How to Program a New Key Fob for Full SKS Functionality

Hi Jason,
DO NOT buy the remote from that site. In their blurb, they say, "This remote must be programmed by Toyota dealer or a local car locksmith" and " Yes, immobilizer reset required" which is how they tell you this is a new case with used innards. And more expensive than a NEW OEM key.
Typical cost to program this at a dealer or locksmith is much more than with a new key, probably $300+. Various sellers on Amazon and EBay with "Keyless" in their name sell similar products. STAY AWAY!!

Key prices seem to change from diff. dealers.

Several options.
The LEAST expensive is to buy a dumb key with the RFID in the head of a metal key.
Two for $62, BUT you have to poke the head of the key into the slot (it won't stay) and remember to poke your finger in the slot to release it when you stop the car. The metal key will open the door. After you program these, put the smart key away somewhere safe, so you can use it to set up the smart keys you buy when you get a bit ahead.
2X Toyota Smart Key Backup Remote Prius Silver and Black Logo 2004 to 2009 | eBay
These can be set up with the chicken dance. I have one.


NEW OEM keys-
.toyotapartsdeal.com says they have the OEM which doesn't have the metal key (buy other toyota key and cut) 89904-47011 $133
McGeorge toyota $126
Transmitter \\\\\\ Use 89994-47061 for transmitter with key///// - Toyota (89904-47011) | Toyota Parts
norwalktoyota $125

New aftermarket keys--??
USARemotes on amazon has an SKS aftermarket which they CLAIM you can program, $120
Ditto seller "extra-partss" on EBay, has an SKS aftermarket which they CLAIM you can program, $99
UPDATE--
NO YOU CAN'T!! - Message from Extra-partss:
"Thank you for the information. If your remote has a Silver Toyota Logo on back there is no manual on board procedure to program this remote. This remote will require special equipment to be connected the vehicle to program the remote. "
YMMV

How techie are you?

The other option is to buy a mini-vci cable and reverse engineered Techstream software, buy used silver keys and reset the car by this technique:
"Once you get techstream with a cable and you have a Seed code you will need to reset the immobilizer codes."
It is possible to program a used silver key with techstream. | PriusChat
Will the cheap mini VCI work?
MINI VCI for Toyota Single Cable Supports Toyota TIS OEM
The cheapie cable is $15, and used keys go for $40-70, reset Seed codes sell for 5/$30 and up. IF it works, and it doesn't take you a week, that would be a good deal. This approach is relatively recent. Basically you're buying reverse engineered software to do what locksmiths and the dealership charges big bucks for.
If you do it post and let us know how it goes. I may try it too. My daughter just lost the last smart key....

 

From Extra partss regarding their silver logo replacement:
"If your remote has a Silver Toyota Logo on back there is no manual on board procedure to program this remote. This remote will require special equipment to be connected to the vehicle to program the remote."

 

Did you check the KEY button under the steering column? Could be you bumped it and turned off SKS.

 

This is a great guide! I'm in a bit of a pickle myself.

I lost my wife's SKS key and was locked out of our 2007 Prius Touring Edition. Fortunately, I had programmed the FOB from my 2008 Prius Standard Issue, so although its an SKS key, it only has the ability to start the car when physically in the ignition. It does not lock/unlock doors on the 2007 with the FOB, and the mechanical key is obviously for the 2008 car which it was originally assigned.

I ordered some locksmith tools online and was able to manually unlock the 2007 and once my 2008 FOB was in the ignition and started, the panic alarm stopped.

So, I'm pretty much currently in an "All Keys Lost" scenario. I have ordered a brand new OEM SKS key, so my questions are as follows:

1) Since I have a spare SKS key from my 2008, can I simply reassign it and gain full SKS functionality on the 2007 ("upgrade" its current functionality to also unlock doors and add smart access? Without the original 2007 SKS key and purely by doing the programming method above?)
2) Can I program the new OEM SKS FOB Key (it arrives tomorrow) from scratch ("Add a Key") WITHOUT having to have a locksmith come in and reset the ECU with a programming computer?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

 

1) No and no.

2) No. You would need Techstream and access to a seed code to do basically what you would pay a suitably competent and knowledgable auto locksmith. See link back in post #621.

 

Thank you for the expeditious response. I did make an attempt to no avail before receiving it using the same FOB for “original” and “new.” portions. It obviously didn’t work. I think the max number of FOBs have been programmed anyway because I got a double door lock during the SKS (“Procedure B”) portion of adding the key. I purchased the vehicle used with only 1 FOB.

I have an auto locksmith coming out tomorrow to program the virgin key and cut the mechanical key.

Am I correct that the process is to do an ECU reset with “All Keys Lost” with the programmer, then I would be able to add the virgin SKS key as the new Master, and then subsequently re-add the spare I’m using now from my other Prius?

And once the ECU is reset, is it possible to have my 2008 SKS key also have SKS functionality on the 2007? I kinda like the idea of hitting the lock button and checking to make sure both cars are secured in the driveway. Not a necessity, but is it a possibility?

I was an Apple Tech, so I know just enough to be dangerous!

 

If you get txtreme up and running you can program a new set of keys. besides techstream you will need to pay a service to generate a response from the seed code process.

I usually have some extra codes available but you can buy them yourself through questionable grey market European web sites.

 

No, you cannot use SKS and non-SKS fobs interchangeably (except for the very limited function of inserting the key fob into the slot to start the car). Also, the SKS functionality vs non-SKS is hardware dependant and you also need the matching key fob to go with it. You need a bunch of Tx/Rx units and cabling. I'm not sure if the ECU side of things is different between SKS and non-SKS, so not sure of the feasibility of retrofitting SKS to a non-SKS car. Can't honestly remember if anyone has documented doing here on PriusChat.

