AC issue

Were you using a 'mini-vci' cable and techstream to retrieve that DTC P0A80 ?

DTC P0A80 points towards a HV battery failure, were there any other codes (like P0A93) before you erased everything?

When was the last time you inspected or cleaned the HV battery fan?

When was the inverter coolant pump last replaced?

You can check the dealer service and recall history by running the VIN at : Welcome to Toyota Owners

 

Did you use the proper kind of "freon" for a hybrid system ?
That is, with the right kind of compressor oil in it ??

 

There is no "freon" that ships with the right kind of compressor oil in it, and using such a blend would be very bad for the AC system.

 

OK.....so let me re-phrase.

IF.....you properly evacuated the system, you also sucked most of the oil out of it too.
That means that you need to put oil back in it.....OF THE PROPER TYPE FOR A HYBRID SYSTEM.

Is that better ?

Why would having the proper oil IN the same can as refrigerant be a bad thing ??
If the ratio was right ??

 

@lech auto air conditionin may correct me, but I do not think pulling a vacuum on the system is likely to remove much of the oil; it isn't going to be slurped up to the service port in liquid form, and it won't start boiling out anywhere near the vacuum levels in Toyota manuals. (According to JB Industries, you have to get below 250 microns before the lightest components of the oil might start to boil out; they don't recommend going that low, because that changes the blend of the oil. Still certainly doesn't slurp it all out.)

 

Correct no slurping up oil action going on here. Since pulling vacuum well below 200 micron is a every day event on refrigeration so after vacuum decay it comes to a rest below 240 microns no pin issues will be happening at normal room temperature. Now it would be another story if you greatly increased the temperature Of the oil 100C 200+ C now at below 200 microns now we be cracking oil down to distillery levels to separate solvents and light esters.
No correction needed, just a little missing information

 

I have no personal skin in the game, can only report that the recommendation from JB Industries is to shoot for no lower than 250 micron if the compressor isn't isolated when the vacuum is pulled; possible separation of the oil components is the reason they give.

 

And back to the original discussion......IF you are in a situation where you NEED to evacuate and completely refill the system, there likely was a significant leak before that.
How do you KNOW or find out if there is any oil left in there......and how much ??
It often "leaks" out with the freon.

 

NO ! Absolutely not oil does not significantly come out with every leak. Unless it’s a massive puncture by a stone being thrown up on the condenser or an accident where a high side liquid side line gets sheared in half while the AC compressor was running it does not lose oil.

The little tiny oil spots that you see on condensers from refrigerant leaks think of one drop of oil and you leave it on a piece of wood or a piece of glass let it sit for several days and you’ll see that that one drop of oil has spread out into our circle three or 4 inches round. “Hello ??? McFly is anybody in there ?. It’s not even a measurable amount of oil loss when you have those oil stains. This is a situation of reading too much armchair engineer with no real world experience.

So when you don’t visually find a leak because you can’t find an oil stain because it was PAG oil So when you don’t visually find a leak because you can’t find an oil stain because it was PAG oil Or as an electric compressors it’s ESTER oil That washes off when it rains we’re going through heavy fog or a car wash then you have a clean condenser with no visual evidence.

This is why you always put in Tracer Line UV dye which has a carrier oil your quantity of amount injected will be 5 mL which is more than enough to make up for the few drops lost in the small oil stains that may have got washed away.

And there is a reason why I specifically mention the brand-name Tracerline UV dye. That gets installed in every vehicle whether it has a leak or not. Because there’s one thing I can guarantee and put in writing to every customer.“ I will guarantee your system will leak!”.

But the difference between somebody knowledgeable with experience and somebody who just reads with no experience pencil pusher phone operator would know that there is leaks that do not leak all the time. They are intermittent. Some leaks only leak when pressure is rising but do not leak at static pressure or when pressure is falling. Other leaks only leak when pressure is falling do not leak at any other time. Then there are the leaks that only leak when the vehicle is driving down the road vibrating and the lines are bouncing up and down with vibration and when the vehicle comes into your garage bay and stops while you’re going over it with a leak detector they stop leaking. Then you have leaks that only leak at a seam between rubber and metal that are pressure dependent and like a calibrated blow off valve will only leak at a certain given pressure completely and utterly open wide open released a vast amount of refrigerant at once and then as soon as the leak falls to a certain pressure completely turn off with no evidence of leak this is the pressure regulated leak. Then there is a leak that will not leak while the AC is an operation whether you drive it for one hour or 100 hours as soon as you come home and park your vehicle in the garage as the pressure and the temperature of the metal and rubber components are settling the leak will open up slowly up high on the system where there’s only vapor and no oil and no die and slowly release the entire contents down to zero without any oil or dye release. And that’s just one of many scenarios I think I could stop there.

This clearly sets the difference between an armchair warrior and a YouTube professor from somebody who’s in the real world and actually works every day on systems.

 

This should be interesting; that's one of Sam's stock put-downs too.

 

Well this discussion WAS started by an inexperienced "armchair mechanic" trying to fix his own system.

And the information that you supplied is pretty much EXACTLY why I don't recommend that amateurs try to fix complicated systems themselves. It often ends up worse instead of better.

I know what I DON'T know, which is why I seek out a professional when a complicated system on my equipment needs service.
And now I know a little bit more than before.......which just reinforces that I shouldn't be messing with it.