Spin on oil filter

Nope, believe I got it wrong, again:

Cartridge: permanent housing, filter element only replaced.
Cannister: aka spin-on, filter element and housing are bonded together, everything replaced.

It's hopeless, I'll never remember.

 

I remember people using this type of filter in the 1960's

 

I have my order in, through Amayama:

(1)-15609-37060 (Oil Filter Bracket Assembly - Newer Revision) - $52.06 (CDN)
(2)-96723-24020 (O-Ring) - $3.38 (CDN, in total)
(1)-90904-04006 (Union, for Oil Filter) - $8.35 (CDN)

Also have a couple of wiper blade inserts in the order. Shipping for everything: $35.56 (CDN)

There's 4 bolts for the Oil Filter Bracket, but no need to replace: they're the same as OEM bracket bolts. Repair Manual recommends 19 foot/pounds torque for those, with clean/dry threads.

For the "union", the bit that screws into the bracket, and then the oil filter is screwed onto it, I haven't been able to find a torque value yet. A 12 mm hex Allen key style socket is required. Maybe 20 foot/pounds, with clean/dry threads?< Possibly 18 ft/lb, researching more. Found that value in a couple of places now.

The new oil filter info:

(1)-90915-10003 (Oil Filter) (I will just purchase from local dealership.) Torque value is 13 foot/pounds). Lube the gasket with new motor oil. Threads will be oily. (See post #17)

The above superseded by:

(1)-90915-YZZF2 (Oil Filter)

Note: At McGeorge Toyota Parts the above filter part number is listed for both the 2008 and 2018 model year Prius.

The two styles of oil filter bracket are shown on this page (for 2018 model year Prius):

Buy oil filter for Toyota Prius XW50 (09.2015 - 11.2018) - Amayama

 

Well, Amayama has assembled the order, will be shipping in a couple of business days, and...: I'm not 100% sure lol, that "15609-37060 (Oil Filter Bracket Assembly" is indeed the spin-on style oil filter bracket. I'm maybe 80% sure. There are myriad parts diagrams, parts number supersessions, ugh...

Here's a picture that seems promising:

トヨタ(純正) オイルフィルター ブラケット のパーツレビュー | ウィッシュ(きーしん) | みんカラ

@Elektroingenieur can you shed some light!

 

I think I'm ok. @Elektroingenieur 's posting of very helpful info (on page 1):

Spin on oil filter | PriusChat

Quote from above link (bold emphasis added):

 

Also, 15609-37060 has been superseded by 15609-0T070, according to the Toyota parts websites. I believe this means the same physical item, just new part number. Or at least, the same functionality.

 

Google translation of the first few (Japanese) paragraphs of the above page, yields this:

The cartridge type has been changed from a cartridge type to a filter type in order to simplify oil element replacement.

The oil element is cartridge type in almost all models of 20 series WISH, but the engine mounted on the car shipped near the end of production has been changed to a filter type element.

The appearance of the filter bracket, mounting bolt position, oil passage hole diameter and position are all the same. Only the element mounting part has been changed, so it can be replaced with a pump.

Oil filter bracket ： 15609-37060
Oil filter Union ： 90904-04006
O-ring: 96723-24020 × 2

 

With shipping from the UAE, the total is about 20% less than the least expensive options I can find state side for the main parts. Would also be interested to hear if anyone has had issues with duty when taking delivery in the states, etc. Besides Japan and UAE, what other countries does Amayama fulfill and ship parts from?

Could someone use the existing old bracket and potentially retrofit the union for a canister filter?

What is the current status on your shipment, has the slow boat docked already?

 

It arrived in Vancouver before the advent of the new year, delivery "imminent". Situation normal...

All I've seen for source countries so far is UAE and Japan.

 

Package arrived, all good. No sales tax or duty.

Anyone know or venture a guess at the torque value for the "union". I'm thinking 19 ft/lbs, if only for consistancy, the same as the housing bolts.Torque value for the filter is 13, and the filter side of the union is a smaller thread (24 vs 19 mm).

