Lost 10mpg after EGR clean, etc. Now losing mind!

Okay, didn't read through all the posts so I apologize if already covered.

145000 mi overheat
150000 mi work

What was the MPG between 145000 mi and 150000 mi?

Did you try pulling the OCC?

moto g(7) power ?

 

42mpg isn't bad. The most likely cause isn't the battery, it's a clogged egr. When doing repairs for customers I would never clean a part. Parts wear out. Just replace it. Your method leads to pissed off customers and comebacks. Ppl always forget to pay themselves. I love the stories of ppl who bought a car and all it needed was a.... And a...... Labor time shop tools supplies.... It all adds up my friend. Next time replace the egr. Tough advice that doesn't win you over but it's what you needed to hear. I'm sorry

 

If you’re willing to DIY and have the time, the EGR can be cleaned, to as-new condition, for peanuts. If you’re paying a mechanic, it only makes sense to reuse if you have mechanic do the wrenching but you do the cleaning.

 

Its purpose will not improve MPGs.

 

@FriedCells,

If you ever return to the forum, I have a post that may explain your low mpg's.

Would like to hear your opinion on this if you ever return.



Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Did you clean the hole at the air box and the pipe

 

Was wondering about trying a new MAP sensor....

REVVL V+ 5G ?

 

I know this is an older thread, I experienced the exact same problem after cleaning out the EGR cooler, EGR valve, intake manifold EGR ports etc etc.. I wanted to post this incase anyone else experienced the same issue. I had removed the plastic EGR cover (2 Philips tip screws) and unthreaded the housing over the valve stem (unscrews counter clockwise) to check that the valve was plunging freely, it ‘looks’ like such a simply device that self adjusts on the threads. But I became suspicious of it after my fuel economy dropped to about 40-42 because it’s the only part of the system I tampered with .. I decided to play around with the unit this morning, I pulled the EGR cover again, ensured everything inside was moving freely and I reinstalled it without threading the housing to the bottom (because it ‘appeared’ to self adjust) and the spring pressure under the housing partially unthreads the unit while you are reinstalling the cap. So I went for a test drive and the engine was misfiring, idling up and down, just running like garbage but it wasn’t throwing a code, took it for a 4 mile spin got about 36 mpg. Pulled the cap off the EGR, threaded it to the bottom of the threads, held it in place with a thin piece of metal so the spring pressure wouldn’t unthread it, then pushed the cap back over removed my tool and tightened it down. Unplugged the battery to reset the calibrations, took it for the same 4 mile route 56mpg. So I took it on a cruise to the grocery store across town, round trip high 50’s again. Average for two shorter round trip is 58 mpg. I will see if this keeps up. But I find it interesting how sensitive this device is in affecting fuel economy. It either needs to be in a specific position if you remove the cover and replace it or may be malfunctioning and need to be replaced all together. Anecdotally It seems to me if it’s not threaded all the way down to near the bottom when the cap goes on that it may hang the valve open or open further than it should, that or the device is malfunctioning. The changes in fuel economy tampering with this device were significant, and the engine running terribly wasn’t even throwing a code. Just thought I’d share for others if they were experiencing something similar.

 

On my second EGR cleaning I did manage to get the cap off the valve, and when reassembling did similar: there’s a little slot on the base of valve housing; you can restrain the rotating bit (from unwinding upwards) by holding a pin in that slot and against the shaft, as you put the cap back on.

 

It does hang a little bit open at that moment.

I don't recommend approaching it that way, though, because if you do you are sacrificing a good opportunity to confirm your successful reassembly of the valve.

Instead, just reassemble the valve the easy way. The pintle will be slightly open when you are done. Put your thumbs on it then and push it closed. It should move easily and smoothly, and you hear a smooth whirrr-tok as the rotor easily spins inside and stops at the ski jump.

If it doesn't move easily and smoothly, or you hear any sound of scraping or dragging, not a nice whirr and tok at the stop, you know something is amiss.

Otherwise, you've confirmed it's mechanically ok, and it is now closed.