Thanks for the link. I read AHetaFan measured that on a lithium battery. I can't imagine that kind of current into the stock AGM. moto g(7) power ?
Good catch. And I haven't clamp-metered the charging current on my Gen 3 with the factory battery. I have done so on a Gen 2 with the factory battery and its lower 13.8 charging voltage, and not seen it dump more than 8 amps even into a very low battery. It's still the case that Gen 3's charging voltage is more like 14.7, and that extra volt can make a substantial difference in the current supplied to a 12 volt battery.
With that Gen2 charge rate, a 10 mile drive taking about 15 minutes, would put only 2 Ah into the battery, tiny compared to a full charge that the OP thought he was getting. If the Gen3's higher voltage produces double to triple the charge rate, that is a great help, but still leaves the battery fairly low after just 15 minutes, far from full. And somewhere in the charge cycle, when the battery is up to some level (I don't know just how much), the Gen3's charging voltage does step down, so a true full charge would still takes a long time. Probably longer than anyone's daily commute, if the goal is to get a full charge in just one commute cycle.
Anyone ever gone out in the morning, popped the hood from the passenger side and checked the charge on the 12V and found it to be at 100%? I've tried a few times. Never anywhere near 100% and I wouldn't expect that. I checked mine yesterday after it sat for a few days and it was 50% according to the display on my charger. Started right up!
Instructions say to measure voltage from the battery terminals only. The under hood jump points are not an option. I assume there’s a logical reason why, but I wouldn’t use that under hood value.
i have done tha, but don't have any equipment to measure percent, just voltage idk if it's linear though. wouldn't 50% be 6.5 volts?
It isn't linear. 50% is something like 12.2V for a flooded battery like in most cars and it's about 12.3V in an AGM. 11.8 volts is 0% for either. 100% is 12.7-12.8. That's according to this chart. Battery voltage and state of charge - Energy Matters It's good to remember, though, that those charts are just guestmations. I see a lot of them posted here and they are useful, but only as a rule of thumb, not as a precise measurement. Actual SOC percentage is much more complex involving specific gravity, open circuit or with a load (and how much load), temperature, number of cells, and so on. For example, what my battery charger interpreted as 50% was 12.34 volts. Closer to 70% according to the chart I qouted. Still not even close to 100% but obviously more than enough to do its job. Edit to add: This article is pretty informative and easy to read. Battery State-Of-Charge Chart | 12 Volt Battery Voltage & Specific Gravity
My TPMS would activate AFTER the tire was flat. Have had 4 flats with my Advanced!! No warning beep; far too late with very tiny visual warning. This is a critical problem (NO SPARE TIRE!) that demands correction. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app. AChoiredTaste.com
Fortunately, getting a flat fixed isn't a big deal. I was able to redeem road-hazard coverage... even during stay-at-home. Got a replacement, rather than a patch.
The only correction you can do is to not buy a car sans spare*. This keeps you in the pink, and might wake up the manufacturers, if it catches on. * Not exactly true, but I draw the line at dropping $30K for a new car, and THEN having to cobble together all the missing stuff. I'm sure To
So, the flat tire that I experienced was in my snow tire which is on rims sans TPMS. So no warning :-( I used the concoction that was part of the emergency tire repair kit from Toyota. I must say that whatever sealant is in the small bottle from Toyota did plug the leak. I had bought the snow tires from BJ's, so I had the BJ's tire center take a look at it for damage. They cannot detect any leak at this point, so I am sort of out of luck. In fact, I had the winter tires swapped out and summer tires installed today. To come back to the entire saga, the 12V battery was definitely impacted by the process of pumping the sealant and air into the flat tire keeping the car in On mode as opposed to Ready mode. This triggered the Check Engine light. I got a jump from AAA and dropped the car off to the Toyota dealership. They found nothing wrong other than worn brakes, but that is a different thread :-( I agree that not having a spare tire is a significant downside.
Do you mean "no warning" or "constant warning?" It seems to me that the only "downside" was that your 12V battery went flat. The tire seemed to come out okay.
I have noticed that the TPMS warning is a hit and miss. The reason is that my summer tires with TPMS are in my garage. When I start my car, the system must detect them and the TPMS does not warn me. Usually after a 15-20 minute ride I am warned via TPMS. So, I do not pay attention to the TPMS when I have winter tires. The downside is that the small bottle of sealant from Toyota costs ~ $100, almost the same ballpark as a tire sans balancing and mounting.
Every Toyota survey submitted should include a line "please make a spare tyre available as an accessory if the manufacturer decides not to include it as standard equipment for fuel economy purposes"
I recall Honda did just that with an automatic Fit. The stick shift version did have the spare, and for a bit over $200 you could add it to the automatic. I thought that was usury lol. At least the swap was very simple: Toyota seems to burning their bridges on the spare though: even where it is possible, it involves well over a grand to swap all the pieces involved. And the plugins: no chance.
@JTEM your experience has me thinking: if you have a flat, and use sealant, and it's effective, it can subsequently very difficult for the tire place to find the leak. They're relying on telltale soap bubbles from the leak, and there won't be any. For a while... Pretty much toasts the tire?