Ah, the Armstrong page recommends 20 foot/pounds, sounds good:

The 2016+ Toyota 2zr Engine oil filter conversion - Armstrong Family Blog

 

I bought those bracketed calipers for my iQ rear disc conversion. It's actually the last big ticket item I needed. But I do not know how to retrofit because the US techstream only deals with drums in the rear. If I get a Toyota EU techstream subscription and can find the union bolt torque spec I'll let you know...

moto g(7) power ?

 

@Mendel Leisk

Could you please take some side by sides of the old/new brackets, hopefully with a couple of angles.

Curious if there would be a way to retrofit the existing cartridge style bracket and add a union for the filter.

 

Won't work. Any adapter will cost more than the complete replacement and won't work as good as the full replacement.

 

Unless you're an automotive engineer with great fabrication skills I don't see how you could beat the deal from Amayama....

moto g(7) power ?

 

Just had the 2nd oil change with ToyotaCare and asked for the old filter. I should have done that with the first change! I will be running a magnet and then, for the aluminum, I'll be scraping the filter material to inspect. I'm curious if there's anything floatin around. I have the canister on my Japanese-made 3. It shipped to the dealer in late November. Glad to have it as it will greatly simplify things.

As for the oil... Warren Distribution (Amazon Basics, Wal-Mart Super Tech, Mag1 and a myriad of others...) makes Kirkland/Costco's 0W-20 full synthetic. Costco doesn't carry this particular weight in-store (at least in Southern California, they only carry the 5W-30). Between January 16-19, 2020, The price is $24.99 for 10 quarts (2 x 5-quart bottles). The regular price is $29.99. Price includes shipping to the continental US.

Shelf life is 5 years if you plan on loading up. The car is seeing about 365 miles/week. My plan is to change at higher frequency than manufacturer recommendations because the manufacturer's recommendation is based on Federally-mandated standards. It is no longer about the long life of a vehicle, it is all about EPA pollution worries by bureaucrats who have a religious-like furor. These are the same people that forced the need to use CVTs with all of the MPG standards. How many cars have had crappy CVTs that have generated more waste by leading to ruined cars in junk yards? How many pre-2000s Nissans and Subarus (heck, Toyotas too) are still on the road? Exactly my point. My old 98 Subaru Outback is still on the road with its second owner at over 330k miles. My 11 Outback has a blown head gasket and bad CVT at 94k. The extension of the CVT warranty is not covering it if running rough, only failure).

 

Just did the swap, in conjunction with spring oil change. It went pretty easy, helped a lot that I'd taken the front/right wheel off, and flexed back the inner plastic fender liner a bit.

I found the O-rings a little oversized for the grooves they push into. Not really, just enough that you really needed to "corral" them with your fingers, pressing them in. Maybe that's by design? Anyone else concur?

A first for me: I opted to refill the oil with the car up, run the engine a bit. Everything looked tight, didn't notice any oil leaks.

The spin-on filters appear to be pre-lubed, have a plastic shield over the gasket end and a clear gel applied to the end gasket. Guess that negates the need to apply motor oil?

I used 19 foot pounds for the bracket bolts (per Repair Manual), 20 foot pounds for the "union" (threaded connector in the middle) (torque value as debated on the Armstrong Family blog), and 13 foot pounds for the oil filter (per 4th gen Repair Manual). Printed on the box the filter came in, and on the filter itsel, it recommends 3/4 turn past first contact. I found the 13 foot pounds worked out about the same.

 

Were you able to get side by side photos of the brackets?

 

Ah no I didn't. I would say, the new one has a "beak", roughly at 6 o'clock. Not sure of the purpose, to focus the drip?

 

I didn't change the original "o" rings, as they were in good shape.

It's been over a year, since I made the conversion; no leaks.

Since I live in a low corrosion environment, I sold the old cartridge adapter with the new "o" rings, a new filter cartridge, and the spare cap that I had on eBay. So the conversion cost me less than $100 total.

 

A few Priuschatters have postulated that stuck-on oil filters can be due to the retainer clip. I put the old oil fillter assembly together (without an oil ring) and did a little video, how "much" resistance that clip puts up: