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Prius HV battery

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by danielz000, Jul 20, 2018.

  1. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Hi all,

    Not sure if anyone can help me out here... Been doing a lot of reading but still not entirely clear on things...

    Basically, my mum was driving her Prius (100k 2005) the other day when a load of warning lights came on. She managed to get the car to where she was going (i believe it was in limp home mode) and then called the AA who said they believed there was a problem with the HV battery.

    The AA was unable to get the car started again, (no electric engine no ICE engine) and so towed her home 5 days later.

    I've got a rather old elm327 obd bluetooth adapter and just purchased torque pro. Using this i scanned for faults but torque came back saying no faults found despite there being a number of warning lights on the dash.

    Is this normal? It is possible my adapter can't read the HV battery codes?

    Using torque I managed to read the 14 blocks of batteries. All 14 had the same resistance (can't remember the figure). 13 of the blocks had a reading of 15.6 volts. 1 of the blocks was reading 14.3 volts. Would this suggest a single module has given up? Is 15.6 volts a reasonable reading for the other 13 pairs of modules?

    Unfortunately I was unable to create any load on the battery as I couldn't get it to start.

    I'm thinking to buy a replacement module on ebay and maybe 4 IMAX B6 chargers in an attempt to revive the battery... Can anyone suggest a decent seller?

    Also i found a mini vci and tech stream seller on amazon with same day delivery... Would this allow me to read faults on the prius that the elm327 doesn't? Is there anything I should know in advance about purchasing a mini vci?

    Lastly, is there any way for me to get the car started so I can move it on to the drive and test the battery voltages while they have a load on them?

    Thanks in advance for any advice

    Cheers

    Daniel
     
    #1 danielz000, Jul 20, 2018
  2. hchu1

    hchu1 Active Member

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    Check your 12v auxiliary battery. If it is the original one it needs to be replaced. The charge should be 12+, it feeds all the computers in the car. Check that the ground is solid and not lose or corroded as well as the positive contact.

    To diagnose the problems with the car you will need as least the mini-vci and techstream. Techstream is what the Toyota techs use. It will give you all the hybrid, generic, and subcodes.
     
    #2 hchu1, Jul 21, 2018
  3. Petrodollar

    Petrodollar Member

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    Here's a little information for when you buy a device to read Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

    There are two types of diagnostic devices to consider, an SAE J2534 interface and an OBD-II reader (OBD is On-Board Diagnostics).
    To use Toyota Techstream software, you need a device called an SAE J2534 interface or pass-through. Techstream gives you complete scanning and programming functionality, so it can read all codes and subcodes. Techstream software is Windows only, thus the need for a Windows notebook PC.
    For general code reading, you need a device called an OBD-II reader. OBD-II readers will read standard OBD-II codes but are more limited in the manufacturer specific codes they can read, and do not do programming.
    They both use the OBD-II connector in your car, but have completely different command sets.

    See this thread for details and links.
    OBD-II and SAE J2534 Tools List for PC, Smartphone, Tablet; Toyota centric, July 2018
    (https://priuschat.com/threads/obd-ii-and-sae-j2534-tools-list-for-pc-smartphone-tablet-toyota-centric-july-2018.197750)

    See post # 3 for a summary and recommendations. Then use post # 2 for links to the devices in the sections and numbers mentioned in the summary.

    SAE J2534 interface devices are in section I.

    For a low cost SAE J2534 device, look at a Mini VCI, number 5 ($35), 6 ($50), or 7 ($60).
    For a little higher cost, look at the VXDIAG VCX NANO series, numbers 3 and 4 ($80 - $90).
    (These come with the appropriate software).

    OBD-II readers are in section II.

    OBDLink LX and MX Bluetooth devices are highly recommended, number 1 ($50 and $80). They work with the Torque Pro and Hybrid Assistant Android apps ($5 and $0).
    ELM-327.EU ELM327 Bluetooth uses the genuine ELM327 v2.2 IC and is also highly recommended, number 2 ($57).

    Software is in section III.

    Toyota TIS software is available directly from Toyota for $65 for a 2 Day subscription
    Toyota Technical Information System (TIS) subscriptions have Professional Diagnostic and Security Professional levels, number 1 ($65 2 Day, $1295 1 Year).
    Both levels allow use of Techstream scantool software, all available ECU calibration files, and Identifix Direct-Hit, plus access to the technical information library.
    Security Professional adds access to vehicle security information, including key codes and immobilizer/smart reset capability. (Before you can purchase this subscription level, you must be a current member of the NASTF Vehicle Security Professional Registry).

    Torque Pro, number 3 ($5) and Hybrid Assistant, number 4 ($0), both for Android, are very popular.
    Torque Pro has a custom Parameter ID (PID) editor.
     
    #3 Petrodollar, Jul 21, 2018
  4. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Brilliant information guys. Thank you. I'll read this all tomorrow and update accordingly.

    The 12v is currently on charge as it was reading 11.6. Hopefully once it's charged I might be able to get some life out of the car.

    I've had a cheap mini vci delivered from amazon today. It was only 20 quid so if it's no good I'll follow the links provided and order something decent.

    Thanks again.

    Dan
     
    #4 danielz000, Jul 21, 2018
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  5. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Hi all,

    I managed to install techstream on an XP VM machine and connected to the car.

    2 DTCs stand out...

    P0A0D and C1241

    Looking at the first code it seems its to do with the HV battery connector but I haven't touched this... Although the AA mechanic might of (i wasn't there).

    Is there anything else that could cause this code? Do I need HV safety gloves to remove this plug and try to reconnect it?

    Anything else I should be looking at before trying to remove the HV battery?

    I think the other code is to do with the 12v battery. It's about 5 years old and it appears halfrauds fitted an incorrect battery some how sawing some plastic panelling off.

