cold start knock/rattle fixed

The big question: what the dfferences are. Could be trivial, some manufacturing variation. Or a change in the performance?

 

Back to post #3? If it's the head gasket, there are cheaper options than the dealership, goes without saying I guess.

 

Trade it off......before it's to late.....

 

Is there any way to easily see the build up and all without really taking the car apart? I ask, since I want to see and take pics before going to a stealership and also for knowing how bad it is and how bad my spark plugs are (even though they “should” be okay until 130k).

How long does it take change coolant was doing the egr system vs without egr system done? Ditto for the spark plugs?

Since EGR is covered by bulletin, would they go on ahead and change the coolant and spark plugs as part of the covered bulletin for “free”?

Mileage about 96k
2013 Prius v
Average mpg is low to mid-30’s

P.S. I look forward to hearing what happened at the stealership on your wife’s and your Prius.

 

Fairly easy, just inspecting the EGR pipe. The cooler will likely be worse, but still gives you some idea:

I'm not quite understanding. I "think" you're saying the coolant needs to be changed if you're going to do a full EGR cleaning? That's not the case:

1. The intake manifold clean requires the throttle body to be disconnected and lifted off, but (contrary to the videos) this can be done WITHOUT disconnecting any coolant hoses. Just lift the throttle body off, tie it to the inverter or whatever, without pulling off hoses, they have enough reach.

2. For the full EGR clean yes you do need to disconnect hoses to the EGR cooler. but if you drain a couple of quarts (into a clean container) from the radiator before starting, you drop the coolant level completely below the EGR system. When lifting the EGR cooler up and off, just don't tip it: there's an ounce or two of trapped coolant at the lower back corner; add that to the previous drain.

When everything is reassembled, pour the coolant back into the reservoir. While doing this, leave the the coolant bleed bolt open (if equipped), and if not leave a top hose off the EGR cooler until coolant starts to come out, then quickly push the hose back on.

Again, not quite following. Are you thinking because you've removed the wipers and cowl better replace the spark plugs. I wouldn't.

Put such thoughts out of your mind. Dealerships are very unlikely to even accomplish the intake or EGR cleaning. Whatever they do will likely be piecemeal, involve lots of expensive parts, and leave the job half done. They certainly will not do gratis plugs and coolant. Read up, watch the @NutzAboutBolts videos (multiple times), get the tools, DIY. Anything you're stuck on, post questions.

 

Trade it in on a non GEN 3.............................

 

That’s cutting off your nose to spite your face. Two years ago yesterday I bought my then 209k mile Gen 3. Since July of 2018, when I did the first published Gen 4 shortblock swap, it has required nothing except oil changes. I’m now at 232k and even after $1600 in parts, I am still money ahead from the 16 mpg CVPI I was driving.

And I’d do it all over again. No regrets.

 

Guess I din't read your post...I thought you bought it new or low miles.
I still wouldn't do it again.. I bought a hybrid for the heck of it....(194,000) didn't spend much..... 250,000 still runs ok....
But new traction battery, inverter, water pump, master cylinder and pump, plugged EGR System and the tani needs replaced (dreaded whine)
Body and interior in excellent condition. Gas $1.97 or less here.
I put almost 60,000 miles on in 19 months.
Plus I have two other toyotas that have many more miles all original but one radiator two water pumps and a couple of timing belts.
Been driving for 48 years and have never had a blown head gasket or motor.

 

or you could just ignore my post............. I don't worship cars....or the manufactures...just a way to get somewhere.... I don't love my car....... I save that for my girlfriend.

 

Are you sure you not low on water. If not head gasket must be electronic. Hope it's not the ECU. Luckily I haven't had this problem.

 

You cleaned the intake manifold too?

 

A leakdown test is the only way you can confirm. Do you have access to an air compressor?

 

A quick leak down test, if you don't have leak down gauge set, but do have compression tester with M14 adapter, would be to use the compression tester hose with valve removed, pressure up a cylinder (at TDC of compression stroke), and see if it holds pressure, and where it might be leaking. Possibilities: coolant reservoir, intake, dipstick tube, exhaust pipe and the seam between head and block.