 

How would you do this if you do not have a master key already? When I bought my used 2013 Prius C (no SKS), only the valet key was provided. All these steps seem to require that you have a working master key. For what its worth, I have the OBD2 MVCI cable + Toyota Techstream working, but it will not let me register a new key with the Immobiliser unless I use a pre-existing Master key (which I do not have).

 

I bought a SKS fob on Amazon this weekend and it included the "chicken dance" instructions, almost verbatim with the procedure in the OP.

I successfully programmed the key this morning since I still had one that worked. This was my second time replacing a fob and it was quicker than my first time, when I was less familiar with the procedure.

Note: the description for the item has the correct FCC ID but the fob itself doesn't have any Toyota logo (black or silver) on the back. I swapped the back from my old flooded fob onto the new one so I'd have the silver logo denoting an SKS fob.

 

Hi all, thanks for the instructions!

I have a 2006 non SKS car with the black logo fob.
One day (while out surfing in the winter) the unlock button stopped working on the fob but the lock and starting the car still worked. (luckily I live close to the beach so the walk home to get the physical key wasn't too long).

I didn't know about the 2 different kinds of keys so ordered a set of 2 proximity keys from eBay for $120USD.

The arrived last night and after reading this thread I started to panic as I had ordered the wrong ones. Proximity /SKS is for silver logo and non SKS is the Black logo. I figured id try it anyway as why not.

Procedure A worked on both the new key fobs on the very first try and the new ones can start the car.

Because I have the black logo fob, I used procedure C and it failed every time... Maybe 5 times each keyfob.

I then thought id give procedure B a try because why not. It failed the first couple of times, but worked on the 3rd (I think it was the speed of hitting the power button 3 times that makes it work).

I then tried it on the second new Key and it worked first time.

So I now have 2 new keys that lock/unlock and start the car!!

Super stoked, so thanks to you guys here!

 

Do I understand correctly that you have a non SKS car (no black button on outside door handles and no key disable switch on lower dash under the steering wheel) which came with a black logo RKE fob that worked to lock and unlock the doors, but you were able to program two silver logo SKS fobs to lock and unlock the doors? I though the two types of fobs had incompatible transmitters.

 

Yes, I was wondering the same. It sounds more like he has SKS and does not know it.

 

I got the keyfobs from ebay that had the word proximity in the add. I assume they are SKS due to that proximity wording(maybe they are misadvertised, and that could explain a lot!

I live in New Zealand, My car is a jap import, left hand drive. Black logo on the original keyfob, no black button on the doors and no switch under the dash. And they worked using the methods I stated above.

 

We drive on the LHS of the road, but our (and Japans's) cars are RHD.

In that case, and given your experience, I lean to the advertisement being incorrect. They probably used the word proximity meaning remote. Lucky for you then the mistake fell in your favour.

 

Were the fobs new or used and do they have a silver, black or no logo on the back?

The fact that procedure C did not work but procedure did work is bothering me.

I have been researching key programming since I bought a 2006 SKS project car at auction with no keys. I used the $12 Toyota Smart Keymaker to program the transponder chip in two beat up used Ebay fobs One is silver logo SKS and the other had an aftermarket case with no logo and was advertised as a smart key but is in fact RKE (non-SKS). Smart entry and RKE experiments are on the list, seats are out cleaning carpet and the ECU will not start the car in that condition

 

Yes, what an idiot, I mean right hand drive not left (we drive on the left) .

I also think I got lucky and bought the "wrong" kind that worked out being the right kind.

 

Try were brand new with no logos on the back.

At the time of doing it Procedure C definitely didn't work for me but B did 2x in a row.

I just read the procedures again and do you think that the fact my unlock button wasn't working on the original remote means I just locked the door at step 9a... Thinking that noise was a cycle?

The only real difference between B and C is holding both buttons down on the old remote in B, So maybe I just had everything else's timing down better after trying a few times? I think I need to edit my original post as its going to confuse others and maybe give them false hope.

I'm starting to believe procedure C would have worked if I had the timing down a bit better? Meaning I bought the correct key that was misadvertised (lucky me) and procedure C did actually work?

 

OK, definitely a non-SKS car and original non-SKS black logo fob with a broken unlock button. The new fobs with the no logo after market cases have either knock off or refurbished OEM insides. If you ever open one up I guess looking at the circuit board inside might dentify them.

For what it is worth, both the Toyota service manual and the Advanced Diagnostics key programmer documentation say you only need to press one (any) key on the old remote for programming SKS smart entry. I suspect that pressing lock and unlock usually works but occasionally messes up which is why some people have to repeat that step, but I cannot test it since I currently only have one SKS fob.

It looks like there can be 5 SKS fobs but only 4 RKE (non-SKS) fobs, *AND* the Toyota serves manual (DL section) says if you exceed those 4 it erases the older one and recycles that "slot", which might explain posts about people messing up their old fob while trying the chicken dance.

In theory, if you cycle the power ON/OFF 3 times for confirm mode (9 power button presses) instead of once for add mode (3 power button presses) the number of LOCK/UNLOCK cycles tells the number of "slots" (1-4, 5=0) used in the ECU. I will try it once the carpet cleaning is done so the driver seat can be reinstalled.

I also ran across a chicken dance like procedure to erase all the *OTHER* transponder key fobs where you insert and leave the old key fob in the slot after the 6th instead of 5th time and open and close the door 7 times instead of 6, that I want to look into.