2015 Prius V jacking point

See pic

 

The rear jacking post is clear, but I remain uncertain of that front jack point in the jacking diagram in the v owners manual, so I ramp the car to do work underneath the front.

 

Yes the front is what you pictured.

 

I don’t like the scissor jack points for safety stands either. That’s on 3rd gen, but sim I suspect. There’s more solid, heavy gauge zones that work well, just inboard a bit.

Where do I place the floor jack and jack stands? | PriusChat

 

With the proper adapters, the $27.88 two tom Hypertough Walmart hydraulic two ton trolley jack is ideal for jacking both the front and real jacking the front and rear lift points of all Gene 3 Prius models including the "v."

Hyper Tough 2 Ton Trolley Jack Red/Black - T82011W - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

A simple aluminum rings allows the jack to "lock-on" the front jacking point without slipping off. This allows the jack to roll to compensate. The jack will not lift high enough to get both the rear wheels off the ground at the rear jacking point. The can be remedied by using the custom 2-1/2 inch rise that we developed especially for this purpose.

 

I use a high density urethane disc on a 14" lift quick jack, and place it on a piece of 3/4 Inch plywood to get the lift required out back (and protect my techo-block driveway).

 

Like this?

 

I don't use the pinch weld jacking points. Only the chassis jack points.

I don't trust loading the pinch welds not to cause yielding in the sills.

 

If done with the correct adapter, no damage will happen to the sills. Unfortunately, most adapters are too shallow and supports the jacking point only by the vertical "knife edge." Correctly done, it is securely supported at three linear places.

 

Right, "unfortunately, most adapters are too shallow", which is why I stick to the chassis lift points, and ask the inspection station lift guys to be extra careful when lifting to do their system and check brakes, etc..

 

I milled mine out with the correct deep slot. The soft urethane doesn't damage the expensive plastic rocker covers.

Luckily, we don't have state inspections in South Carolina.

I am a native New Yawker.

 

I'm never using the scissor jack points (or anywhere in the vicinity) for jacking, just safety stand placement, after raising either the front or rear. A 3 ton jack with decent lift, and a block of 2x4 on the flat plus a hockey puck, for the rear, I've got no problems.

Not sure how sim the v is, but these are the safety stand points I use on my gen 3 (red blobs):

 

I've seen some of the wrecks in SC. They're not all offshore.

 

Seen a lot of rusted hulks in New Yawk and more than in South Carolina.

 

Yes, but they are inspected rusted hulks...

 

I know, because I am a native New Yawker born on the upper West side.

 

For the Walmart $27.88 plus tax jack, I found that, if you remove the center cup by pulling the little spring loaded "safety pin" from the center of the swiveling saddle, the "cup" that holds it perfectly fits the front jacking point "nub" and keeps it securely locked on place. As the front end rises, the wheel of the jack turn, instead of slipping off the jack.

You will, however still need the riser adapter to raise the rear jacking point high enough to have both rear wheels off the ground.

 

Ever since I got my 2012 Prius v, I have searched and wide for those elusive Toyota service manual jacking blocks.

We finally mode our own by milling out aftermarket polyurethane jacking blocks made with slots that came too shallow.

This is the diagram from the Toyota service manual specifying those elusive blocks.