Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

If you look up the calibration number on your own and ask for that, it may increase the odds of the thing you want to happen happening.

The downside of that is the last time I asked for a reflash, they put in the exact minimum calibration number I had written down. I had written "or later" or something to that effect, but I might not have spelled it out quite clearly enough.

The way dealer shop time is scheduled, you can't necessarily assume they will be giving your request a whole lot of independent thought.

It would be nice to know more about just how the later Gen 3 valve differs from the earlier one, and then also whether the Gen 4 valve is like that one, or different again, and if so how.

 

Thank you for your in depth and consistent replies, where can I find the list of calibration numbers, I would be happy to do that. If i can get ahold of the right person at toyota who thinks what the swap is neat as hell.

Ill be honest, despite the EGR situation, I get a huge kick out of a swapped prius, a fun challenge although it does not fit your typical swap reasoning.

Just ordered a K&N filter since the car runs so much better without a filter. Hopefully it comes with a sticker I can put on the rear windscreen.

 

YES !!!!

 

Better than a car you can't drive!

 

Thank you! That's what I'm saying too haha. I can easily reconnect EGR and drive for 50 miles with performance peculiarities to get the car to pass emissions test anyways. Remember, switching wires back to stock cleared every code after a short amount of miles.


Anyone have a gen 3 EGR setup theywould be willing to mail to me in Salem MA? I can Venmo or PayPal. Send me a pm.

I may tinker around with some Frankenstein EGR situations.

 

It's alive!!!!

 

Let’s get that theory with the ECU flash as worthless info.

Toyota had two TSB’s concerning the EGR for the Gen 3 Prius:

May 30, 2013 - required changing the stepper motor assembly with a new improved one. Also using some electric tape to cover a zip tie from the harness.

May 31, 2016 - in addition to the new stepper motor assembly we then get the ECU flash.

This was Toyota’s temporary fix for rattle after cold soak.

All this was a Bandaid for a leaking headgasket and or clogged up oil rings from the Early Gen 3 motors (Don’t get me started with Pistons)









iPhone ?

 

Aha! T-SB-0075-13, for those following along at home. I hadn't spotted that one before. Good catch.

We have surprisingly little information about what changed between the -37110 and -37120 valve. People swap them and even get asked to please report the differences and aren't heard from again.

The only visual comparison I've seen is Mendel's:



Definitely taller, and I think Mendel's right about the wire harness mod. The existing electrical tape on the harness is cut to give a bit longer reach to plug in to the valve. The bit of added tape is just to make sure the stretched out section won't rub on the zip tie.

T-SB-0027-16, and because the revised valve made its own appearance 3 years earlier, it seems the firmware change is not something strictly required to drive the revised valve. Beyond that we don't know what the firmware change did.

Does this mean the cold soak rattle is an indication of a leaking head gasket or clogged oil rings?

I didn't realize the cause of the cold soak rattle had been definitively pinned down yet. Have I missed something?

 

I can't believe I scrapped mine. What a moron. Would have been excellent to put this one to rest.

Could I just switch stepper motors, looks like it's held on by two Phillips heads?

I would love for someone to send me an extra who did the swap and kept gen 3 parts around.

 

Let’s see if you can spot the difference, Boys and Girls



Edit: one on the left is the revised one

 

We tried switching stepper motors and it’s a ‘no go’ The magnet is completely different and the housing is more defined


iPhone ?

 

Well, if both parts were angled exactly the same, I would feel safer with my answer. But, I will go by what the photo seems to show. The part on the right is longer in lenght, but again, the angle of the photo suggests that.

 

Not longer in length, but by that pic you can see a difference


iPhone ?

 

Just for the record: in my pic above (the one with a thumb), I believe I've got the EGR valve sub-assembly reattached the wrong way 'round.

 

Longer in the direction of pintle travel, same as Mendel's paired photos showed.

But is there anything different about the pintle or the bore? Is the thread pitch on the shaft any different?

If they are to work with the same firmware, it is going to think 111 steps of the magnet rotor is the total range of motion for each valve. (Or whatever the number is, I think I remember 111.)

If they went to a steeper thread pitch, they could have the 111 rotor steps move the pintle a different distance.

What's the extra small hole in the mounting face of the old one, that is blanked off in the new one?

 

Winner! Winner! Chicken Dinner!

There is an extra small hole in the mounting face of the old one. It looks like a lubricating point for the spring shaft. Got some wd40 and sprayed the hole which made the shaft easier to push down because of the lubrication.


As for the thread points, nothing has changed in addition to the length of the shaft and pintle bore

 

iPhone ?

 

Wonder why blanking that off was an improvement....

 

\ I did a measurement from the EGR valve rear flange, to underside of the black cap, on my old version: roughly 2-3/8". Pic isn't that clear, just to show where/how I took the measurement:

 

Older (-37110) valve, pintle lift 6 mm:




Corrosion much? Mighty crusty in there:



Felt like it was binding somewhat on the magnet while tugging it apart. But then, it's a magnet, so it's hard to tell.

Couldn't bring myself to put it back together without decrustifying.

BTW, Lisle #62140 for the win with those Phillips housing screws. About a second for the first one, ½ second for the other one, like buttah.