Water Pump

I read YOU change them out anyway at around 100k anyway but they can go longer as I changed mine at jyst over 180k and it was because I put too much HG sealer in that finished it off.

You may try not throwing that money into the pump next time until it gives that code P261B then you know its time.

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Wow...I guess these Gen3's have dropped so much in value we can now just start having extra's lying around!
Darn Headgaskets

 

I think there is a code when engine overheats

 

Depending on if you got the latest J0V update it will just shut down all power and throw all lights, very dangerous gamble they are taking.

But we are just testing their prototypes as they come out and they make new ones all the time.

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I also rely on my scangauge

 

J0V update pertains to electronic failure in the inverter. Squat to do with engine temp.

 

Tell that to my still running prius with P261B, P3022, P3024, P0A80 that completely shut down with all lights and no power. Thats no power steering or engine power.

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And....that is just right after I got rid of these two codes by replacing the two rear wheel hubs with speed sensors. C1259 & C1310

Yea I would say with 100% accuracy that the J0V update has issues and will shut your prius down for no good reason.

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Yes, this is exactly what happened to me.

When it happened, I had about 175k.

Engine light did not turn on. Only sign was that I happened to look at the display and I saw the high temperature light come on for a few seconds and then turned off.

Granted I also had a scan gauge so I did see the water temperature spike up to about 203-205.

Opened the hood and engine coolant boiled over.

Thought it was the hot summer months, climbing the hill or maybe the radiator cap but it happened again on a cool day while running on a flat freeway at 65 mph.

Drove straight to my mechanic and OBD2 diagnostics results did show the engine water pump was failing but has not failed completely for engine light to turn on.

Replaced the engine water pump and thermostat for good measure. All good now.

Driven the car to Arizona twice and once to Las Vegas since the replacement with no problems.

 

That will save me a lot of time if mine ever shuts down in a similar way. Ordinarily, I might look for the explanation, but thanks to your 100% accuracy I will know it could only be the J0V update I had done two years ago. You've systematically ruled out everything else.

And shame on Toyota for filling their repair manual with false information about what their trouble codes mean. They thought they could deceive us, but with you here, they never stood a chance.

 

@ Ol' chapman

I can say that in my experience with these codes I listed I can say 100% my statement is true and correct.

Now this is where you ask yourself is toyota 100% fixing the issue of the failing IPM or are they just slapping a bandaid patch, two of them actually.

E0E & J0V applied to the software for that failing IPM.

These updates are to save the system from catastrophic failure and shut everything down.


So if you have a waterpump that is going bad and is throwing a P261B code at some point if you do not change it, it WILL shut everything down 100%

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That's so awesome! So can I! Have you tried saying it while holding your nose? Then it sounds like "wood hiddred percedt by statemedt is true idd correct."

Now, can you say olymakityluchachichichi?

E0E is to prolong the life of the IPM by avoiding cases of high heat followed by too-rapid cooling. J0V is to not shut everything down, but go to limp-mode instead, in one case where "shut everything down" is what would happen without J0V.

This is published information you're allowed to read if you get curious.

Once you've worked out the rest of the details connecting the engine water pump to the firmware managing the IPM in the inverter (whose cooling system is separate), can't hurt to post 'em. Then we'll know if you're onto something.

 

That is the problem, before the J0V my car was already capable to go into limp mode.

After the J0V update and once I got the codes I mentioned before which set off the complete shut down of power was the P261B to protect everything.

Think for a second....
What happens if the engine keeps running as it overheats?



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As it still is, in the cases that transitioned to limp mode before. There are a lot of those. J0V adds one more, which was previously a transition to OFF mode. That one was only triggered if an IPM failed at just the right point in a power waveform so the sudden current delta was picked up as a spike in another nearby circuit inside the inverter housing. Must have been fun to track down. Again, published and available for you to read.

So there used to be N conditions that would cause a transition to limp mode, and J0V added another one, making it a transition to limp mode instead of to OFF. Now there are N+1 transitions that go to limp mode. That's what J0V does.

Now you have a car that you say transitioned to OFF on an entirely different condition, and the J0V update is what you think did that?

It's like having a locksmith come fix a broken lock on your back door. Then somebody comes in through your kitchen window, and you blame the new lock on the door. For someone as fond of saying "Think for a second" as you are....

According to the repair manual, this:



I'm not quite curious enough to go disable my water pump and run the engine to 105℃ to see what happens, but my past experience has been pretty much that when the manual says the car does X, the car does X.

 

And you undoubtably get a dash message saying to park safely and shut it down, something to that effect.

 

@chap

I would never blame the locksmith and I am the only one to change the locks.

You are quick to refuse actual experience testimonials.

I guess you soley rely on the big Corp to take care of all your needs.

Forget I mentioned anything to you.
This information will be here for those who actually want to learn something.

You see, when you think you know everything, you never learn anything.

And yes all lights get lit up and the whole system shut down with no power steering or engine power.

My wife and daughter were in the car when it happened and they freaked out and got out.

That is the day I had to reset the codes multiple times just to get home.

Lucky for us we were up the street.
This is why if for the very IPM failing I had mentioned before in other threads if the IPM can fail intermittently?

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So just to make it clear regarding the actual post and my experience with the code P261B and if you have any codes related to the hybrid battery.

Like a weak hybrid battery or on the way out one like most people here.

Your engine will shut down with no electric help and all lights on the dash will light up, no overheating warning about engine temp.

This is what happend to my car and I have the latest J0V update.

If you do not yet have it or need it then perhaps your car will stay on with electric power?

But then I would think that the IPM and inverter would get overheated and fry itself since it did not know how to save itself from overheating properly like it has been proven and they try to patch it all up with two updates and some jargon to keep the lawyers content in court and no more pressure from the courts.

Not to mention the engine block itself which is attached to that waterpump this thread is about and it is all thought about in the latest J0V update, which is to protect the car and toyota.

They do NOT care about us, they have our money and contracts and information to report you quickly to credit agencies and damage your credit, meanwhile we are testing their cars and recalls and they do not listend fast when we report things.

Takes years and years of complaints to get a recall pushed through in courts and legal battles.



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Actual experience testimonials are great, but they only tell what you actually experienced.

In your case, that this happened:

and it happened while you were driving with a known bad water pump and a known bad traction battery at the same time.

That's the experience. Once you move from the experience itself to telling us why you think your car shut down, let alone whether a firmware update related to neither the battery nor the water pump was responsible, you have moved into diagnosis. And that's a fine thing to do, but the less interested you are in learning how the stuff you're trying to diagnose even works, the less you can expect your diagnosis to hold water.

You almost seem to be thinking that because an IPM failure is one reason you've heard of for the car to shut down, if the car shuts down, then it must have something to do with IPM failure. But that's like hearing that people named Alice are usually female, then thinking anybody female must be Alice.