EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results

@James Analytic I saw no reason to disconnect 12 volt for EGR, intake manifold cleaning, encountered no issues.

I definitely would (disconnect 12 volt) whenever brake caliper are being lifted off the rotors though; there's at least a couple of good reasons. Don't reconnect until everything is fully reassembled AND you've pushed the brake pedal multiple times, taken out any excess pedal travel.

I've done a full EGR clean once, intake manifold a couple of times, and had the throttle body off maybe 4 times. Only 88k kms on our 2010, but fwiw haven't replaced any gaskets yet. If I do the intake again, say in a few more years, I might replace all the pliable gaskets on the intake.

 

I'm now thinking about the intake and MAF sensors cleaning while at it. Thinking for the throttle body to use some acetone on a rag and then spray the rag with some carb cleaner and wipe the throttle body clean. Throttle Body Cleaner that this MSDS section 3 shows as being pretty much Carb cleaner formula from Walmart (I know, not exactly the same though mostly Acetone, n-Heptane and Toluene... the CO2 will just gas off).

CRC 05678 Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner MSDS
https://docs.crcindustries.com/MSDS/5678.pdf

Walmart Carb Cleaner:
http://www.mrsi.org/SDS/super%20tech%20carburetor%20cleaner.pdf

Anyone used anything other than throttle body cleaner, thoughts or concerns?

Wondering about CRC MAF Sensor cleaner and maybe using CRC QD Electronics Contact cleaner capabilities:
http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/5110.pdf

QD Electronics Contact Cleaner
http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/72130e.pdf (best equivalent formula)
http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/3130.pdf (different propellant)

 

FWIW, I don't see any reason not to disconnect the 12V. I disconnected mine during my EGR, intake manifold, and throttle body cleaning as well as PCV valve replacement, and had no problems. I thought I remember reading that there was some concern of the throttle body or some other valve being in a different position than before/expected after cleaning, which was why it was recommended to disconnect the 12V? No idea if this is true, but I did it just in case.

As for what to use to clean the throttle body, I thought I read that you could strip some sort of coating in the throttle body if you used the wrong stuff? I just used CRC throttle body cleaner due to that.

As for the MAF and MAP sensors, those are pretty easy to do while doing the other stuff. They're supposedly very delicate, so all I did was spray them down with CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Also be careful not to strip the fasteners for those sensors.

 

Some throttle bodies maybe have lube at the plate hinge points? If you just use carb cleaner sprayed on cloth you shouldn't have trouble.

CRC MAF sensor cleaner is what I used, the good stuff. FWIW it looked super clean to begin with.

 

Was wondering what the technicalities are regarding. Didn't think about a coating or even the interfaces. Will go invest in a two pack of the CRC. I'll take photos as I disassemble to document to assure more I replace in the correct positions as found.

Just realized I don't have a 22mm either for the PCV Valve after watching this video, before I get past opening the hood.

The 7/8" probably will work... though thinking not a bad idea to invest in a 22mm while out to get the cleaners.

 

You'll also need 22mm if you ever plan to do anything with the struts. Specifically, the 2 strut bolts connecting each strut to the steering knuckle (?).

 

Glad you noted... I was wondering when searching and one 22mm socket suggested was related to struts. Haven't looked into replacing the struts yet, other than watching the Outer Cowel Top Pan Sub-Assembly removal in a video or two noting also allowing access to the struts.

 

When I measured the PCV Valve intake shaft, I found is ~5/8". Decided after sticking my finger in the stock rubber ventilation hose to see how deep the ~5/8" depth is on the inside and finding chunks of carbon, and for a second I thought the plastic from the intake manifold since so crispy, as in the linked video and attached image... I decided I'm going to run 5/8" Fuel/PCV hose from the OCC. Man, that's huge and chunky stuff!!!

Unfortunately double delay with; no local 5/8" Fuel/EGR hose and UPS gave the package to USPS mid day, so the hose won't be at O'rielly's until 11am and the OCC won't be here until mid day tomorrow when USPS delivers. They wouldn't let me return the 5ft of 3/8" hose either since I returned, then got with the battery core gift card and the gal threw away the roll since I bought the last 10ft length off the role with SKU info.

Anyone want to perform a PCV Valve relocation since I'm not sure what I'm going to use the remaining hose for... maybe garden tractors though they're not usually over 1/4" line? :-|)

However, was a great disassembly first time run for me to get down to where I did. The PDF's with specs are super helpful to know what to torque to, have a visual for removal and install and are the procedures for the maintenance. Handy to use with the laptop, appreciate those Mendel as with everyone else's details being typed, photo or video!

