Can't get engine to kick in...

The only advice I can give is that guessing can cost more than replacing the whole car and take a lot longer. Best advice I can think of is a proper code reader. You can get free or very inexpensive phone apps that will connect to a bluetooth or wifi OBDII reader that'll set you back $20-60 depending on quality and versatility.

 

Will the car go to Ready mode? It's not clear from the picture you are showing. While waiting for a pro to answer your query, you can probably try a couple of basic things. Get hold of a multi meter ($15 to $20 at an auto parts store) and measure the voltage at the front jump points under the hood. If it's less than 12V, you will almost certainly need a new 12V battery. If the battery is still the original one, it is due for replacement anyway. While you have the fuse box open, use your multi meter to check for continuity on each of the fuses. Pay particular attention to the fusible link on the left side of the fuse box (picture attached). If something went wrong with your jump start, one of those branches is likely broken. If you have no radio, it seems likely there are fuses blown in the driver side kick panel, also. Test the continuity of them as well.

 

Good point, Dave. If the car was improperly jumped, there could be all kinds of blown fuses and other possible damage. @jimerb didn't supply any history so all we have is a snapshot with no context.

 

For continuity, you will be testing resistance (i.e. ohms), which should be one of the tests your multi meter can perform. A good fuse should have very little resistance, essentially zero. If possible you should touch your probes to both ends of each fuse with the ignition off. You may have to remove some of them from their slot to properly test them. Certainly a close visual inspection would catch most blown fuses, but occasionally one will have a break that is not easily visible. If they all test good, I guess the next step would be to get hold of a OBDII code reader, as Jerry suggested.

 

Removing the fuse and testing it with a multimeter is easiest and most reliable as Dave said.

If the fuses are good and you have a solid 12V or more (actually, it should start even as low as 11V) at the front jump points, it's time to use a proper code reader.