Prius Gen 2 P0A90-239 and P0335 codes

After replacing your transaxle you are left with:

• the wire harness or connector
• the HV control ECU

as problem areas, that is assuming the transmission input damper is in good working order in the transaxle you swapped in. There have been instances where this has needed to be replaced.

I'd clear the P0A90 before looking at the other code. Bad advice, see later posts.

 

You will need Techstream or a good pro-level third party code reader that will read multiple make/model cars.

The best source of "how to" information is the repair manual (more info). You can try using the advance search (click on the "More..." button on the window that pops up when you go into the search field at the top right of every page) option to limit your searches to the Gen 2 forums and their children.

I believe I recollect a YouTube video on the transmission input damper, but can't recall whether it was replacing or inspecting. I also can't recall if that video was linked to from a post here (highly likely) or not.

Good luck with your quest.

Inspection Procedure | DTC P0A90/239 | Drive Motor ”A” Performance

 

As @dolj kindly mentioned, the Repair Manual (more info) has step-by-step troubleshooting procedures for both DTCs you’ve mentioned, and I’d start there, before replacing parts.

The procedure for P0A90/239 says to troubleshoot engine DTCs first; this includes DTC P0335, which your car has reported. The authors don’t explain the reason for this, but I will here: the HV control ECU’s judgment for the P0A90/239 code relies on valid information from the ECM about how fast the crankshaft is turning. If the ECM’s information is unreliable—as suggested by the P0335 code—then the HV control ECU’s conclusions about a problem in the transaxle, damper, or shaft are also unreliable.

The procedure for P0335 says to measure the resistance of the crankshaft position sensor first; this should be 985 to 1,600 Ω with the engine cold, or 1,265 to 1,890 Ω with the engine hot. Have you checked this?

If that’s OK, the next step is to check the wire harness between the sensor (connector C7) and the ECM (connector E4). Terminal C7-1 should connect to terminal E4-33 (NE+), and terminal C7-2 should connect to terminal E4-34 (NE-), and none of these should be shorted to body ground. The Electrical Wiring Diagram (more info) gives the wire colors: red at C7-1 and green at C7-2. The latter is connected indirectly, via junction connector J14, which is also connected to the camshaft position sensor.

The procedure has more steps—for example, checking the teeth on the crankshaft sensor plate—but I’d check the wiring first.

 

@Elektroingenieur, thanks for adding your expertise to this thread.

That makes a lot of sense. I didn't look into the procedure close enough and totally missed that.

 

If you mean a clickety-clack sound reminiscent of a sewing machine that lasts 50 - 60 seconds, then no that does not indicate shaft damage. It is the normal stage 1 setting of the variable valve timing. It sets it this way to warm the engine as quickly as possible. In this mode, if you drive it will try to use the electric motors as much as possible to push the car along.

There shouldn't be oil anywhere there, it should be all clean and dry. So, I would clean that all up and then investigate further as to if (and if so, where) there is a leak. If it is a leak, then that will need to be remedied. Could it possibly be contamination from an oil spill from a poor filling event?

 

Pls how did you finally fix this issue. The Dame thing happened to me. I have P0A0F, P0335, C1259 and C1310. The resistance on the crankshaft position sensor readis 1145.
My car is 2012 prius.

Pls someone help

 

Pls how did you finally fix this issue. The Dame thing happened to me. I have P0A0F, P0335, C1259 and C1310. The resistance on the crankshaft position sensor readis 1145.
My car is 2012 prius.

Pls someone help

 

Keep tracing the crankshaft sensor issue. P0335 from the engine control module indicates that.

P0A0F is just the power management control ECU saying "something must be wrong with the engine, won't start", and C1259 and C1310 are both nothing but the brake ECU saying "the power management control ECU has reported a code".

So there should be significant improvement as soon as the ECM is able to know where the crankshaft is.

 

Ì

There is something the original poster is saying we didn't really pay attention to and he didn't really explain well.
He been having a knocking and rattling noise. Before this issue happened.
I have this same.
I have tried all said here expect one.

I read somewhere that reluctor wheel or ring could course P0335 if it is damaged.
Pls how don I check the teeth on the crankshaft sensor platenor check reluctor wheel ring?

 

There is something the original poster is saying we didn't really pay attention to and he didn't really explain well.
He been having a knocking and rattling noise. Before this issue happened.
I have this same.
I have tried all said here expect one.

I removed my HV Battery and charged it externally. I nolonger have C1259 and C1310. I only have P0335 And P0A0F.
My crankshaft position sensor reads 1145 at cold.

I read somewhere that reluctor wheel or ring could course P0335 if it is damaged.
Pls how don I check the teeth on the crankshaft sensor plate or check reluctor wheel ring?