Another noob headgasket question...

Get a long file. Lay it flat across the block and/or head. Drag it from one end to the other, the full length of the block. Two or three times will take care of that.

 

The roloc disk you are waiting for is way more harmful then draw filing the head and block. The other option is to get some 1000 or 1500 grit sand paper and glue it abrasive side out to a piece of glass, and lightly sand the surface clean.

 

1000 or 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a piece of glass or finished plywood. Make sure the glass/wood can reach all the way across the block. That is the best and safest way to clean up the block or bottom of the head.


There is a standard for surface finish that Toyota recommends the block be finished to. Short of removing the block and having it surfaced, light sanding until the texture is all the same is the way to go. It should only take a minute or two of light sanding to get you where you need to be.

 

The important thing is this, the gasket can and will seal some surface imperfections. But the smoother and flatter the surface is, the better off you will be.

 

Not sure if the block would be the same, but @The Critic mentioned restoring the head to a surface finish of 20rA in his HG thread.

Stay with the MLS, though I'm curious about the composite, if you have the part # handy. Now that @The Critic has been pinged, you might get some additional input on the finish etc. Be sure to read his linked thread for tips and missing parts that might be helpful.

 

When I was cleaning my Gen 3 head to install on the Gen 4 block, I did the sandpaper on a board treatment to knock down the high spots. I did 1000 followed up with the 1500. 30 seconds to a minute was all it took per grade of paper. But the finish recommended is the same for the block or head. Flat, smooth, and clean.


Now that the head is off is a great time to rotate the crank so all pistons are half way up/down the bore and pour a can of Seafoam or Lucas Engine Treatment in each cylinder. Take the crud off the top of the pistons and also soak thru to the rings as well. Just make sure to drain the oil pan and refill with fresh oil before restarting after assembly.

 

I personally did not follow up with 3000. Mine has lived the last 25k miles and not lost a drop of any antifreeze.

 

That is pitting, representative of what happens when combustion gasses meet coolant. You can work at it until they completely disappear, or when you can “see it and not feel it” call it good to go. If they are small, say the tip of a ball point pen, they should be ok.

 

FWIW what I've done with old valve cover material (different car) is apply some acetone and use a fresh razor blade to scrape off material. I keep the blade as flush as possible to avoid scratching. Then wipe off with paper towel. It worked well.

 

The angle in the pics looks like pitting. I think you’ll be fine if you go for it.

 

There's hard plastic "razor blades" available; I keep meaning to order some, for wheel weight adhesive residue. And a 3M spray adhesive remover, might be this:

3M 38983 General Purpose Adhesive Remover - 12 oz.

In that link there's also a link to plastic razor blades.

 

When the 'gasket blasters' did a complete (for them) head gasket replacement in under 2 hrs total, they used a can of brake cleaner and a razor blade to very briefly clean up the surfaces.

Maybe try one of those "magic eraser" sponges, and report back if it works. If not concerned about contamination, some have used scrotchbrite sponges and WD40.

If you're still full on OCD, this product is supposed to work quite well : 18 oz Chisel Gasket Remover | Fastenal