Also, was able to purchase the CRC Throttle Body & Air Intake and MAF sensor cleaner pack I found locally for ~$8. Will take another road trip at a later date for a Craftsman 22mm deep well impact. I'm trying to invest in better quality sockets like the E's that were a Craftsman set (or at least I hope they're real Craftsman).

 

Gen four is theorized to have an EGR system less prone to clogging due to picking up exhaust after the cat. But it also has a larger cooler, which I'm thinking might clog less quickly even if picking up exhaust before the cat.

Has anyone tried or looked into swapping a gen four egr cooler into a gen 3?

 

What you're talking about is Gen 4's change to 'catalyzed EGR', a different EGR approach that appeared in engineering circles between the introductions of Gen 3 and Gen 4. It changes a lot of things: the chemistry of the gas is different because it has been through the catalyst, its effect in the combustion chamber is different because of the chemistry, its pressure is lower because of the drop across the cat, the plumbing is all resized to flow the intended amount of gas at the lower pressure, and the EGR valve opening curves programmed into the ECM are calibrated for all of that.

It wasn't a matter of some Toyota guys at a water cooler saying "hey, d'ya think it'd clog less if we tapped after the cat?"

The existing threads around here where people have tried the Gen 4 plumbing with a Gen 3 ECM and exhaust have never had a happy result that I've seen. The main thing seems to be the upsized plumbing meant to flow adequately at Gen 4's lower pressure flows too much EGR and the engine runs like cr❢p. So people think of trying to somehow restrict it by the right amount, whatever that is, and I don't think I've seen a thread yet that ends "and now I'm happy with how the engine runs."

 

To everyone that has toiled over cleaning out the EGR cooler...what's your ideal pricepoint for buying a second cooler (whether already cleaned or not)? I'm feeling like if I can save a couple hours then $125-150 isn't a terrible price to pay.

 

I searched different junk yards around the country and found one for $55, free shipping.
It wasn't clogged, but very sooty. I cleaned it with my pressure washer, then oven cleaner.
The 3rd time with the oven clean and the water cleared up.

 

If you're trying to save time: buy a pressure washer for $100 or less (electric 1500-ish psi) and set of long brass brushes (I've seen them here in threads but don't have myself). Use them for about 20 minutes total and call it good. It won't be absolutely perfect but the rest is OCD IMHO.

 

I paid $90 for a spare cooler and valve 5 years ago.

Then the pressure washer opened my eyes to not needing that investment any longer.

Sold that setup for $80 a few years ago.

 

I bought the egr cooler and did 5 cars already. I just picked up an extra intake manifold last week. I'm going to see if I can pressure wash the intake manifold sometime this week.

 

Sounds like you have been busy.

Give the manifold cleaning a shot.

And keep us posted on the result.

 

Don't waist your time with pressure wash, it's only for outside part of intake manifold...
I had this experience and the best result and clean channels inside intake manifold was with sodium hydroxide.
You can see my results here
Prius Gen 3 strange noise during slow acceleration

 

Rinse VERY thoroughly. Maybe squirt all the threaded embeds with something like WD40 after too. Basic cleaners (Oxi Clean for example) are quite effective and safe for the stainless steel cooler, but with the intake manifold any residue will cause corrosion between the threaded inserts and bolts that screw into them.

My 2 cents: for the intake manifold, brake cleaner is safest, and effective enough.

 

OVEN CLEANER actually CLEANS the cooler, pressure washer clears it out really good.
You can use the pressure washer on the intake manifold, but GUNK works really well and doesn't hurt it.
Do not use it on the EGR Valve! Brake/Carb cleaner and a wire brush works good for that.
Gunk with a small gun bore brush with a drill will clear the egr passages quickly and easily. You'll only
need a few passes to clean them out.

 

Did this same job after reading all the great posts on this forum on my 2013 for the second time last month. First time at 109k I used 3 cans of break clean and 1 can of throttle body cleaner (probably got EGR 80% clean. This time at 182k used a small 1200 PSI pressure washer which did an awesome job on the EGR Cooler (wear eye protection as the stuff blasts everywhere). Also used it on the Manifold, and egr pipe. Used Purple power soak on the EGR cooler after the water blast (like factory new when done). Used a little brake clean on the EGR, and Throttle body on the removed Throttle body. My middle son is a Toyota tech who does periodic Prius engine replacements and gave me some extra parts (EGR circuits, coil packs, injectors) off the dead motors (the blown head gasket/dead motors EGR coolers are always 100% clogged). I tried cleaning the spares a few different ways and found the power sprayer purple power as my personal best practice.