I have the 2010 Prius III for 3 months now. Just realize my front passenger window doesn't roll up completely. Rolling down is fine. It is when I do the Auto Roll up to have it completely shut tight that is causing the problem. The window will roll up half-way then come back down. It will not go pass the half-way point. To close the window, I will have to manually and slowly roll up the window. And I just had my windows tinted 2 days ago. Does anyone come across this issue or has it issue been posted elsewhere ?
Hello there! I have similar issue with passenger window (no tint shop or so), if you pull the button for a short move (passenger door button) it will do full opposite function-rolling down completely. I want to shut the window (opened 2") from driver´s door button, but it rolled down to a half or so. I have to give it a small amount uf pulls to shut it properly. Any ideas?
The window is designed to auto-reverse when going up if it gets sufficient resistance that suggests an obstruction of some sort. When that happens, you can "trick" the window into going up by short pulses of "up" command. This would be true no matter if you were using the window door command or the driver's door command for the window. Does that meet your symptoms?
It might need to "relearn" auto-up. Try this: 1. Run it all the way down. 2. Run it all the way up, pulling steadily up on the lever. 3. When it's up, continue to hold, for at least 2 seconds more. Hopefully that will relearn the auto-up function. (The step by step is the owner's manual, somewhere...)
Now a days Electric windows are not just a simple switch controlling a motor. They are controlled through a logic board sensing electrical spike that tell the motor to either stop or go. Mendel’s suggestion is good, researched information and will most likely be the solution. However, if it proves to be ineffective, you may have to dig deeper with the help of someone who has an understanding of the electrical system. Good luck and I hope it (Mendel's info) works. BTW, have you recently had the battery disconnected or replace recently ? When the 12v battery is disconnected it can disturb the window logic memory.
Good point about the 12 volt disconnect. Our car has had several 12 volt disconnects in recent months, hasn't needed relearn, but I wouldn't doubt that's only cus the default parameters were sufficient.
mine was disconnected for two months, no window issue, but lost trip meter numbers would it be only one window?
Could be any that have auto-up. Either of the fronts for sure, and I forget if the rears have it too.
One thing to keep in mind when diagnosing window issues -- the power window circuit is always hot and interrupts ground for switching.
They use a lot of water to install window tint. Did they cover the window switches? If not, they may have gotten water in the switches... I've never had the switch assembly out, are they 4 separate switches, or or one piece? If they are separate, you can switch 2, and if the problem doesn't change and the other window functions correctly, you've removed a switch problem.
I really needed to charge my battery recently(i did not close drivers door properly and that tiny door bulb drained battery-it was freezing during the night and day, and while disconnecting it with frozen fingers i sent some 4 letter words to japan but the problem occured a bit sooner. Gonna try Mendel´s advice.
