P0A9E Code after battery rebuild

Recheck your work and in particular, check the temperature sensors and/or the wiring harness.

 

... or a broken sense wire.

 

I think the smallest unit is the no. 2 wireframe. You certainly do not need to buy a whole battery,

 

Is the battery grounded properly?

 

That is just a general "You got an isolation fault somewhere in the hybrid system". You need to cycle the car two or three more times at which time you should see a second sub-code (611-614) that will pinpoint the sub-system the ECU thinks has the problem.

612 means the fault is in the HV (hybrid vehicle) battery.

 

Module 1 @ 8.06 V might be higher than the other 26 modules but is well within range. Module #2 (second module in block 1, I presume) is toast, maybe. It is around the 1.2 V difference of the others which would indicate one cell within it is dead. It should become more obvious if you were to do some charge/discharge cycles on all of the modules.

If you haven't already come across the information, the image below shows how the blocks and modules are counted consistent with how Techstream and other ODB tools report it:




BTW, what you are calling cells are modules. A module contains 6 cells each of which is a nominal 1.2 V.

Hope this helps.

 

The cheapest, but takes more time (I guess everybody has plenty of that at the moment), is to purchase an RC (remote control) car charger that can do NiMH (use the Advanced Search options (click the "More ..." button)) to find out what is currently available. There are 4-channel chargers that allow you to charge 4 modules at a time. One member who is a hobby battery rebuilder has 7 4-ch chargers so he can do the whole pack at once. (Less cost-effective for most) The RC hobby charger is also a better option for the matching I will talk about below.

The only other option is to buy a grid charger like the Hybrid Automotive Prolong Charger/discharger (search this site for more info) which is more expensive but will do the job quicker. The added benefit is you can reuse the kit periodically to keep the battery in a good state for longer. The downside is if the modules you installed are not a good match you will be pulling the battery out and disassembling it again.

Not sure what you are asking here.

Make sure you recondition these as well to get an idea of their voltage and capacity by doing a 3 cycle discharge/charge regime followed by a final charge to full at a low current (350 mA) until the voltage tops out and remains stable for 4-6 hours. This can be done with an RC hobby charger. Perform this process on each of your existing modules, too.

You will need to work out the capacity of each module so that you can better match the replacement using the hobby charger or by doing a load test after you have reconditioned it (as above). A simple load tester and process can be seen here

If you haven't purchased any replacement modules @ericbecky or @jeff652 can help with matching and Eric is always happy to chat on the phone to help out folk here.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

 

I couldn't say from this distance, and not being there to see what happened. But if you follow the above process, it will become obvious.

 

See the link in my post #16.

I also meant to say, you have some reading to do to get to grips with what needs to be done.

Be very methodical, Don't rush it, and keep records. You should come out on the other side.