well test drove it for 40 min car stayed at 95 103 celsius. And finally lower hose was hot to the touch. Still no radiator fans. In any case I got a consistent 49 mpg at 72 mph happy about that. My normal was 43. My commute is on very flat land. One more thing it clinks only once,sometimes like it wants to rattle but never starts to rattle. That bothers me I'm going tighten and clean everything over the weekend see if I can fix that.

 

One more interesting thing. in the other cars when turning on the heater helps cool down the engine what's interesting in this case when turning on the heater it actually raises the temperature in the engine it went from 96 to 103 celsius which I thought was rather peculiar but if anybody can shed light on this that would be good to know.

 

See if the radiator fans come on with the ac. They should. 103c is pushing it. You are talking 103C? That's 217F. My car never goes above 201F but that is because the fans come on.

"Clinks only once"? You need to work on your descriptions. Add more words for clarity. You will get more feedback when people can understand what your saying and not have to guess.

 

Clink clank shall I say it's like when the car rattles due to missfire due to blown head gasket that rattle/clink clank. But it only does it once in the morning.

 

103 is bad so I'm still in a bad situation.

 

Matrix?

And Pontiac Vibe, but wouldn’t have Toyota logo.