Recently I replaced noisy front hub assemblies and while I was at it, installed new disc brakes and rotors. Today I replaced rear hub assemblies, and looking at the rear drum brakes, shoes are looking thin. The drums are smooth (not glazed) and are very thick. How difficult is it to install new shoes? Thank you.
If you do it all the time, not hard. If you've never done it, don't the specialty tools (for release/install of springs), it can be daunting. I did it once years back swore I'd let the pros handle it in future lol. Definitely harder than working with disk brakes. Depends on your skill level mostly I guess.
It's easy! Pay a friend about $60 an axle to do it for you. I have 4 vehicles, and only one axle with drums. It's not hard.....just kinda tedious. Like @Mendel Leisk I've done it once....but probably will not do so again. If you decide to tackle it yourself, most auto parts stores will loan you the tools to do it with - especially if you buy their pads, .and as is true with everything else in life - PROBABLY including brain surgery and repacking a tent - there is a YouTube video showing you how to do it....step by step. Let us know what you decide!!! Good Luck!
If you are doing drum brakes occasionally then I would use the following tools (rather than purchasing specialty tools): i.) diagonal cutters (AKA "dykes"); ii.) slip joint -pliers; iii.) large (say 12" long) slotted screwdriver; iv.) latex gloves; and v.) Brakekleen (chemical for cleaning oil, and petroleum from brake surfaces). In the YT video referenced below, the presenter uses vise grips. I would instead recommend using the dykes for the spring between the two shoes. Similarly, the presenter uses needle nose pliers to remove the hold-down springs. I would instead recommend using the split joint pliers for the hold-down spring (holding each shoe to the backing plate). See: PS I have also posted pics of Harbor Freight dykes and slip joint pliers to make it easier for those first-timers. I usually use 6" dykes and 8" slip joint pliers. .
The bolt thread size for backing the drum off (if stuck) is M8x1.25. Above video mentions 12 mm, think that would be bolt head size (aka socket size).
Brake drums usually have threaded holes where a jam bolt is threaded into. Jam bolt contacts the axle flange and pushes drum off axle flange. Usually there are two holes. If there are two holes then screw the M8-1.25 bolts in equally for your Gen2 (to get the brake drum off).
I do have that from unsticking the old rotors. ydpplqbd, Thank you for the tool references and YT link. I've been collecting Prius tools for a while but have yet to acquire anything else recommended here. I'm thinking by the time I purchased all those implements, that might be half the labor cost of 1 wheel. If I had a backup vehicle I might try this. But I don't want to strand myself for lack of experience (my own). Thank you everyone. It looks like a visit to a brake shop is in my future.
I had to remove the drum to replace the hub assembly. Thankfully it wasn't stuck to the brake backplate.
I restrict myself to pulling off a brake drum, and maybe releasing the hold-down clips on the shoes, so it's easier to lube the contact points. @chapman was saying not to even bother with that, just wedge something in between shoe and backer plate, to create a gap.