    Anyway, once again, thank you in advance for any advice.

    Cheers

    Daniel
     
    #5 danielz000, Jul 22, 2018
  6. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Hi all,

    So after finding that the AA mechanic had screwed about with the safety plug and not replaced it properly, i put it back correctly and cleared all the fault codes.

    I'm now getting the following faults

    P0A80, P3014 and P3000

    I guess this confirms a fault with the 4th pair of modules in the HV battery right?

    Additionally, I can see pair 4's voltage jumping up to above 17v when the battery is charging and down to 14 volts when idle. I think it may have dropped below 14 when under load.

    I've ordered a refurbished battery module from ebay and plan to replace the faulty module.

    Will buying 2 of these 2 pack balance chargers (for 4 chargers) from ebay be suitable for reconditioning the 28 modules?

    Item number 282923033079 (i can't post links)

    I'm happy to throw a bit of time and money at this issue in an attempt to avoid buying a refurbished battery from Toyota but if this doesn't work I'll probably look at sourcing a refurbished battery from them.

    Cheers

    Dan
     
    #6 danielz000, Jul 22, 2018
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  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    sorry you are not getting any response yet. you would be well advised to read through some of the battery rebuilding threads, there's a lot to learn. sounds like you're on the right track though, all the best!(y)
     
    #7 bisco, Jul 22, 2018
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  8. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Block 4 is on its way out:(.

    It will likely be one of the 2 modules in block 4 you’ll find as you’re opportunity.

    Sounds like you are considering rebuilding yourself and doing it properly :).

    I have the Prolong equipment from Hybrid Automotive and it helps ensure the battery is balanced ;):

    http://www.hybridautomotive.com

    I’ve helped rebuild 2 packs with this setup and share the equipment with another member where everyone has a harness. If you are considering equipment for your situation, I’d look at that:).

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).
     
    #8 Raytheeagle, Jul 22, 2018
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  9. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Thanks Bisco. I'm looking through the threads now hoping to find the right kind of charger.

    Thank you too Ray. I've come across that website a couple of times in my searching but unfortunately it's an American website and I'm in the UK.

    It's 1:30am here now so I'm gonna catch some shut eye for now and read through some more threads tomorrow. Hopefully I'll find a suitable balance charger in the UK tomorrow.

    Thanks again guys

    Dan
     
    #9 danielz000, Jul 22, 2018
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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    While you are in the UK, they may ship to you:).

    When you awake tomorrow, might be worth checking with them ;).

    Always good to have options (y).
     
    #10 Raytheeagle, Jul 22, 2018
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  11. Petrodollar

    Petrodollar Member

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    #11 Petrodollar, Jul 23, 2018
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  12. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Thank you. I'll give them a read if i haven't already :)
     
    #12 danielz000, Jul 23, 2018
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  13. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Hey guys,

    I went with a skyrc q200 charger as it was a lot cheaper than the hybrid charger and I didn't want to spend too much on a car only worth £4000. Also it saved on shipping time.

    Looking at the other threads am I fair to assume a decent cycle of the batteries would be as follows :

    DISCHARGE / CHARGE
    5A CHARGE RATE
    0.6A DISCHARGE
    DISCHARGE TO 1V / CELL (6V)
    3 CYCLES
    7500ma MAXIMUM CHARGE

    It doesn't appear to allow me to set the maximum voltage for the charge.

    Does anyone have any experience of using the q200? It seems a bit muddled during configuration and I swear it losing the settings (that might just be me button bashing though)

    Cheers again

    Dan
     
    #13 danielz000, Jul 27, 2018
  14. danielz000

    danielz000 Junior Member

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    Hi all

    I went with a 0.7a discharge and a 7200mah charge limit.

    Unfortunately when i checked the charger this morning all 4 batteries had hit the charge limit and switched off. I couldn't see any information about the charge and discharge cycles either...

    Now I'm pretty sure the firmware, android app and PC app for the Q200 are all screwy even though the hardware seems very capable.

    So my questions, if anyone can help are...

    1) is it possible that the batteries took more than a 7200mah charge?

    2) is it possible the firmware added up the charges and failed on the second charge?

    3) what's the maximum charge a module can hold?

    Cheers again

    Dan
     
    #14 danielz000, Jul 28, 2018
  15. Nick Kasparidis

    Nick Kasparidis New Member

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    Hello Dan,
    Without having a deep knowledge on this, I think each module has a capacity of 6500mah, which can be confirmed by the specs of the manufacturer too, considering nominal voltage of 7.2V (1.2V per cell) and 28 moduyles. 6500mah x 7.2V = 48.6wh. 48.6wh x 28 modules = 1360.8wh = 1.36kWh.
    I know the answer may be a bit late for you, but just got a prius and signed up in this forum. If you are still around I have a question about the Q200 charger you are using. When you charge it at 5A, what voltage is displayed by the charger? I am charging mine at 3A, and the voltage goes all the way up to 14V which I dont think is healthy.

    Thanks
    Nick
     
    #15 Nick Kasparidis, Apr 20, 2020
  16. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Nick,

    What size wire are you using to connect the charger to the module? How are you connecting it to the module?
     
    #16 TMR-JWAP, Apr 20, 2020
  17. Nick Kasparidis

    Nick Kasparidis New Member

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    I actually figured it out yesterday night. You are bang on TMR-JWAP, the cables were to blame. They are not rated, but they look quite thin. I would guess AWG of 20+ and possible a high 20s number. I borrowed some AWG 16 cables from work, and the voltage dropped to normal levels, plus they dont get that hot.
     
    #17 Nick Kasparidis, Apr 21, 2020
  18. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    16 gauge will work fine. I use 16 gauge speaker wire for convenience.
     
    #18 TMR-JWAP, Apr 21, 2020
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