2008 Prius won’t start

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First check the voltage at the jump point under the hood, and again at the 12v battery.

It might finally be time for a new Speedometer / Combination meter, you can attempt the DIY fix and replace some capacitors, or you can buy one with a lifetime warranty at : Prius Speedometer Replacement

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Assuming that the only change since the car was last working is the interior light left on, the problem might be the new AGM battery. Can you measure the voltage at the battery? Is it a healthy 12.3v -12.6v? Sometimes new batteries are sitting on the store for 2-3 months and voltage drops. If not charge the new battery before you troubleshoot further.

 

+1

 

Sounds like a potential reverse polarity jump that popped the main fusible link in the underhood engine compartment. (especially if one fuse was also found to be open already)

On the left side of the fuse box, there is a white plastic assembly with a clear cover. at the top of the assembly is the underhood jump point. The area circled in the below photo is the fusible link section that usually blows when jumpers are connected backwards. Look through the clear plastic and see if that little thin metal strip is melted. If it is, then that's your problem. Also, if it is melted, you may want to check the regular fuses again. Many times, 2 or 3 fuses pop, not just one.

 

Yes, it looks melted to me. Looks like there's a little blob of melted copper and a gap. easy? Yes. About a 20 minute job for me, but I've done a dozen or so. What is your level of DIY experience? That white plastic assembly has to be taken loose, pulled upward to access 4 bolts that fasten conductors to it, and pop two plugs off the bottom. Then install the replacement, without dropping any of the small bolts down into the area under the fuse box. It can be a challenge for the inexperienced.

If you want to tackle it, I would suggest finding a local salvage yard that has a gen 2. Use that car to learn how to remove it. That way mistakes won't matter, plus you can get a replacement assembly for 5 bucks instead of 40 or 50 bucks.

 

Now, here's a photo of what it will look like if the clear plastic is removed.

 

And now, with much trepidation about the feedback I'm going to receive, here is an emergency alternative that can be used to get the car to a repair shop. I'm in no way advocating this as anything other than an emergency repair to either get oneself out of a bad situation or to get the car to a repair shop for proper repair. I feel this isn't a dangerous temporary situation, as the reason for blowing the fusible link is known to be a reverse jump, not some unknown fault lying in wait. And it only costs 8 cents, which can be refunded after the proper repair. Maybe working a couple decades in industrial maintenance has led me to become a bit more understanding of the need for sometimes making crisis repairs that are not completely legit, but will get you where you need to be to make the right repair. If this was a nuke plant, hell no. A prius? why not...

 

The dome light and some other stuff that also is on that same circuit are protected by the DOME fuse in the front fuse box.

Check that it is not blown. When checking fuses, don't just look at them to decide if they're good or not. Use a DMM (digital (or can be analog) multimeter) on the resistance (Ω) setting; use this to check for continuity.

The locations of the fuses are detailed on the underside of the fuse box lid.

 

Good job!! It can be a pain. I typically remove the 12v supply cable and covers, then use a small flathead screwdriver to pull hold each locking tab back while inserting the tip of a small ziptie into the gap to prevent the locking tab from engaging again. Then its a matter of wiggling it upward, disconnecting the fuse holder at the bottom, wiggling it up some more and then getting the cable fasteners. It can definitely be a pain in the neck.

 

this gave me a awesome laugh for a lot longer than It should have ,, Saddly I think when i go look at mine tomorrow in daylight this maybe a issue looking at..