When you do brake bleeding, it is actually better if can do one step further of bleeding the air in ABS. This will prolong the life of the brake master pump and abs actuator. These two components cost more expensive than the hybrid battery. However, the ABS air bleeding can only be done using techstream or other advance OBD2 system. Here is a video on doing it for those who have techstream. If you don't, get this done at dealership and know what they are charging you for.
It differs from the procedure I have followed from the Toyota repair manual for my 2010. I would recommend using the repair manual directly as the source for the steps of bleeding. The full procedure, as I remember on my 2010, involves bleeding the rears (easy, with continuous pumping, as the video shows), bleeding the fronts a first time (more fussily, with repeat application of the pedal, gets the air out of the fail-safe passages), bleeding the fronts a second time (easy, power pumped like the rears, gets the air out of the normal-operation passages), bleeding the stroke simulator (access to its bleed valve requires removing the cowl, at least on US cars, which is best done before starting the whole process), then winds up with half a dozen rounds of zeroing down the accumulator and pumping at back up, and an automatic relearn of the linear solenoid valve offset (which usually works, but sometimes needs you to re-do that specific procedure after). Techstream steps you through which of those things to do in what order. When doing the step where the fronts are power-bled, be careful: the front lines are short, less flow resistance than the rears, and the fluid gushes out really fast; you can empty the reservoir and suck air in (go back to start, do not collect $200) before you know it. As you can see, several of those steps seem to go unmentioned in the video (though I had the sound off, so i just saw what was shown and what was captioned).
