Prius v: Multiple Warning Lights, Hybrid Battery Code, but 12v Disconnect Fixes it. Huh?!

1....there's no magic number, but remember, each module is built from 6 individual 1.2 volt cells inside the plastic housing. This provides 7.2 volts nominal per module. One block is two modules, so 14.4 volts nominal. When you see one block that is about 1.3 volts less then the others, it's a pretty reliable indication that one (of the two) modules has a failed internal cell. There's no recovering that module. If you want to have a reliable car, it has to be replaced.

2...the car will drive normally if it only has a P0A80 code. Once a P30xx code is triggered to warn of a specific block becoming weak, then the car will go to limp mode, which can be challenging since acceleration is extremely weak and the car may stop when going uphill. Driving while only the P0A80 has been triggered can be done, but keep in mind you're always one small transient away from limp mode.

3...the dead short indication during a blink in time is interesting. I'm wondering if it was just a glitch in the data recording, especially since no P0AA6 code was triggered. The P0AA6 should lock in for all loss of HV isolation occurrences.

Take a quick read through this thread to get an idea of how modules work.

Just Another HV Battery Thread and Experiments | PriusChat

 

Yes, the ones that go to the batt ecu. after a while they corrode.

 

Any luck with this? I’ve got the exact same code in dr Prius
P3000, P3019, B2799, P1234, C7777

 

if it is the same, you need a new battery

 

I have an 07 with same codes (P3000, P3019, B2799, P1234, C7777) from Dr. Prius. Some history...
I just today finished putting in a brand new Toyota branded HV battery. Previous one had worsening fuel economy over a long period and finally came out with the red triangle warning. Found the bad battery cell, replaced it, and all was fine for about a month and got the red triangle again, showing another dying cell. Rather than play whack-a-mole, decided to replace entire battery and be done with it. Test driven now about 10 miles and no triangle warning, but Dr. P is giving this sequence of codes in the battery code section. As the codes don’t seem to be directly related or, for one, to even exist, I am thinking that Dr. P is getting something it wasn’t set up for reading and is interpreting as best as can be.
P3000- battery ECU problem: only one that makes sense, I think.
P3019- battery block 9 bad: might make sense except 1) new unmolested factory battery pack, and 2) same exact code as part of a sequence that others are seeing. Something special about block 9 that makes it troublesome? I doubt it.
B2799- immobilizer malfunction: again, maybe, but nothing was done to it, the car still responds to the smart keys, and too much of a pattern here. Also this is not a battery code.
P1234- fuel pump driver module: car runs, so obviously the fuel pump works, so ???? Again, not a battery code.
C7777- can’t find anything: just part of the pattern
So, I am currently ***guessing*** that the only possible legitimate code here is P3000, and the rest of it is Dr. P’s gibberish interpretation of some additional code data that follows, but I have no idea what that might be.
My question to all, especially those who have seen this same code sequence, is: does you car still work fine with no red triangle or other warning lights some period of time after seeing the above code sequence, and does the code sequence go away and (hopefully) not come back?

————————

HA HA HA, Dr. P. Very funny. Mystery solved (I hope)! Just went out and looked at it again and noticed that Dr. P had disconnected and switched to DEMO mode without me knowing, so this particular code sequence appears to be just what DEMO mode in Dr. P spits out. No actual codes showing, and my $2k+ for a new battery does not appear to have been wasted (yet). Lesson learned: Make ABSOLUTELY SURE you are looking at REAL data in Dr. P before you worry about it. They really need to add a DEMO watermark or something to the DEMO pages....

 

Seems I have the exact same problem. Didn’t have any codes checked yet but was not entirely clear on the final outcome of this situation. What ever happened?

2102 Prius v, 113K miles,

 

OP needed a new battery or at least a couple of 7.2 V modules replaced.

Dr. Prius in Demo Mode was the culprit in the other case, (post battery replacement/repair.)

moto g(7) power ?

 

Follow up: Dealer called....need to replace a “circuit board”. Had to order part. No ETA.
Repair covered under warranty. Rental car also provided.
2021 Camry SE....BRAND NEW!

I guess I really lucked out on this one.

 

Started a related thread: DTC decoding bug in Dr. Prius | PriusChat

 

DTC translation issue has been resolved on both iOS and Android Dr. Prius App, thanks again.
C7777 should be a U0777

 

Would what was formerly shown as C7777 for sure be correctly shown as U0777 ? My last guess at what the former translation was doing might still be wrong then. I would have guessed C7777 might be how it would display a C3777.

But the whole question might be moot in this case, as post #88 made it sound like that code only ever came up in a Dr. Prius 'demo' mode. For the record, I've never heard of either U0777 or C3777 as a known Prius code (and all C3 codes might still be reserved for future expansion).

 

I have a 2010 Prius. 127k miles. It was working this normal yesterday abd I went and had 4 new tires and alignment at big o tires in Glendale ca. Immediately all check hybrid lights are on. I took to Toyota first thing today. They said I need to replace battery for $4900. Seriously. It was working fine until I went to get new tires. Any idea what I need to do. Desperate.

 

ah.. from the demo mode, I can't even remember where I copy those error codes from.

I was unplugging cables from my Prius over the weekend in an effort to simulate the code starting with C, B and U, but without much luck, please let me know if you guys know an easy way to break your Prius, without actually breaking it

Jack

 

You can get a B1421 code just by being in the dark when you ask.

You can make lots of U codes by unplugging things from the CAN bus. Car will be fine when you plug them back in and clear the codes.

You can find various codes in the repair manual and see what their detection conditions are, and arrange for those to be detected.

 

@BEDRAD sorry to hear that.

old hybrid pack tend to trigger error code when you idle the car for too long and one of the weak blade drop voltage way below other blades. I bet that's what happened at the tire shop, not their fault to be honest.

you could use Dr. Prius' free feature and find out where that weak block is (just look at which block drop voltage first), then replace that block. However when you have a weak block, means others are not too far behind.FYI.

Jack

 

Along the lines of @jacktheripper:. Hybrid vehicles do not like being left ON in N. They will drain their HV batteries and not turn on the ICE to recharge them. Yours may have been put in this situation on an alignment rack and drained/hurt your battery. It may be worth a shot to just clear the codes and drive around some before worrying about needing replacement (parts).

moto g(7) power ?

 

Holy Moly! These same error codes just randomly appeared this evening when I used the Dr. Prius app on my Gen 3! Panic immediately ensued! I took a deep breath and began combing through Prius Chat and stumbled upon your post, and low and behold it was indeed the demo mode causing me to think new error codes were popping up from out of nowhere! Thank you so much for this post! You totally saved me hours of panic and research! I love this group!